nikon fg shutter issue

[Brewingfishserman]

Hello,
Back ground.

I am still relatively new to 35mm film cameras. And have recently acquired some cameras.

I currently use a nikonos v set up for underwater shooting. Got it serviced through narcosis101 on Instagram (can also be found on various social media paltforms and eBay under the same name) And I am happy. Above water shooting it does well. And also does really well at depths off 100ft.

Issue :

Now I have a nikon fg. Works in m90, and b shuter settings. But in any other settings it simply does not work. I set it to A or any other shutter speed and the mirror goes up the shutter does not engage or anything until I switch back to m90. The camera does need new foam throughout. But would rather not send it for a costly repair. I am using sr44 batteries. (324 silver oxide) if anyone has any insight on this issue please let me know thank you in advance.

 

[shutterfinger]

The instruction manua is available at https://www.cameramanuals.org/nikon_pdf/nikon_fg.pdf

Works in m90, and b shuter settings. But in any other settings it simply does not work.

I assume this means any Manual speed/aperture setting.
In manual mode does the meter reading change with a change in either the aperture or shutter speed setting?
If the meter reading changes with a change in shutter speed but not in aperture then the aperture sensor is not working. The aperture lever at the top of the lens opening may be bent and not contacting the lens properly, some bodies use a string from that lever to the actual control and the string breaks rendering the aperture reading inoperable.
The shutter is electronically controlled so it could be switch contacts needing cleaning or other electronic failure.
Try a fresh set of batteries, operating the ISO dial through its full range several times, the exposure compensation dial through its full range several times, and the speed dial throughout it full range several times. This will help clean the contacts of the controls improving their contacts.

 

[Brewingfishserman]

The instruction manua is available at https://www.cameramanuals.org/nikon_pdf/nikon_fg.pdf

I assume this means any Manual speed/aperture setting.
In manual mode does the meter reading change with a change in either the aperture or shutter speed setting?
If the meter reading changes with a change in shutter speed but not in aperture then the aperture sensor is not working. The aperture lever at the top of the lens opening may be bent and not contacting the lens properly, some bodies use a string from that lever to the actual control and the string breaks rendering the aperture reading inoperable.
The shutter is electronically controlled so it could be switch contacts needing cleaning or other electronic failure.
Try a fresh set of batteries, operating the ISO dial through its full range several times, the exposure compensation dial through its full range several times, and the speed dial throughout it full range several times. This will help clean the contacts of the controls improving their contacts.

Thank you for the insight.

I'm going with electronic failure.

I am using a fresh set of sr44 batteries same as my nikonos v.

Lights in the viewfinder are not illuminating at all.

If i press the shutter release the mirror goes up and the shutter stays closed until i bring it to the m90 or bulb setting.

Considering your response and the limted information I can find. There has to be an issue with the Battery connection or internal electronics. FYI battery terminals did appear clean and I did clean them with vinegar and a qtip.

 

[shutterfinger]

I found this https://learncamerarepair.com/downloads/pdf/Nikon-FG-SPT.pdf
read through it especially the troubleshooting sections beginning on page 10.

Do you have a volt/ohm meter?

 

[Brewingfishserman]

I found this https://learncamerarepair.com/downloads/pdf/Nikon-FG-SPT.pdf
read through it especially the troubleshooting sections beginning on page 10.

Do you have a volt/ohm meter?

Awesome. Thank you so much gor the help.

 

[Autonerd]

Now I have a nikon fg. Works in m90, and b shuter settings. But in any other settings it simply does not work.

I've had this problem and fixed it.

Do the meter LEDs in the viewfinder light up at all? If you have no lights and the shutter behavior you describe it might be a battery problem.

Months ago I was given an FG that appeared to be completely dead. No LEDs and only worked at M/bulb. About 3 weeks ago, on a whim, I scraped the contact inside the battery compartment and the one in the battery lid and tried installing the batteries backwards. Bingo! (I usually try batteries in both directions so maybe it was the contact cleaning. I hope it was the contact cleaning because I can't imagine I assumed a camera was dead without trying the simple trick of reversing the batteries...)

SR44 batteries are correct -- I use Energizer 376 batteries. They are installed with the flat side (with the writing) towards the camera and the "bump" side towards the outside/battery cap. If all is well, you should be able to half-press the shutter release and get red LEDs on the right edge of the viewfinder, plus all shutter speeds working. With dead/improperly installed/no batteries or bad contact, the camera will fire at any speed other than M90/B but the mirror will stay locked up and will return when you turn the dial to M90 or B. And no LEDs of course.

