Nikon FM shutter button lock on a Nikkormat FT3

GaryFlorida · Apr 13, 2015

Its one of the features I like about the FM. I havent opened up either one yet to look at it but I wonder if I can swap out the locking bezel on the FM onto the FT3. I have an extra parts FM. I also like the hot shoe delete on the older Nikkormats. I wonder if I could swap that out onto my FT3. The last thing I would change is the meter on off switch. I hate that it is on the advance lever. Be nice if it was on a small rotary switch or sliding switch with a small LED indicator. I know that the focus screens arent casually interchangeable by the user, but can they be surgically replaced with different kinds?

Ricardo Miranda · Apr 14, 2015

Your first question: I doubt you can do this as the FM has smaller components than a Nikkormat.

the hot shoe delete on the older Nikkormats

Sorry, I can't understand what is a "delete" on the hot shoe. Could you explain it in another way, please?

If you want a Nikon SLR with an on/off switch around the shutter button, there is the Nikkormat ELW and the Nikon EL2.

About focusing screens on the Nikkormats: they can be changed, but you have to take the top cover as well as everything else that stands in the way to the focusing screen, including the prism. The worst is the shutter strip on the Nikkormats FTn, FT2 and FT3. if you change the focusing screen on a Nikkormat for one that is brighter, than you have to compensate the meter readings using a different ISO setting.
Good luck!

GaryFlorida · Apr 14, 2015

Ricardo Miranda said:
Your first question: I doubt you can do this as the FM has smaller components than a Nikkormat. Sorry, I can't understand what is a "delete" on the hot shoe. Could you explain it in another way, please?If you want a Nikon SLR with an on/off switch around the shutter button, there is the Nikkormat ELW and the Nikon EL2.About focusing screens on the Nikkormats: they can be changed, but you have to take the top cover as well as everything else that stands in the way to the focusing screen, including the prism. The worst is the shutter strip on the Nikkormats FTn, FT2 and FT3. if you change the focusing screen on a Nikkormat for one that is brighter, than you have to compensate the meter readings using a different ISO setting.Good luck!

What I mean by 'delete' on the hot shoe is that I want to remove the hot shoe altogether and make it look as if it was never there like on the earlier Nikkormats. http://www.nicovandijk.net/NFTN.JPGI

I was wondering if the top from an older Nikkormat without the hot shoe would fit on my FT3? or would it be better to just remove the hot shoe and recover. I have a parts FT3 and the skin on the back door is big enough to make a prism skin.

What do you mean by shutter strip? That would be great to be able to have a brighter screen from an FE2 or something and a plain ground glass instead of the split image circle.

The other problem is the meter is supposed to read down to EV 3 but only reads to EV 5 or 6. I have Thomasy's book on Nikon and he suggests cleaning the resistor of any corrosion or dirt. There must be some resistance some where thats not supposed to be there. It seems to underexpose .

Have you worked on these models much?

ThanksGary

Xmas · Apr 14, 2015

HiGary

The cells can also change characteristics with age, you can at need replace and recalibrate if that is the case.

Noel

Ricardo Miranda · Apr 14, 2015

I never "worked" on these models, apart using them to take photographs.

What do you mean by shutter strip?

You know how the shutter speeds appear on the viewfinder? There's a plastic/film strip along the bottom with the speeds. That would need to be removed to access the focusing screen.
This is what I read from others having done so.

The top of a FTn could fit on a FT2, apart you'll have 2 pc sockets where the FT2 has one.
For the FT3 is a bit more complicated: you'll have to see if the mechanism for the AI on the FT3 will fit on the op of the FTn pre-AI mechanism in the front. The right side with the shutter button and everything else shouldn't be a problem.

My personal opinion is for you to get a FTn. They are nice cameras.

GaryFlorida · Apr 14, 2015

Ricardo Miranda said:
If you want a Nikon SLR with an on/off switch around the shutter button, there is the Nikkormat ELW and the Nikon EL2.

Does that lock the shutter button AND switch the meter on or off? Do you think that could be retro fitted into the FT3 and look factory?

Thanks
Gary

*UPDATE* I found the ELW manual and it shows that yes that shutter button lock also switches the meter on and off. I wonder if it could be retrofitted onto the FT3?

Ricardo Miranda · Apr 14, 2015

Well, yes, it works as you found out the same for the ELW and EL2 (I have an EL2).

