Nikon F3 Problems

[andrew.roos]

I've got hold of a Nikon F3 for a very reasonable price, but it's obviously had a hard life and has a couple of problems:

1. It's missing the cap that covers the motor drive contacts. Anyone know where I can find a reasonably priced replacement cap?

2. The 2, 4 and 8" shutter speeds are not working - they take much less time than they should. I don't have a shutter speed tester, but while 1" feels about right, slower speeds open and close the shutter for a very short time - of the order of 1/30" or faster. Longer speeds do appear to work correctly on aperture priority auto. Does anyone here know what might be the problem, and whether it's even worth looking at myself, or should I just live with it or send it in for repair?

3. There's a whirring sound on the slow (1" and 1/2") shutter speeds. It sounds like a mechanically timed shutter but - AFAIK - the F3 is electronically timed at all speeds. Anyone know what that might be? There's no motor drive.

4. The film counter does not reset when I open the back or load and advance a new film. Any idea what might cause this, and how I could fix it?

Thanks
Andrew

 

[Richard S. (rich815)]

How much did you pay and can you return? They are tanks and while many have been used and abused there's plenty for very reasonable prices that are not missing crucial parts and work fine. For example I got mine for about $100 and while aesthetically ugly works like a finely-oiled machine. And it's an HP finder too.

 

[anfenglin]

My F3 seems to be having a similar problem, on auto, the slower speeds sometimes take a too short time, the pictures are massively underexposed. When I take the shot again a the same exposure time, it works. Also, I now roughly know what a 1/8 second is supposed to sound, the slower ones often sound more like a 1/60. Anyway, I have no problem with this. It's a minor inconvenience at best, not worth sending it in for repair.
The frame counter problem most often comes from the light seals in the back having become a slimy, gooey substance that sticks to everything. The frame counter normally is being reset when you open the back, on the top right side under the frame advance somewhere is a small silver tab, that pops out and the frame counter is reset. Your F3, having been on a motor drive (that's the reason the motor cap is missing) most definitely needs new seals, the smudge holding the tab back so it can't pop out. Check if that's the case, if not, maybe it just needs a service.

 

[Terry Breedlove]

I love my little F3 hp. At the prices for a good one I would just find another instead of sending it out for repairs.

 

[andrew.roos]

How much did you pay and can you return?

I got it for about $20 along with a non-functioning MD-4 motor drive, and a Nikkor-O 35mm f/2 which has been (crudely) AI modified. I figured that, if worst comes to worst, I will use it as a spare parts donor when I get one in better shape.

Part of the problem with getting a better one is that shipping to South Africa will cost me about $60 on top of the purchase price, along with 15% import tax payable this end. So a $ 100 camera becomes about a $ 175 camera by the time it gets here!

 

[Richard S. (rich815)]

I got it for about $20 along with a non-functioning MD-4 motor drive, and a Nikkor-O 35mm f/2 which has been (crudely) AI modified. I figured that, if worst comes to worst, I will use it as a spare parts donor when I get one in better shape.

Part of the problem with getting a better one is that shipping to South Africa will cost me about $60 on top of the purchase price, along with 15% import tax payable this end. So a $ 100 camera becomes about a $ 175 camera by the time it gets here!

Glad to hear that. Hope it had the rubber eyepiece ring at least, those go for $15-20 themselves and many otherwise working cameras have been stripped of those. Was hoping you didn't pay $80-100....

 

[gone]

For that price, unless you absolutely need those speeds (and I seriously doubt that any of us do), I would just live w/ it. Electrical tape makes a dandy cover for those contacts. Use the money you would spend to fix those speeds or replace the camera with for film, chemicals, and papers. Anyway, that's my philosophy.

 

[ronnies]

Have you checked the slot in the MD4 battery tray for the contact cover ?

Ronnie

 

[andrew.roos]

Thanks Ronnie, I have - unfortunately it's not there.

Andrew

 

[andrew.roos]

For that price, unless you absolutely need those speeds (and I seriously doubt that any of us do), I would just live w/ it. Electrical tape makes a dandy cover for those contacts. Use the money you would spend to fix those speeds or replace the camera with for film, chemicals, and papers. Anyway, that's my philosophy.

Good advice!

 

[andrew.roos]

Glad to hear that. Hope it had the rubber eyepiece ring at least, those go for $15-20 themselves and many otherwise working cameras have been stripped of those. Was hoping you didn't pay $80-100....

Yes, that at least is present

 

[frank]

Yes, that at least is present

So think of the camera attached to the rubber eyepiece ring, as a bonus.

 

[Chan Tran]

I think it can be adjusted.

 

[Richard S. (rich815)]

Yes, that at least is present

Ha! Then rest was almost free!

 

[andrew.roos]

Thanks to everyone who replied with helpful or amusing suggestions.

Well the way I'm figuring this, I have

- rubber eyepiece
- DE-2 finder
- E (grid lines) focusing screen
- A 35mm lens (admittedly, not in the best shape)

And, having held and felt this camera, I want one.

So all I need now is an F3HP. Then I'll have a body with 35mm lens, choice of finders, a choice of focus screens, a spare eyepiece and a whole bucket load of spare parts.

Andrew