Nikon FE Light Meter Needle Not Moving with Aperture

[Ani]

Hi, new Nikon FE user (new user, in general). Having some issues with the meter. The black needle responds to changes in light (i.e. if I pass my hand in front of the lens, it will jump according to how much/little light there is). But the black needle doesn't move as I adjust aperture, and I can only get the black and green needle to overlap if I change the shutter speed to align with the black needle. As an additional note, if the shutter is AUTO, the black needle does not move as I adjust aperture, either.

This camera was in storage for maybe 8 years, and when I tried it out last weekend, did not have this problem for an entire roll. Battery seems OK, at least according to the battery check.

Any help would be much appreciated!

 

[Chan Tran]

Check if the AI aperture coupling isn't flipped out of the way. On the FE you can do that in order to mount pre AI lenses. However, if it is flipped out of the way it would behave exactly as you describe. Please read the manual if you don't how this work. If you don't have the manual let us know.

 

[Ani]

Thanks for your quick response!

The lens I have has a meter coupling ridge, so I do not have it flipped out of the way. However, I had also tried it with it flipped up/out of the way (in case I was misunderstanding and what I thought was the meter coupling ridge was not actually the meter coupling ridge). In either case, the problem persists.

 

[shutterfinger]

http://www.cameramanuals.org/nikon_pdf/nikon_fe.pdf
Exposure measurement begins on manual page 24 (pdf25).

 

[Chan Tran]

Thanks for your quick response!

The lens I have has a meter coupling ridge, so I do not have it flipped out of the way. However, I had also tried it with it flipped up/out of the way (in case I was misunderstanding and what I thought was the meter coupling ridge was not actually the meter coupling ridge). In either case, the problem persists.

If the meter coupling moves and track the lens aperture ring well then the problem is with the FRE resistor that moves with the coupling. Also check and see if the meter needle moves with the ASA settings.

 

[Ani]

If the meter coupling moves and track the lens aperture ring well then the problem is with the FRE resistor that moves with the coupling. Also check and see if the meter needle moves with the ASA settings.

Hi Chan Tran,

Yes, the meter needle moves with the ASA settings.

If it is, then, the FRE resistor, what are my options?

Thanks again for your help!

 

[Chan Tran]

Hi Chan Tran,

Yes, the meter needle moves with the ASA settings.

If it is, then, the FRE resistor, what are my options?

Thanks again for your help!

Now point the camera at the light. See where the meter needle is pointing at. With that shutter speed and ASA which is the correct aperture should be? Is it the maximum aperture or minimum aperture. I do this to try to figure out the FRE resistor is at it's max or min position.
Now I never did it so you may have to ask someone experience. I think the FRE resistor needs to be clean.

 

[bernard_L]

Similar to, but different from the comment from Chan Tran. With lens removed, check if the body's meter coupling moves freely. It can happen that there is enough friction compared with the spring action, that it remains stuck at the end of its travel range. If that is the case, do the following:

• Carefully remove the flange from the body, exposing the exposure coupling resistor.
  
• Protect the mirror and mirror box with tissue paper
• Sparingly spray an electronic contact cleaner, of the kind that also claims to lubricate
• Move coupling back and forth a couple of times
• Put back the flange with correct torque on the screws.

good luck

 

[Ani]

Now point the camera at the light. See where the meter needle is pointing at. With that shutter speed and ASA which is the correct aperture should be? Is it the maximum aperture or minimum aperture. I do this to try to figure out the FRE resistor is at it's max or min position.
Now I never did it so you may have to ask someone experience. I think the FRE resistor needs to be clean.

Hi Chan Tran,

Not sure if this is what you mean, but when I set ASA to 100 and shutter to 125 (or ASA to 200 and shutter to 250), the black needle is point to 1000

Similar to, but different from the comment from Chan Tran. With lens removed, check if the body's meter coupling moves freely. It can happen that there is enough friction compared with the spring action, that it remains stuck at the end of its travel range. If that is the case, do the following:

• Carefully remove the flange from the body, exposing the exposure coupling resistor.
  
• Protect the mirror and mirror box with tissue paper
• Sparingly spray an electronic contact cleaner, of the kind that also claims to lubricate
• Move coupling back and forth a couple of times
• Put back the flange with correct torque on the screws.

good luck

Hi Bernard,

This may have solved the problem. I read your post and did not quite understand -- because the body's meter coupling HADN'T been moving with the aperture (in retrospect -- d'oh!). I took off the lens to do what you said, and saw that indeed the body's meter coupling moves. When I put the lens back, it wasn't moving, but I played with it for a moment and the body's meter coupling seems to be in the correct location now, moving in line as I adjust aperture. Potentially I had just fit the lens in incorrectly?

I think that might be the solution!!

Thank you sincerely for your help and to Chan Tran! What a great community of users!

 

[Chan Tran]

If the meter coupling moves and track the lens aperture ring well then the problem is with the FRE resistor that moves with the coupling. Also check and see if the meter needle moves with the ASA settings.