The top plates are different from the FT3.
EL2:

FT2:

The good news is that you might be able to put a top of the FTn on a FT3. see the FTn top:

GaryFlorida · Apr 14, 2015

Ricardo Miranda said:
Well, yes, it works as you found out the same for the ELW and EL2 (I have an EL2).

The top plates are different from the FT3.
EL2:

FT2:

The good news is that you might be able to put a top of the FTn on a FT3. see the FTn top:

what I want to know is if the locking shutter button/meter switch can come off the ELW top and be put into the top of the FT3 and connected to my meter?

Ricardo Miranda · Apr 14, 2015

That answer can only be given by:
1- reading the repair manuals and

2- trying it.

Unless someone has already done that, you're on your own. Good luck!

GaryFlorida · Apr 14, 2015

Ricardo Miranda said:
That answer can only be given by:
1- reading the repair manuals and

2- trying it.

Unless someone has already done that, you're on your own. Good luck!

There is a third possibility if those camera parts in the picture are rght there in front of you? If so can you glance down and see if there is any obvious reason why they wont interchange? Thanks.

Ricardo Miranda · Apr 14, 2015

Gary,

Those pictures aren't mine. I don't have those parts. Sorry!

GaryFlorida · Apr 14, 2015

What is that camera in your avatar? It looks nice.

John Koehrer · Apr 14, 2015

Check the buttons from the inside of the cover. I vaguely(!) remember them being staked in place.

GaryFlorida · Apr 14, 2015

John Koehrer said:
Check the buttons from the inside of the cover. I vaguely(!) remember them being staked in place.

I was hoping for a retaining nut.

Ricardo Miranda · Apr 14, 2015

GaryFlorida said:
What is that camera in your avatar? It looks nice.

Yeap, it is a very nice camera and I love to use it. I even have 8 of them.

It is the much despised by some Nikon EM Mk2 with its Series E 50mm /1.8 Mk2 and MD-E Mk2. That is all belonging to the same era. It is a light camera perfect for what I do.

Larger version for you:

Nikon EM, MD-E and Series E 50mm F1.8 by ravilamir, on Flickr

Xmas · Apr 15, 2015

GaryFlorida said:
I was hoping for a retaining nut.

You would have an easier time starting with a camera that already had most of the things you wanted.
Or just fixing the meter, after you fix the meter you can try one of the other projects...

John_Nikon_F · Apr 15, 2015

Pick up an FM. If you want to remove the hot shoe, you can. Put a piece of leatherette in place of the shoe. That's about the only way you're going to get what you're looking for.

The top covers are not interchangeable between an FTn or an FT2/FT3 body. Sync terminal on the FT2 and FT3 is mounted to the casting. The FT and FTn sync terminals are mounted to the top cover. You could get it to work, if you took a Dremel tool and cut off the lug that the sync terminal goes through, but then, if you decide to revert the camera to stock for selling purposes, you can't. It'll always remain a modified camera. As far as I know, the shutter release collar on an FM or an ELw/EL2 won't work on an FT series body, at least easily.

The other option is to pick up a good working FTn, then just don't leave it cocked.

-J

GaryFlorida · Apr 15, 2015

John_Nikon_F said:
Pick up an FM. If you want to remove the hot shoe, you can. Put a piece of leatherette in place of the shoe. That's about the only way you're going to get what you're looking for.

The top covers are not interchangeable between an FTn or an FT2/FT3 body. Sync terminal on the FT2 and FT3 is mounted to the casting. The FT and FTn sync terminals are mounted to the top cover. You could get it to work, if you took a Dremel tool and cut off the lug that the sync terminal goes through, but then, if you decide to revert the camera to stock for selling purposes, you can't. It'll always remain a modified camera. As far as I know, the shutter release collar on an FM or an ELw/EL2 won't work on an FT series body, at least easily.

The other option is to pick up a good working FTn, then just don't leave it cocked.

-J

Thanks John. I have already done that to an FM and I like it. The FT3 has more things I like though. Mirror lock up, match needle, top viewing meter, single SR44 non illegal, readily available battery, and I like the DOF preview button placement and shutter control on lens mount, heft, purity yada yada (insert romantic artsy poetry words and feelings here).

Besides this is the camera modification forum where anything goes. I would like a locking shutter button and a switch to turn the meter on and off that does not involve the film advance lever. AND a brighter and plain GG screen which I understand can be done surgically if not at the user level. Then it will be perfect and custom. If anything it would add value (not that i would ever sell it). How hard can it be? Let me have my way, its part of the disease.

Nikon FM shutter button lock on a Nikkormat FT3

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