When you press the power check button try and fire the shutter, if he battery check lights go out the batteries likely are too weak to run the camera. My F4s pauses on frame advance even though the battery check shows them good.
I had an MD15 that failed and replacing the battery holder cured the problem even though the contacts were clean and tested good with both Voltage and ohms test, it would not provide the correct current.
I would connect an amp meter and see how much current if any is being drawn and that the battery holder will supply sufficient current.
You can download the factory service manual for the F5 at http://arcticwolfs.net/
Reading through the service manual it states that the holders are designed not to operate if the or a battery is installed incorrectly. Likely a diode but could be a chip, suspect a failure here or at the switch(s).
Because most of them are not?This strategy doesn’t work with modern computer driven cars. Just lucky my mechanic is very ethical.
Do you have a dead pack that I can rebuild?I have 2 F5 cameras. The only thing I've ever had go bad is the antique rechargeable battery packs. I bought a couple rebuilt packs about 5 years back and they are still going strong. I would definitely recommend using fresh standard alkaline AA cells if using the standard battery tray.
It's amazing how much of an impact the F5 design has had on Nikon digital offerings. The single digit digital cameras feel like a F5, the D850 feels like a F100.
I'd blame the batteries. Read up on disadvantages of lithium batteries.
I'm hanging on to what I have. I have a battery I bought new in 2002. It's still hanging on .Do you have a dead pack that I can rebuild?
I was thinking of disassemble the pack and rebuild with brand new cells. I did that to the MN-2 battery for the Nikon F3 and it works better than new just because we have better cells today.I'm hanging on to what I have. I have a battery I bought new in 2002. It's still hanging on .
These packs have really bad memory issues. You can bring back some of these by running through consecutive refresh cycles with the charger. After a couple cycles the refresh cycle will get progressively longer, if the pack is still good it will get to a point where it takes several hours or overnight to discharge and then recharge. At first the cycle may only take a few minutes.
Absolutely. The packs I have that have been rebuilt were cut open, not sure how and had new cells installed, then glued back. Common NiMH cells. Too bad there's no rechargeable Lithium batteries that could be made to work. But that would be another mess.I was thinking of disassemble the pack and rebuild with brand new cells. I did that to the MN-2 battery for the Nikon F3 and it works better than new just because we have better cells today.
I wonder what Guydio concluded as the cause and what he did about it? He hasn't been seen 23 November
pentaxuser
Both cameras have been sitting in the cupboard. I'll get round to getting them repaired one day. One repairer offered to service them but quoted £150 each, plus any parts required, hence my initial reluctance.
Nikon recommends lithium so when I bought my new F5 in 2002 I bought lithium batteries for it. It works fine but I found not better than alkaline. So I don't use lithium any more.I don't see it mentioned, but have you tried to insert regular, run of the mill alkaline batteries? I seem to remember a post on the internet somewhere talking about problems that came about with using lithium batteries. I don't think the F5 played well with them.
Absolutely. The packs I have that have been rebuilt were cut open, not sure how and had new cells installed, then glued back. Common NiMH cells. Too bad there's no rechargeable Lithium batteries that could be made to work. But that would be another mess.
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