Nikon F3 To Fix...

ic-racer

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I took a chance bid on this Nikon F3 HP. I couldn't see the mirror (and the mirror lock is in the down position), and there was no picture of the back open. The emergency shutter release lever is pulled down. Obviously there is some attachment on the front of the camera.
Not sure what I was going to get.

Bottom picture is what I got when it arrives. At least I can see the mirror is down and the thing on the front is a coupled 11mm extension tube (aftermarket?).





 
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ic-racer

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To prepare myself, I found some nice youtube videos on CLA of the F3. Basically he cleans the shutter release solenoid and cleans the glass variable resistor under the take up knob, and cleans the contacts for the viewfinder illuminator. In spite of the title of one of the videos, he does not inspect the LCD screen.

 
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ic-racer

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First thing I did was to clean the exterior...looks pretty nice! Wonder if it works?

 
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Inspecting the back, it appears as if a film cassette has never been in the chamber. Looks brand new. There are some exterior signs of use, so it is not 'new' but not many rolls of film have ever passed through it.
It was missing the rubber eyepiece glass, but I had a spare and installed it.



 
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ic-racer

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Shutter test:

32mm Opening Curtain time: 10.5ms
32mm Closing Curtain time: 10.4ms

Speed tested EV Error
1s 0
2 0
4 0
8 0
16 0
32 0
64 0
128 +0.1
256 +0.1
512 +0.1
1024 +0.2
2048 0
 
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ic-racer

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Exposure meter test:

EV 5 0 error
EV 9 0 error
EV 16 +0.5 error


Auto Exposure Test

EV 5 +0.16 EV
EV 9 +0 .18 EV
EV 16 +0.14 EV
 
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ic-racer

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Focusing test with film. The image focuses nearly perfectly on the focus screen and 0.031mm in front of film in the film gate with my test lens.




 
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ic-racer

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Other things test fine. For example, the T and B and mechanical emergency release work.
Mirror up works.
X synch is 1.06ms after second curtain is fully open (WNL).
LCD screen is fine, no bleeding or dropped segments.
LCD illuminator works, but fiddly as expected.
Film advance is smooth. Finder is clean and clear without fungus or haze.

So, there appears to be nothing wrong with the camera. The 1/1000 is a little slow around 1/880, but within ISO limits, I won't be chasing after that.
 

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It looks cosmetically attractive, but will you take the risk to pay what it takes to make it fully operative? That is a question only you can answer.
 

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Looks like it's beautiful and would be a joy to use. A nice surprise that nothing is wrong with it.
 
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ic-racer

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Ok, so I started using it and I can't believe they did this. The + and - for manual metering are reversed from all other Nikons! I must have read about ten 'reviews' of the F3 while I was waiting for the mailman. No one else mentioned that, so I was a little unprepared. F Photomic, F2 DS-1, 11, 12, F90X, N75, N55, many others I suspect too, have the + on the left and - on the right. Maybe they just wanted you to leave the F3 in "A"!
 
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Andreas Thaler

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ic-racer said:
LCD illuminator works, but fiddly as expected.
Click to expand...





Behind the infamous red push button there is a piezo element and a tiny metal plate. If the contacts are clean again, the LCD illumination (mini light bulb) will work properly again and without any danger to your fingernail when pressing the button

Congratulations on hitting the jackpot on the used market!
 
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ic-racer

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Oh yes, I forgot to mention your threads on the F3!
 

Andreas Thaler

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ic-racer said:
Oh yes, I forgot to mention your threads on the F3!
Click to expand...

Why, they don't play a role here, it's just about the detail of the viewfinder illumination.

Anything else would be hijacking your thread

So I have removed the links, the pictures are sufficient.
 
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ic-racer

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Andreas Thaler said:
Why, they don't play a role here, it's just about the detail of the viewfinder illumination.

Anything else would be hijacking your thread

So I have removed the links, the pictures are sufficient.
Click to expand...

