Nikon FE2 and MD-11--Some Specific Questions

[FilmOnly]

Hi, all,

I have been thinking of acquiring a Nikon FE2. My objective would be twofold:

1) to take advantage of the 1/250 flash sync speed
2) to have access to Nikon glass

I had an FM2n, and sold it as I did not like its viewfinder. I like unobstructed viewfinders (like that of the Canon F-1N and A-1), and did not appreciate the little shutter speed bulge on the left. The FE2's viewfinder would seem to be fairly unobstructed. I also did not know if I could live with a lens system that does not have half-stop detents. I know there is space in between for stopping, but it seemed to be something that would be rather imprecise.

At the time, I had also obtained an MD-12 drive, and it was very finicky. I could not get it to work consistently. Thus, I ended up parting with both the FM2n and the MD-12. Is the MD-11 any better, especially in terms of reliability? I welcome any comments on the FE-2, AIS lesnes, or MD-11.

 

[mgb74]

I believe the MD-12 was designed to address faults with the MD-11. I'm not sure you'll find the MD-11 better. I'm not aware of a inherent, common, fault with the MD-12 (but there's a lot of things I'm not aware of).

 

[fotch]

I have used a MD-12 for many years, never a problem. Might of been just your unit. Battery corrosion is a problem with any drive, or flash.

 

[PhotoJim]

The MD-11 has one weakness: if you forget to turn it off, it will kill the button cells in your camera. I'd strongly recommend the MD-12.

I have a pair of reliable MD-12s. Small sample size, but twice as big as yours. The drive overall seems decently reliable.

 

[FilmOnly]

I thank you for the input. If I make a purchase, I will go with the MD-12. Any other opinions? Those full-stop lens detents are holding me back...

 

[markbarendt]

I have an FE2 and don't find the full stop detents any issue.

In A mode the shutter finds whatever speed it wants to get a "perfect" exposure.

If I'm looking for a specific speed the aperture ring never exactly on a detent anyway.

I thank you for the input. If I make a purchase, I will go with the MD-12. Any other opinions? Those full-stop lens detents are holding me back...

 

[PhotoJim]

Ignore the detents. It's easier to set 1/3 stops on these lenses than it is on ones with click stops on the half stops.

 

[glockman99]

I used a FE2 and MD12 for a few years (as back-up to my F3HP/MD4) as a shooter with our local daily newspaper with no problems. The FE2/MD12 combo is a very solid performer. Another excellent Nikon combo to take a good look at is the FA/MD15 combo, as the MD15 will supply power to the camera (as well as drive the film)...Same as the MD4 with the F3/F3HP.

 

[glockman99]

I thank you for the input. If I make a purchase, I will go with the MD-12. Any other opinions? Those full-stop lens detents are holding me back...

Unless I'm mistaken, the "full-stop lens detents" have nothing to do with the camera (or MD12 motordrive)...It's the lens that does (or doesn't) have that limitation.

 

[FilmOnly]

I thank you for the replies. Yes, the full-stop detents are a lens issue.

I have decided against the FE2 kit. In looking things over, I was also reminded of the fact that the depth of field scale on Nikon 50mm lenses is rather odd. As I recall, the 50/1.8 AIS has markings for f/11, f/16, and f/22, and no markings for f/4 and f/8. Not only are f/4 and f/8 more common (and usable) stops, but having markings for the three latter stops on a 50mm lens is rather illogical, as beyond f/8, most of the scene is in focus at a 50mm focal length. My Canon 50s, for example, have much more useful (and logical) markings: f/4, f/8, f/11...and f/16. A good depth of field scale is an invaluable tool.

 

[dynachrome]

I use both Canon and Nikon cameras and lenses. Most people use the depth of field preview feature rather than the table on the lens. Most lenses without half stop detents can still be used between stops. If you are using print film the difference of 1/5 or 1/10 of a stop will make no practical difference. With slide film you can fine tune things with the exposure compensation dial or you can tilt the camera up or down for a moment, lock the exposure and then recompose and shoot. I did that for years with my Konica Autoreflex cameras. I have two FE bodies, an MD-11 and an MD-12. Sometimes I just use an N2020 for manual focus macro work. The built-in winder isn't as fast as an MD-11 or MD-12 but it's fast enough for many subjects.

 

[FilmOnly]

I find the distance scale easier to use than DOF preview. I could not say what the majority of photographers prefer, but, in any case, there is little excuse for the illogical distance scale markings on the Nikon 50/1.8 AIS. With regard to half-stops, I have found that it is much easier having half-stop detents, especially for print photography.

 

[cooltouch]

Nikon's DOF markings vary based on the lens. My 50mm f/1.4 AI has DOF markings for f/4, f/8, f/11, and f/16. No f/5.6 because it would be too crowded I guess, and no f/22 because my lens goes to f/16 only.

I agree that good DOF scales are invaluable, btw. But the lack of half-stop detents has never been an issue with me. It's easy enough to place the aperture ring in between f/stop settings. And unless one is shooting some very narrow lattitude slide film, +/- a half stop isn't going to matter.