Nikon FM - Battery drain extremely fast

[Jon Buffington]

So I recently picked up a nice cosmetic condition black Nikon FM. I have noticed that the batteries are draining in maybe 24-48 hours. This is with 2 sets of fresh batteries. The advance lever is in (meter off) so I am assuming something else is going on. What to do? Shoot as a meter less camera or send in for a repair (is it repairable and/or costly)?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Chan Tran]

So I recently picked up a nice cosmetic condition black Nikon FM. I have noticed that the batteries are draining in maybe 24-48 hours. This is with 2 sets of fresh batteries. The advance lever is in (meter off) so I am assuming something else is going on. What to do? Shoot as a meter less camera or send in for a repair (is it repairable and/or costly)?

Thanks in advance.

Are the LED's still on when you close the crank to turn it off?

 

[CMoore]

Assuming there is no Easy/Quick fix...
.....it all depends on how much money You Have, but.......I have done what you just did...12-15 times.
Bought a camera that has the best balance of Cosmetics/Cost than I can afford, and then send it to a tech.
Canon A-1, AT-1, AE-1P
Nikon FM, F2, F3

Without fail, a camera of that age will need work:
Cleaning
Time the shutter
Calibrate meter
Seals
101 other "things"

It is (kind of) like maintaining a car. You do it because you Need/Want the car to work properly. With shipping both ways and depending on what else it needs, I would plan on 100-150 bux. But you will then have a camera that functions the way it is supposed to, and You Will enjoy it much more. I would not be surprised if your camera has not been open since it left the factory 25 years ago.
good luck

 

[Jon Buffington]

chan tran, yes, the led's go off when crank is in.

CMoore, thanks and that is what I am leaning towards (sending it in) and what I suspected. I already have an A-1 in like new condition that I screwed up attempting to fix the canon squeal so might as well send both in.

 

[leicarfcam]

Here's the way I handle issues like this. If it came from eBay contact the seller and inform him you are returning it for a full refund including return cost at his expense per eBay rules. If he balks file a complaint. If it came from a camera shop do the same. If you got it off Craigslist then you're up the creek without a paddle.

 

[shutterfinger]

Do you know how to use a VOM? If so check current in the off mode. With batteries removed and circuit drained of any stored charge check the forward and reverse resistance at the battery connector, one of them should be infinity or capacitor charge to infinity. Check the PC socket, flash hot shoe, and motor drive connectors for debris that may be shorting. The base plate can be easily removed and reinstalled, I would not remove the top plate.
Instruction manual if needed: http://www.cameramanuals.org/nikon_pdf/nikon_fm.pdf

 

[CMoore]

Do you know how to use a VOM? If so check current in the off mode. With batteries removed and circuit drained of any stored charge check the forward and reverse resistance at the battery connector, one of them should be infinity or capacitor charge to infinity. Check the PC socket, flash hot shoe, and motor drive connectors for debris that may be shorting. The base plate can be easily removed and reinstalled, I would not remove the top plate.
Instruction manual if needed: http://www.cameramanuals.org/nikon_pdf/nikon_fm.pdf

Can you explain this in more detail.?
1. How is he draining the caps.?
2. With a DMM set on Ohms, what numbers is he supposed to see across the battery terminal.?
Thank You

 

[shutterfinger]

1. With the battery disconnected/removed, any piece of electronic equipment or device, turn it ON. In the case of the camera, pull the wind lever out part way, press the shutter button half way, wait 3 to 5 seconds then press to fully pressed for another 5 to 10 seconds.
2. Infinity. The meter may dip to 300K or so but increase to infinity. Being the batteries run down rather quickly I suspect that a meter will never read infinity but a high megohm value. Knowing what it currently is and finding one bad connection or deformed circuit board and correcting that will help you in knowing whether you have it fixed or if more problems exists without a lot of guess work.
3. Ohm meters are polarized whether analog or digital. Reversing the leads and rechecking is necessary then use the configuration that produces the highest reading.

 

[GRHazelton]

Interesting thread. I have 2 Pentax MXs with a similar problem. One gave me years of trouble-free service before eating cells. The other, a beauty in black, I bought used; the problem surfaced after several weeks - past a reasonable return time. On the MX there is a tiny leaf switch accessible upon removing the base plate; it closes when the wind lever is pulled away from the body and activates the meter. If the meter isn't turned off the cells die sooner. This CAN be the source with the MX, but not in my case, of course!

So its off the Erik with them!

 

[GRHazelton]

Interesting thread. I have 2 Pentax MXs with a similar problem. One gave me years of trouble-free service before eating cells. The other, a beauty in black, I bought used; the problem surfaced after several weeks - past a reasonable return time. On the MX there is a tiny leaf switch accessible upon removing the base plate; it closes when the wind lever is pulled away from the body and activates the meter. If the meter isn't turned off the cells die sooner. This CAN be the source with the MX, but not in my case, of course!

So its off to Erik with them!

 

[Jon Buffington]

Thank you all for the replies. Measuring voltage is a little beyond my limited expertise. I have relegated this camera to be sent off tomorrow for CLA/repair along with 2 other bodies that I have been neglecting to.

Edit to add: This was a flea market purchase. Good price however was aware of the risks. Came without batteries however cosmetics were nice and shutter speeds sounded accurate. Meter appears accurate, just drains the batteries.