Nikon MD-4 Motor

DannyC71 · Sep 11, 2024

I recently picked up an MD-4 Motor for my F3, and it appears to be dead. All the contacts look very clean and I put fresh batteries in according to the diagrams in the battery holder. But, nothing. I press the button for the battery check and neither of the LED lights illuminate. I saw a video that sometimes it can be luck of the draw when it comes to the battery holder being properly seeded (seeted?). So if anyone knows of any other potential fixes I would greatly appreciate hearing them, even if I need a particular battery, but it looks like normal AA's should work.

BrianShaw · Sep 11, 2024

When my MD-4 battery holder became flaky in terms of properly seating, I just replaced it. Problem solved. You should be able to press in the holder to verify if that’s your problem or not.

DannyC71 · Sep 11, 2024

I did try that and nothing, so I guess it's return and replace. Thanks.

DannyC71 · Sep 20, 2024

Got a new one and it works!

RalphLambrecht · Sep 21, 2024

DannyC71 said:
Got a new one and it works!

happy for you but still wondering if a motor drive is really a useful accessory.

MFstooges · Sep 21, 2024

RalphLambrecht said:
happy for you but still wondering if a motor drive is really a useful accessory.

Maybe not useful if you can wind 5 frames in a second while keeping on the composition

forest bagger · Sep 21, 2024

DannyC71 said:
I recently picked up an MD-4 Motor for my F3, and it appears to be dead. All the contacts look very clean and I put fresh batteries in according to the diagrams in the battery holder. But, nothing.

Maybe you should read the threads of Andreas Thaler, who repaired this and other motor drives in his collection.

rulnacco · Sep 27, 2024

RalphLambrecht said:
happy for you but still wondering if a motor drive is really a useful accessory.

Well, I do find my MD-4 useful on my F3. Despite its size, which I thought initially would make the camera unwieldy (I bought one because it was only a little more than free), it actually balances the F3 quite nicely. I don't set it on continuous, certainly--but even in single-shot mode, I find it very useful as I can, after the briefest of mirror up blackouts, keep my mind (and the camera) focused on the composition, while moving just slightly to improve it, if that strikes me as a good thing. And it does make rewinding fast and efficient.

The nice thing is, working MD-4s are silly cheap, and using one makes the camera suitable for slightly different shooting situations than shooting it bare. It gives a different feel to the experience--and bottom line, shooting with one is actually *fun*. Which should, really, be the whole point of shooting old pro cameras that you can buy for a pittance nowadays and enjoy fully. If you don't like it, or don't want to use it in a particular situation, you can just take it off, no harm whatsoever done.

Chan Tran · Sep 27, 2024

RalphLambrecht said:
happy for you but still wondering if a motor drive is really a useful accessory.

I dunno but I bought the F3 because I wanted a 5fps motor drive (I still want a 5fps motor drive today, no more though). I had the F2AS and at the time I didn't like the F3 but the MD-2/MB-1 motor drive and battery pack set was $800. The F3HP body and the MD-4 combined was $700. So I bought the F3 for the motor drive. Back then I always used the motor drive. Only recently I got a nice burgundy never ready case for the F3 so I use it without the motor drive.

mshchem · Sep 27, 2024

Once you have the motor then you'll need the firing rate gizmo, and then maybe the 250 exposure film back, maybe radio control, AC-DC converter. Then all modified for use in zero G. I love this stuff.

mshchem · Sep 27, 2024

Chan Tran said:
I dunno but I bought the F3 because I wanted a 5fps motor drive (I still want a 5fps motor drive today, no more though). I had the F2AS and at the time I didn't like the F3 but the MD-2/MB-1 motor drive and battery pack set was $800. The F3HP body and the MD-4 combined was $700. So I bought the F3 for the motor drive. Back then I always used the motor drive. Only recently I got a nice burgundy never ready case for the F3 so I use it without the motor drive.

Those are pretty nice cases.

Kino · Sep 27, 2024

It's usefull to unnerve complacent civilians blocking the view.