I did ask you to fist check if the coupling moves and track the lens aperture ring.

 

[bernard_L]

the body's meter coupling seems to be in the correct location now, moving in line as I adjust aperture. Potentially I had just fit the lens in incorrectly? I think that might be the solution!!

Good for you, and glad this solved your problem But if you did nothing else than jiggling the coupling and re-mounting the lens, you might be in a marginal condition, with the problem ready to return. If I were you, I would apply sparingly some contact cleaner/lubricant as I suggested (and protect the mirror box!).

 

[hsandler]

Since the OP's problem appears to be solved, perhaps it's OK if I hijack the thread to ask about a similar problem I have with an FE body. The aperture follower has no spring tension, so it stays in one position. The resistor must be OK because the meter responds if I manually push the follower against the aperture ridge of the lens. Can someone point me to where I would find the location of the apparently missing spring inside the body?

 

[bernard_L]

Can someone point me to where I would find the location of the apparently missing spring inside the body?

Can't tell for sure, for lack of experience with that precise model. But if you remove the metal flange(3 or 4 screws) I bet you will find a long spring running inside a circular track. It can't have escaped... Maybe it's just dis-engaged? Else start internet researching about DIY springs; you'll need the proper diameter of steel wire.

 

[shutterfinger]

hsandler, I googled Nikon FE repair manual and this is the first hit: http://www.suaudeau.eu/memo/manuels_rep/reflexes/nikon/Nikon_FE_rm.pdf
I suggest downloading it for future reference.
The meter coupling system starts on pdf page 2.
If a screw seems stuck put some acetone (nail polish remover) on it and wait a few minutes then try it again.

 

[hsandler]

hsandler, I googled Nikon FE repair manual and this is the first hit: http://www.suaudeau.eu/memo/manuels_rep/reflexes/nikon/Nikon_FE_rm.pdf
I suggest downloading it for future reference.
The meter coupling system starts on pdf page 2.
If a screw seems stuck put some acetone (nail polish remover) on it and wait a few minutes then try it again.

Thanks for that. Indeed, the thread was broken. I don't feel confident proceeding any deeper into the body to try to replace it. At least I can use this body manually as it is.

 

[darkroommike]

Thanks for that. Indeed, the thread was broken. I don't feel confident proceeding any deeper into the body to try to replace it. At least I can use this body manually as it is.

I have the exact problem with an FE I picked up cheap, I just use a handheld meter and I am good.

 

[pepo]

Hi Folks, new here. Hope it does not bother you if I ask a question related to this problem.
I have had an FE for 25 years and convinced several friends to buy one when they asked me wich camera to buy.
Now one of this cameras has a stuck meter and was given to me as a gift.
The aperture coupling moves just fine, but the meter needle is stuck at 8 seconds, It will not respond to light changes or anything. Its the same with or without batteries installed. It does not seem to be phisically impeded to move: When I shake the camera up and down, it moves a bit. So my guess is it is an electrical problem, not mechanical. But what do I know? Hope someone knows better.
Thanks in advance.
Pepo

 

[RalphLambrecht]

Thanks for your quick response!

The lens I have has a meter coupling ridge, so I do not have it flipped out of the way. However, I had also tried it with it flipped up/out of the way (in case I was misunderstanding and what I thought was the meter coupling ridge was not actually the meter coupling ridge). In either case, the problem persists.

sounds like a case for the repairman or Nikon itself

 

[pepo]

It seems the meter itself works. Shooting in automatic I can hear different speeds being used, so its the needle to blame, not the meter itself.

 

[BeemerNut]

Question not to be labled as a hijacker with first thread to the original poster.
New to me FE Nikon camera with 35-105mm Nikkor 1:3.5-4.5 lens, both like new condition. Lust of owning a Nikon 50 years I had to buy this one.
The black needle will change with differernt shutter speed numbers also with different film speeds as well changing F-stops. Black needle does not change from position looking at light while rotating from AUTO, 1,000, all the way down to M90 and B.

I'm stumped as no matter film speed selection along with AUTO the full range from AUTO and any shutter speed down to B setting the green needle does not move out of the RED "A" zone, GREEN needle parked at the very top of the RED zone at almost every adjustment except 125 then middle of RED, middle again at 2 white and 2 orange, 4 orange at bottom of RED zone, 8 orange middle of Red, M90 and B at bottom inside of RED zone.
No function allpowing BLACK needle match or hover over the wide GREEN needle a function as mentioned in the FE operating manual recently found online.
Camera broken or this normal due to the 35-105 NIKKOR lens (only lense mounted on camera no case when purchased) that has F-stop automatic connection that functions smoothly allowing Black needle shutter speed corrections when changing F-stops.
New 257/303 batteries, haven't run film in it, shutter functions at all selected speeds but will not hold shutter open on Bulb with shutter button held down which seems odd? THX....Carl.....