If it's not a battery or contact issue it might be faulty electronics. I had an FE with similar shutter symptoms and a working meter. The repair plus CLA cost me around $100. Well worth it.

HTH
Aaron

 

[Brewingfishserman]

I've had this problem and fixed it.

Do the meter LEDs in the viewfinder light up at all? If you have no lights and the shutter behavior you describe it might be a battery problem.

Months ago I was given an FG that appeared to be completely dead. No LEDs and only worked at M/bulb. About 3 weeks ago, on a whim, I scraped the contact inside the battery compartment and the one in the battery lid and tried installing the batteries backwards. Bingo! (I usually try batteries in both directions so maybe it was the contact cleaning. I hope it was the contact cleaning because I can't imagine I assumed a camera was dead without trying the simple trick of reversing the batteries...)

SR44 batteries are correct -- I use Energizer 376 batteries. They are installed with the flat side (with the writing) towards the camera and the "bump" side towards the outside/battery cap. If all is well, you should be able to half-press the shutter release and get red LEDs on the right edge of the viewfinder, plus all shutter speeds working. With dead/improperly installed/no batteries or bad contact, the camera will fire at any speed other than M90/B but the mirror will stay locked up and will return when you turn the dial to M90 or B. And no LEDs of course.

If it's not a battery or contact issue it might be faulty electronics. I had an FE with similar shutter symptoms and a working meter. The repair plus CLA cost me around $100. Well worth it.

HTH
Aaron

Thank you for the reply.

Fresh batteries and contacts look clean. Used a qtip with vinegar on them as well. Inside and out the camera looks really clean besides the foam which is falling apart. (I did have the batteries installed correctly but reversed them just in case. No beans)

Someone sent me the manual in a post above which I need to read thru and use my multimeter to figure out what's going on.

Where did you send your camera for service? I do need to send it out for new foam or try to do that my self.

There is alot of dust in the view finder. I've done qtip with isopropyl all over but im thinking it is somewhere I haven't been able to reach yet.

I'm hoping tomorrow I will have some time to use the meter on it and I will update here once I do and figure it out.

 

[shutterfinger]

I scraped the contact inside the battery compartment and the one in the battery lid and tried installing the batteries backwards. Bingo! (I usually try batteries in both directions so maybe it was the contact cleaning. I hope it was the contact cleaning because I can't imagine I assumed a camera was dead without trying the simple trick of reversing the batteries...)

I inadvertently installed the batteries backwards (wrong polarity) in a Nikon FA, it killed the meter. The FA does not have a blocking diode to prevent the reversed polarity from damaging the electronics.
Reversed polarity is generally a bad idea. Reversing the leads on a VOM when checking a diode or transistor is a safe practice. I've had diodes self repair upon reversing the leads.

I suspect bad solder or contamination in the battery compartment. I had a MD15 whose battery holder checked good with an ohm meter but would not power the motor drive. A new battery holder fixed the motor drive.

 

[reddesert]

Also, check that the battery compartment is not broken or cracked.

Sometimes the plastic battery compartment develops a crack, so that when closed up the batteries aren't making good contact with the terminals. This can happen if a previous battery went bad and expanded due to corrosion. I currently have an FE with a cracked compartment. If this appears to be a problem, and you can get some alligator clips wired from a battery to the terminals to get good contact, then you can check if it works when you apply 3V to the terminals.

 

[Autonerd]

Where did you send your camera for service? I do need to send it out for new foam or try to do that my self.

I used a local place called Camera Max in Montrose (near Los Angeles). Not sure if he's currently open what with COVID-19. Good service on the FE although one foam seal isn't staying put.

There is alot of dust in the view finder. I've done qtip with isopropyl all over but im thinking it is somewhere I haven't been able to reach yet.

Be careful with alcohol near those screens... no experience myself but I understand some are plastic and alcohol can craze them. Dust on the viewfinder doesn't affect pictures, and I don't do any viewfinder cleaning beyond blowing out some of the goop.

Aaron

 

[eli griggs]

Alcohol can also cause some plastics to spontaneously crack, so unless your Kit's OEM manualsmanual says to use a type of alcohol, do no do it.

IMO

 

[shutterfinger]

I've been using 91% Isopropyl Alcohol and never had a problem with plastics or rubber but then I don't soak those parts in the alcohol.
I used Denatured Alcohol in the 1970's on stereo gear and had it damage turntable stylus so i don't use it any more.
Rubbing alcohol contains mineral oil so its not good for cameras.
I have some 99% industrial Isopropyl alcohol as the local stores have been out of any type alcohol since the start of the Covid 19 PITA.
I plan to dilute it with distilled water to make a 90% solution for cleaning camera parts.