Nikon FE

[labans]

I have a Nikon FE from waaaaay back along with a Vivitar Series 1 28-105mm lens. Can someone help me establish the value of this camera? It is in excellent condition.
Thanks in advance

 

[Dusty Negative]

‘Bout $100 US or thereabouts for the camera. They’re plentiful on ebay.

 

[rulnacco]

‘Bout $100 US or thereabouts for the camera. They’re plentiful on ebay.

Yep. In fact, a couple of years ago I bought another FE, a black one, from a pawn shop. And that's exactly what it cost me. If you're paying more than $130 for a truly *mint* one, you're overpaying. It's easy to find good deals on nice condition cameras.

 

[crowtalks]

Look on Ebay and find "completed auctions" box on the left panel, for the FE (and the FE2) and you will get a good idea what people are actually paying for them.

SLR camera prices seem to have risen a little in the last few years (along with the price of about everything else)...especially with cameras that have had a recent CLA performed on them.

I agree somewhere around $100 for a body is obtainable, but some have recently sold for much more than that.

Jim

 

[neilt3]

I have a Nikon FE from waaaaay back along with a Vivitar Series 1 28-105mm lens. Can someone help me establish the value of this camera? It is in excellent condition.
Thanks in advance

I paid £50 or £60 for mine maximum , a year or two back .
The lens would be worthless to me and if you were selling as a BIN including the lens I'd be put off as I'm paying extra for something of no use to me .

What you consider " excellent condition" varies , and without having a proper look at the camera , your opinion about it and mine might vary significantly.

I've just bought a camera off ebay that was listed as such and have had to return it ( and leave negative feedback)

Sold as in "excellent condition" and when I got it , it did look nice .

First off the shutter just twitched but didn't open , so not a lot of use taking a picture .
The light meter didn't work , due to corroded batteries in the compartment.
When replaced with fresh batteries , it still didn't work.

Open the back and all the light seals had degraded and we're smeared all over .

"Excellent condition"? Yeah right !

The seller then claimed it was sold as "vintage" and was sold as is .
Except it was listed as "used" which means in full working order , no bits missing or damaged .
Just slight wear .

So without detailed pictures and an assurance it is full correct working order etc , it's impossible to give you a value on what your gears worth .

 

[Sirius Glass]

I have a Nikon FE from waaaaay back along with a Vivitar Series 1 28-105mm lens. Can someone help me establish the value of this camera? It is in excellent condition.
Thanks in advance

Welcome to APUG Photrio!!​

 

[pdccamerqs]

Recent completed/sold listings for Nikon FE bodies are in the $75 - $120 range on Ebay, based on condition, with the average right around $100 as stated earlier. The selling price for the body on KEH is $75 - $200 from bargain to EX+ condition. KEH is paying about $90 for FE chrome bodies in EX+ condition. The Vivitar zoom lens won't affect the cost much.

 

[Autonerd]

I have a Nikon FE from waaaaay back along with a Vivitar Series 1 28-105mm lens. Can someone help me establish the value of this camera? It is in excellent condition.
Thanks in advance

Agreed with all of the above, and you can probably sell it for more if it's film-tested -- but that might cost you $10 or $20. FEs are not the most reliable things, so be careful about advertising it (on eBay at least) in excellent condition if you're not sure -- if it's listed as "used" and doesn't work at 100%, it's an INAD (Item Not As Described), you'll have to refund the seller full purchase price + shipping *plus* eat the cost of shipping back. "As-is" is safer if you aren't sure.

Aaron

 

[neilt3]

Agreed with all of the above, and you can probably sell it for more if it's film-tested -- but that might cost you $10 or $20. FEs are not the most reliable things, so be careful about advertising it (on eBay at least) in excellent condition if you're not sure -- if it's listed as "used" and doesn't work at 100%, it's an INAD (Item Not As Described), you'll have to refund the seller full purchase price + shipping *plus* eat the cost of shipping back. "As-is" is safer if you aren't sure.

Aaron

If it's listed as "used" it has to work 100% .
You can't just add "as is" to the discription .
@ the OP , check eBay's definition of each description type .

I think the alternative is either leaving the condition blank or selecting "for parts" / spares/repair , where the value plummets .

I've returned things listed as "used" which means fully working and a description of "as is" which to me means look at the pictures , yes it is scratched , dented etc but fully works .
Listed as " no returns" but when arrived faulty, it's not as described.
So back it goes .

Either it's fully working and tested or its sold as faulty .
No cop outs in the description.

 

[Autonerd]

If it's listed as "used" it has to work 100% .
You can't just add "as is" to the discription .
@ the OP , check eBay's definition of each description type .

I think the alternative is either leaving the condition blank or selecting "for parts" / spares/repair , where the value plummets .

Yes, you are correct, "For parts/not working" is the proper description on eBay, as opposed to "used" (I too have used that out, and have written about it). Thanks for clarifying!

Aaron