Turn it on and put a coin on the 4-pin contacts. If it is working it will cycle.
When the shutter release pinn is in the down position and the wind tabs are aligned with the length of the motor, turn off and attach to a camera.
Earlier this year I bought a MD-12 that acted like that. It was real fickle and every time it was connected to camera it would work once or twice and then go full-auto, no matter how the switch was set. I’ve had much better success with MD-11… except that annoying battery drain issue.
Yeah, i will try that.I had a MD15 for a FA that had intermittent no power problems. It turned out to be the battery holder, a new one fixed it. The defective one showed good on a ohm meter and volt meter, I did not have a way to measure the current even though my meter is capable.
Nikon's spring loaded contact pins may be tarnished enough to prevent correct operation as well as the switch contacts. Get a can of CRC QD Electronic Cleaner https://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-11-oz-QD-Electronic-Cleaner-05103/205021975 and flush the switch and contacts for the camera.
One thing I’ll mention but can’t guarantee to be 100% correct without doing the experiment myself… that sounds right except for the “nothing happens at all” when you connect to camera. I think there is a switch in the bottom of camera that interacts with the MD. I’ve never known a MD-11/12 to do more than 1 cycle per shorting of the contacts. I’ve done that multiple times to get it synced for proper installation on camera but never seen a C mode work with the MD off. In fact, I can’t recall the switch working with MD detached but that might because I always short the contacts.Sort of hard to describe what is going on.
Wish i had video.
I am shorting those 4 contacts with a screw-driver.
The winder clicks once or twice, makes a "Whirring" sound and then stops with the light staying on.
If i turn it Off and then On and press the release it clicks one and stops, the light goes out and nothing else happens.
When i connect the winder to the camera, nothing happens at all.
You are not an expert, eh.?If it works on one camera but not the other it’s probably the camera. The FM/FE series all utilize the drive in the same way from what I can tell. If you have an ohm meter handy you can check easily. The two contacts circled in red will be a short circuit (0 ohms or pretty close) when the shutter has been tripped AND the wind lever is tucked in. Once the shutter has been cocked the same contacts will be open (infinite ohms, or no reading on the meter).
Hey Brian -Chip… I would not assume that it’s good if you can’t make it work. The MD-12 I bought was said to be working because it cycled with a coin bit it doesn’t work on my camera, yet my older MD-11 works fine. Honestly, it’s not worth a lot of money so wasting too much time or selling if your not sure and risking return (etc) might not be worth the effort.
No Worries.Ah… I missed that post saying it worked on one body. Sorry.
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?