Check this page: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/594226/Nikon-F80.html?page=11
Foma films are not DX coded and will give an error message when loaded with film speed set to DX.
I wasn't aware their film wasn't DX coded .
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My F80 would not even recognise non-DX Lomo film was inserted in the camera. No error message, no rewind or wind on - nothing.
My F80 would not even recognise non-DX Lomo film was inserted in the camera. No error message, no rewind or wind on - nothing.
I think it's a cost issue. They use the same black cartridges for all their 135 films and put paper stickers on them. Printing several different metal cartridges with their DX codes would be expensive. An alternative would be printing conductive metal stickers, and that's also not cheap.I'm surprised in this day and age the film manufacturers can't be arsed to even put DX coding on their film .
Granted the typical camera Lomo film goes in probably doesn't have a DX code reader in it , but all the same ...
I think it's a cost issue. They use the same black cartridges for all their 135 films and put paper stickers on them. Printing several different metal cartridges with their DX codes would be expensive. An alternative would be printing conductive metal stickers, and that's also not cheap.
I have never had use for the DX codes. None of my cameras uses it, and I like to be in control over the camera anyway.
Check this page: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/594226/Nikon-F80.html?page=11
Foma films are not DX coded and will give an error message when loaded with film speed set to DX.
I've seen a hack where you cut down the shell from a DX coded cassette and wrap it around the one with your film in it. Not sure if all cameras will tolerate the extra millimeter or so that adds to the diameter, but it worked in the example case I saw. Handy for shooting, say, ISO 400 film at ISO 200 or similar, too. Another option would be a narrow strip of aluminum tape with label stock or masking tape applied to produce the correct DX code pattern -- but that's a lot of work for each cassette; wrapping another shell is much quicker/easier if your camera will accept it.
I can remember (a very long time ago) being able to buy stick-on labels, for use on home-loaded cassettes, which had relevant values of the DX codes printed on them in foil. They worked fine with the cameras I had then, but these labels probably not obtainable now ? Might still have some hidden away somewhere.
I shoot film wit a Nikon N80 (the USA version) all the time. Manual DX is the way to go. BTW, the N80 (F80) is a great film body. Put an AF Nikkor 50/1.8D on it, and you've got a great little, and light weight, film set up.
Freestyle sells them. They're not super cheap, but the idea is to use them with reloadable cassettes.
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