Nikon L35AF-3

[ic-racer]

Nikon made a few different versions of the L35 point and shoot camera. This particular one, version 3, has closer focusing but maybe a lens with less elements than the first version. Without getting into the details of the various versions, we will get right to the repair.

The fault is that the camera winds the whole roll of film after you close the back and press the shutter button.

Otherwise the camera looks ok.

 

[ic-racer]

As far as I can tell there is no service manual for this camera available on the internet in either paper or PDF. (Please, someone show me wrong!)

One thing stands out, the counter does not count up. So that would be a good place to start looking.

 

[ic-racer]

I don't have any pictures of the disassembly for this component. The problem turns out to be a broken plastic stub that serves as an axle for the rotation of a part that helps engage the frame counter. Since this broke, the gear that advances the frame counter no longer meshed with the frame counter.

The first attempt I used an acetone based glue that, usually, melts the plastic together. In this case it did not work and it failed right away.

 

[ic-racer]

To get a better repair, I removed or at least separated the counter mechanism from the rest of the body. The counter mechanism still was attached by a flexible PC cable.

To get it out these three screws need to be removed after separating the ten solder bridges shown.

 

[ic-racer]

With some wiggleing the unit can be brought up like this.

 

[ic-racer]

This second time I tried CA glue (Super Glue).

 

[ic-racer]

I started to re-assemble the counter mechanism on the glued part.

 

[ic-racer]

The real test comes when applying the spring two springs to the metal lever. The large spring is pretty stiff.

All was OK so far.

 

[ic-racer]

I fed the counter mechanism back under the flexible PC ribbons, re-inserted the three screws and re-soldered the ten solder bridges.

 

[ic-racer]

So, it works now!

Other functions test ok. For example, the close up shade over the flash comes up at the right time. The self timer works. The built-in shutter protector works. The rewind works. The flash-cancel works and the focus indicator works.

I don't know how durable it will be, we will have to see.

BTW the way it works is that after closing the back it will run up 3 or 4 frames then stop. The counter should move up to the "1" and then stop. Ready for the first picture.

 

[Nicholas Lindan]

The camera is probably made from polycarbonate. Regular plastic glues, as you have found, don't work.

A survey web page: https://www.acmeplastics.com/content/which-glues-work-for-polycarbonate-plastic/

Other possibilities are glass filled polyester and nylon.

 

[ic-racer]

Too bad about that fragile part. This camera does not look to be abused or dropped or over-used. The part fits over the stub of an axle. They could have made the axle longer and extend up into the part to reinforce it.

The camera sounds like some plastic toy. I actually don't see the appeal [of these hyped point and shoot cameras], but I wanted to find out. I don't see how anything like this can match a Nikon N55 as a point and shoot camera.

 

[ic-racer]

The camera is probably made from polycarbonate. Regular plastic glues, as you have found, don't work.

A survey web page: https://www.acmeplastics.com/content/which-glues-work-for-polycarbonate-plastic/

Other possibilities are glass filled polyester and nylon.

Methyl Macrylate. I have used that at work for chest wall reconstruction but that was many years ago. But where would one get that otherwise. I don't think I have seen it at a hardware store (unless under some other name??) Of course I would have only needed one drop of it.

 

[Nicholas Lindan]

Should be available at most hardware stores / Home Depot. Goes under funny names.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

Nice work as always. Very motivating!

 

[ic-racer]

Ok, the negatives from multiple rolls through this camera have been examined. There is a persistent loss of sharpness on the right side of the image (left side of the camera's film frame). It appears to be focusing too close on that side, so that rules out film flattness issue.

I don't have a service manual, but trying to find out where any shims could be placed would require a more extensive exploration that I'm going to do on this working camera.

Prints may be OK; I may be too harsh on this camera as I'm also testing a Nikkor 28/2.8 AIs lens, perhaps one of the best 28mm lenses ever.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

I don't have a service manual, but trying to find out where any shims could be placed would require a more extensive exploration that I'm going to do on this working camera.

Maybe helpful:

Learn Camera Repair

learncamerarepair.com

 

[ic-racer]

Yes, there may be something useful there, I'll have to check them out.

Thing is my L35AF version 3 is pretty different from the earlier ones that are well documented. Different lens and focus mechanism among other things.

Earlier version here, pretty different:

 

[Andreas Thaler]

Nice electromechanics with some rust.

What happened to the lens?

 

[ic-racer]

Nice electromechanics with some rust.

What happened to the lens?

That is a picture from the internet; it’s the version in the service documentation on the Learn Camera Repair site. You can see it is a totally different camera from what I have.