You also had insight to the AE 'hold' button workings. Looks like on my camera that button is intact and maybe the metal version.

The accessory light switch cleaning is very relevant.
 

Andreas Thaler

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ic-racer said:
You also had insight to the AE 'hold' button workings. Looks like on my camera that button is intact and maybe the metal version.

The accessory light switch cleaning is very relevant.
Click to expand...

Thank you, I didn't mean to intrude here, I just got carried away with enthusiasm again
 
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ic-racer

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I probably won't be opening this one up, so anything you can add is great.
 

4season

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Wow, love the timing accuracy of that shutter! But if a shutter fault were causing uneven exposure at one end of the frame, would this be easy to catch with that tester? I ask this because my F3 has an issue with 1/2000th second, and only 1/2000, and in fact, the service manual has a specific procedure for addressing it, but I've been kind of lazy.
 

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ic-racer said:
I probably won't be opening this one up, so anything you can add is great.
Click to expand...

I just write down what comes to mind, maybe there is something useful for you:
  • With the F3, you can feel how much it has been used by looking at the winding lever. If it releases tightly into the ready position and the shutter is cocked with almost no resistance, that's a good sign. Here, the rotation is done via ball bearings.
  • The two rotary switches for on/off and the self-timer tend to get sticky, especially the latter, as it is rarely used.
  • The LCD can lose digits, probably due to corrosion of the contacts and/or become paler. Replacing it is easy, but you need a replacement from another F3, and even broken ones are expensive and hard to get hold of. If you need something, I have reserved an LCD for you from my stock.
  • The mirror can get tired due to a lack of lubrication. Removing the mirror box should be less complicated than with the Minolta X, for example, but I had problems coupling the mechanics when reinstalling it. But I probably hadn't studied the technical documentation closely enough.
  • The FRE (Functional Resistance Element) on the left for setting the ASA value is on a glass plate and can break, but replacing it is easy.
  • The override for the exposure there can become stiff if it gets dirty, but it is also easy to clean.
  • The mechanics are heavy duty, everything is designed to be solid.
  • The SPT Journal, the Service Manual and the C & C Troubleshooting Guide are available for repair/technical documentation.
  • The MD-4 Motor Drive is the crowning glory of the F3. As it is controlled electronically via the camera, there are no synchronization restrictions like with the MD-1 and MD-2 for the F2, and any shutter speed can be used in C(ontinous) mode.
  • The system is large, and anyone who likes to collect is at risk
  • Nikon F3 Technical Manual at https://www.pacificrimcamera.com/rl/00353/00353.pdf
  • Peter Class had dedicated what is probably the most beautiful and informative book to the Nikon F3, I only know a German version: Die Nikon F3 - Praxis und Technik https://www.lindemanns.de/shop/foto...buch-digitales-filmen-mit-der-foto-kamera.php
 
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ic-racer

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Gerat list!

I also thought I had viewed everyting I could find on the F3, but missed that "Tehcnical Manual" That was great!
 
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ic-racer

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The film chamber looked like a cassette had never been placed in the camera. But maybe they used paint that won't scuff.

However, I shot one roll of film and, now there are marks. So it really looks like the camera never had any film in it.

 
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ic-racer

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Film chamber of the F2 Photomic DP-1 camera for comparison:
 

Mick Fagan

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I was interested in looking at my oldest F3 body after seeing the picture of your F3.

This is my most used F3 body with at least 3,500 rolls of 36 frame film throughput. Around 2,000 rolls would've been done with reloadable plastic film cassettes, the rest all factory supplied metal units.

 
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ic-racer

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Your F3 Looks very nice for all those rolls, thank you for sharing this.

That would put that camera's shutter at 126,000 out of an expected 150,000. I suspect it still functions fine, is that right?

That F2 I posted above shows much more wear than my other F2 bodies. I'm surprised by the marks considering the F2 (unlike the F3) has a little standoff in the body casting so the cassette cap only is supposed to touch in a 2mm spot.
 
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