A quick burst of 5 to 10 frames sends them scattering...

abruzzi · Sep 27, 2024

Kino said:
It's usefull to unnerve complacent civilians blocking the view.

A quick burst of 5 to 10 frames sends them scattering...

Thats an expensive lesson (unless its not loaded.)

Kino · Sep 27, 2024

abruzzi said:
Thats an expensive lesson (unless its not loaded.)

Unloaded, of course!

mshchem · Sep 28, 2024

Kino said:
Unloaded, of course!

Carry the big Nikon motor to clear out the tourists then make the actual photo with a Pentax 17

Chan Tran · Sep 28, 2024

Kino said:
It's usefull to unnerve complacent civilians blocking the view.

A quick burst of 5 to 10 frames sends them scattering...

Now that a DSLR can do 10fps or more but some how the sound doesn't have the same effect. The new mirrorless can do 20fps and more but no sound. Fake sound don't count.

fstop · Oct 4, 2024

Chan Tran said:
Now that a DSLR can do 10fps or more but some how the sound doesn't have the same effect. The new mirrorless can do 20fps and more but no sound. Fake sound don't count.

Its like cars that have engine sounds played through the speakers.

Andreas Thaler · Oct 13, 2024

DannyC71 said:
I recently picked up an MD-4 Motor for my F3, and it appears to be dead. All the contacts look very clean and I put fresh batteries in according to the diagrams in the battery holder. But, nothing. I press the button for the battery check and neither of the LED lights illuminate. I saw a video that sometimes it can be luck of the draw when it comes to the battery holder being properly seeded (seeted?). So if anyone knows of any other potential fixes I would greatly appreciate hearing them, even if I need a particular battery, but it looks like normal AA's should work.

If the two control LEDs for the battery status, among other things, do not light up, it could be that batteries have leaked at some point, the battery compartment was cleaned but the leaked electrolyte got behind the battery contacts. There is some electronics built in there with contacts that could be damaged.

Front of the battery contact plate (removed, please ignore the arrow).

Back, the arrow points to a cooroded contact, damaged by battery electrolyt (rechargeables). Also other parts are affected.

Otherwise, I would check the contacts on the battery holder carefully; if there is oxidation here, the current will no longer flow. The eight AA batteries are connected in series and if one contact fails, the current „sticks“.

You can test the function with a multimeter. With fresh AA batteries, there should be over 12 volts at the battery contacts.

The battery contacts in the battery compartment are harder to reach.

Here I put the head of a cotton swab on a pointed probe to reach the contacts in the battery compartment of a Canon T90. Clean with electronic cleaner, but if there is a solid coating or severe oxidation, the part of an eraser can help. In the worst case (when heavily corroded), the contacts have to be sanded down (destructive), which is not easy to do from the outside.

MattKing · Oct 14, 2024

Thread moved to the Camera Repairs sub-forum, because that is what its about

DannyC71 · Oct 15, 2024

Andreas Thaler said:
If the two control LEDs for the battery status, among other things, do not light up, it could be that batteries have leaked at some point, the battery compartment was cleaned but the leaked electrolyte got behind the battery contacts. There is some electronics built in there with contacts that could be damaged.

View attachment 380742

Front of the battery contact plate (removed, please ignore the arrow).

View attachment 380741

Back, the arrow points to a cooroded contact, damaged by battery electrolyt (rechargeables). Also other parts are affected.

Otherwise, I would check the contacts on the battery holder carefully; if there is oxidation here, the current will no longer flow. The eight AA batteries are connected in series and if one contact fails, the current „sticks“.

You can test the function with a multimeter. With fresh AA batteries, there should be over 12 volts at the battery contacts.

The battery contacts in the battery compartment are harder to reach.

Here I put the head of a cotton swab on a pointed probe to reach the contacts in the battery compartment of a Canon T90. Clean with electronic cleaner, but if there is a solid coating or severe oxidation, the part of an eraser can help. In the worst case (when heavily corroded), the contacts have to be sanded down (destructive), which is not easy to do from the outside.

View attachment 380745

View attachment 380743

View attachment 380744

I still have the inoperative one, I just might have to try this.

Nikon MD-4 Motor

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