Nikon F80 + Fomapan = problem

[Ti_Pierrot]

Hi Everyone,

I have been having this Nikon F80 for a year now and all the film goes through nicely except Fomapan. To be more precise when I put the film in then close the back door and press the button to load the film, It unroll like crazy and then show me an error message. It happened to me with 2 fomapan roll but never with any other film.

I just wondered if anyone had that kind of similar problem and where could that come from.

Thanks

 

[Wallendo]

Check this page: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/594226/Nikon-F80.html?page=11
Foma films are not DX coded and will give an error message when loaded with film speed set to DX.

 

[darkosaric]

That could be it - if you do not set manually ISO - F80 will give you error message. I have this with films in plastic containers from 30 meter rolls.

 

[neilt3]

I've not heard of that before .
The only Fomapan I use is in 5x4 sheets .
Three suggestions .
1, clean the contacts for the DX coding in the film chamber where the cassette is placed .
2 , Check the device for counting the sprocket holes is clear .
If it can't see it , it doesn't know if the leaded has advanced enough .
Unlikely this , as it should effect all films equally .
3 , If that doesn't work , tape over the DX code on the roll of film and input the ISO manually .

 

[neilt3]

Check this page: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/594226/Nikon-F80.html?page=11
Foma films are not DX coded and will give an error message when loaded with film speed set to DX.

I wasn't aware their film wasn't DX coded .
Odd .
that'll likely be the problem though .

 

[ic-racer]

The leader is not being caught by the notch on the takeup spool? Is that the problem?
If so, the DX sensors have nothing to do with this, so ignore that. Work on making sure there is enough curl in the film so when the notch comes around it will catch one of the sprocket holes.

 

[pentaxuser]

I wasn't aware their film wasn't DX coded .
.

Me neither,. If they are DX coded then this is very recent and I'd have expected to see someone on Photrio giving us the news

pentaxuser

 

[Paul Howell]

Foma is not Dx coded, one of the reason I still buy some Ultrafine or Kentmeyer for my Pentax IQ point and shoot which defaults non DX coded films to ISO 25. A Nikon N80 should have a ISO over ride and can set to what ever ISO the user wants.

 

[Horatio]

Instructions for manual ISO setting:

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/594226/Nikon-F80.html?page=19#manual

 

[Ti_Pierrot]

Thanks so much everyone. To be fair I've never paid attention on the fact that fomapan was not DX coded. I think by setting the loading mode to not reset to DX coding might be a good option.
Just I thought that when you put a non DX into a camera with DX It just set It to average ISO (200 if I am right) and that's It not unroll the film but well I'll try that soon and let you know.

 

[perkeleellinen]

My F80 would not even recognise non-DX Lomo film was inserted in the camera. No error message, no rewind or wind on - nothing.

 

[radiant]

My F80 would not even recognise non-DX Lomo film was inserted in the camera. No error message, no rewind or wind on - nothing.

Well .. F80 just knows it's worth

 

[neilt3]

My F80 would not even recognise non-DX Lomo film was inserted in the camera. No error message, no rewind or wind on - nothing.

I'm surprised in this day and age the film manufacturers can't be arsed to even put DX coding on their film .
Granted the typical camera Lomo film goes in probably doesn't have a DX code reader in it , but all the same ...

 

[JPD]

I'm surprised in this day and age the film manufacturers can't be arsed to even put DX coding on their film .
Granted the typical camera Lomo film goes in probably doesn't have a DX code reader in it , but all the same ...

I think it's a cost issue. They use the same black cartridges for all their 135 films and put paper stickers on them. Printing several different metal cartridges with their DX codes would be expensive. An alternative would be printing conductive metal stickers, and that's also not cheap.

I have never had use for the DX codes. None of my cameras uses it, and I like to be in control over the camera anyway.

 

[neilt3]

I think it's a cost issue. They use the same black cartridges for all their 135 films and put paper stickers on them. Printing several different metal cartridges with their DX codes would be expensive. An alternative would be printing conductive metal stickers, and that's also not cheap.

I have never had use for the DX codes. None of my cameras uses it, and I like to be in control over the camera anyway.

Do any of their films come in metal cartridges ? I would have thought they would all be plastic .
Most of the 35mm film I use is B&W which I buy bulk roll's of , so isn't an issue for me either .
It's it the odd roll of colour I put threw that's pre done , but being Kodak it's coded anyway .
The only other film I use in 35mm is Rollie infrared . If it's loaded in a Dynax 9 I set the camera to ISO 320 , but most cameras I shoot in in manual expose with a spot meter set to ISO 6 .
Just thought adding the foil to the label with the amount they sell would be better for the customer .
If there's only a small choice of ISO's , not too many would need to be done if the machines were set up to apply two labels .
One for the DX coding and one for the emulsion type .

 

[Donald Qualls]

I've seen a hack where you cut down the shell from a DX coded cassette and wrap it around the one with your film in it. Not sure if all cameras will tolerate the extra millimeter or so that adds to the diameter, but it worked in the example case I saw. Handy for shooting, say, ISO 400 film at ISO 200 or similar, too. Another option would be a narrow strip of aluminum tape with label stock or masking tape applied to produce the correct DX code pattern -- but that's a lot of work for each cassette; wrapping another shell is much quicker/easier if your camera will accept it.

 

[Ti_Pierrot]

Check this page: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/594226/Nikon-F80.html?page=11
Foma films are not DX coded and will give an error message when loaded with film speed set to DX.

That was exactly the problem when I've put the camera not to check the DX coding then everything went fine. Something I'll remember for every camera and non DX film.

 

[Danner]

I shoot film wit a Nikon N80 (the USA version) all the time. Manual DX is the way to go. BTW, the N80 (F80) is a great film body. Put an AF Nikkor 50/1.8D on it, and you've got a great little, and light weight, film set up.

 

[railwayman3]

I've seen a hack where you cut down the shell from a DX coded cassette and wrap it around the one with your film in it. Not sure if all cameras will tolerate the extra millimeter or so that adds to the diameter, but it worked in the example case I saw. Handy for shooting, say, ISO 400 film at ISO 200 or similar, too. Another option would be a narrow strip of aluminum tape with label stock or masking tape applied to produce the correct DX code pattern -- but that's a lot of work for each cassette; wrapping another shell is much quicker/easier if your camera will accept it.

I can remember (a very long time ago) being able to buy stick-on labels, for use on home-loaded cassettes, which had relevant values of the DX codes printed on them in foil. They worked fine with the cameras I had then, but these labels probably not obtainable now ? Might still have some hidden away somewhere.

 

[reddesert]

I can remember (a very long time ago) being able to buy stick-on labels, for use on home-loaded cassettes, which had relevant values of the DX codes printed on them in foil. They worked fine with the cameras I had then, but these labels probably not obtainable now ? Might still have some hidden away somewhere.

Freestyle sells them. They're not super cheap, but the idea is to use them with reloadable cassettes.

 

[Ti_Pierrot]

I shoot film wit a Nikon N80 (the USA version) all the time. Manual DX is the way to go. BTW, the N80 (F80) is a great film body. Put an AF Nikkor 50/1.8D on it, and you've got a great little, and light weight, film set up.

I totally agree I shoot with my sigma 35mm 1.4 art and It's a joy. It's enough to me and way cheaper than almost all other AF body. Just 2 things that bothers me a bit is the brightness of the viewfinder and that you have only one button for both AF-L/AE-L (this one I've learned to live without).

 

[Donald Qualls]

Freestyle sells them. They're not super cheap, but the idea is to use them with reloadable cassettes.

And if I used cameras that read DX with any frequency, I'd have to get some of those.