I believe you meant to say the tiny viewfinder magnification - hence longer eye-relief, offers a squinty view.
Remember, you either get more eye-relief or larger viewfinder magnification.
I was aware it was designed for people who wore glasses (I didn't then, but do now!), and the big viewfinder offered a commanding view of the world.
I believe you meant to say the tiny viewfinder magnification - hence longer eye-relief, offers a squinty view.
Remember, you either get more eye-relief or larger viewfinder magnification.
I don't remember exactly, Les in terms of squinting or viewfinder size, other than to say everything about the F3, including the big pentaprism/eyepiece, was BIG.. All I do remember is churning out many hundreds of Kodachrome 200 slides, only beaten in quantity a couple of years later with the arrival of the Canon T90...
Some of the other Nikon bodies may as well have been called high point. My n8008s and n90 bodies had huge, bright viewfinders that made focusing manual focus lenses very nice. I could see pretty much the whole frame on them even w/ my glasses on.
According to the manual, the N90 has an equally tiny viewfinder of only 0.78X magnification which as you confirm is ideal for you to use it with your glasses on.
I had Canon EOS 1V with an even tinier viewfinder magnification of 0.72X. I can understand autofocus cameras having tiny viewfinders as focusing is now more dependent on the camera with so much more info crowding the viewfinder.
Finders like the Pentax MX or Olympus OM-1/2 with magnifications over 0.9x are nigh-unusable for a lot of people.
Where did you get that idea? Experience?Finders like the Pentax MX or Olympus OM-1/2 with magnifications over 0.9x are nigh-unusable for a lot of people.
By all means do a test, it will satisfy any GAS you have.I have HP and DE2 finders, I prefer the DE2.
I have both the Nikon F3HP and the Pentax LX, the latter with several viewfinders - the standard, what might be called the chimney finder (straight down with diopter adjustment), the base unit with the 45 degree and the swivel high point finder. The chimney finder is good for horizontal closeup work. The high point is excellent, but as you'd expect the image size is less than the basic finder. For tripod work I generally use the Pentax right angle finder which will rotate for horizontal or vertical use, has a focusing ocular, and will switch from normal to 2x magnification. Plus it slides onto the basic prism eyepiece and will fit, I think, all K series bodies, both film and digital. A wonderful system. (BTW, the Pentax RF finder for the K cameras will also fit the Olympus OM cameras, and of course vice versa.)Short answer, yes, that one.
The Pentax unit is a great system viewfinder concept, you interchange the rear end with either a standard finder at 45º, or a close up finder at 45º, or the action finder at 90º. They can be convenient, they can be swiveled (if my memory is correct) but I must confess I have never seen any of them in the flesh being used. I did see one at a trade show, but the price in this country was phenomenal and to be honest I think Pentax sort of missed the boat with manual focus professional bodies, something I never really understood as Pentax sold absolutely squillions of cameras compared to Canon and Nikon. Perhaps there was more money to be made catering to the mass amateur market than the professional market, I just don't know.
The Canon system on the New F1 was probably the most interesting, I have used this system of viewfinders and did like it.
The action viewfinder for the F3 is bigger and better for the worst possible shooting situations, that is from my own personal experience. Comparing only the Nikon and Canon here as I have never seen the Pentax unit fitted with these viewfinders being used.
Mick.
Advantage: Pentax. The LX is far more user friendly for closeup and macro work.
Since it was the longest production Nikon, getting accessories for it is easy.View attachment 208519 Damn, I just acquired a “minty” F3, and now I’m considering the MD-4 motor drive.
I really wonder why so many people add gizmos to the shutter buttons of their cameras. I've owned all kind of cameras with shutter buttons in all kind of places - to the right, to the left, in the front, on top, at the bottom, 45° angled, vertically actuated, horizontally actuated, fully mechanical, fully electronic, hybrid - and I never felt as they were hard to reach and to engage.
Is it a sort of Inspector Gadget syndrome perhaps?
View attachment 208519 Damn, I just acquired a “minty” F3, and now I’m considering the MD-4 motor drive.
I really wonder why so many people add gizmos to the shutter buttons of their cameras. I've owned all kind of cameras with shutter buttons in all kind of places - to the right, to the left, in the front, on top, at the bottom, 45° angled, vertically actuated, horizontally actuated, fully mechanical, fully electronic, hybrid - and I never felt as they were hard to reach and to engage.
Is it a sort of Inspector Gadget syndrome perhaps?
I really wonder why so many people add gizmos to the shutter buttons of their cameras. I've owned all kind of cameras with shutter buttons in all kind of places - to the right, to the left, in the front, on top, at the bottom, 45° angled, vertically actuated, horizontally actuated, fully mechanical, fully electronic, hybrid - and I never felt as they were hard to reach and to engage.
Is it a sort of Inspector Gadget syndrome perhaps?
As Les mentions, there are all sorts of accessories for the F3.
Running an MD4 with an MF-18 data back is really something, especially if you bulk load.
The MF-18 imprints between the frames, you can have the date, time or sequential numbers imprinted. Contrary to literature available, you can use this data back without the MD4 attached, you just have to ensure you fully wind on each frame and remember to take a little care for the extended data back protruding. Done it many times.
What I really like about the MF-18 data back, is that it automatically stops the re-wind, leaving the leader sticking out, allowing me to tear off the film leader so I know that roll has been exposed.
I also have the MF-6B camera back for the F3, this has the extended piece that stops the re-wind leaving the film leader out; I got that accessory before I found the MF-18 data back.
Mick.
Having a soft release shutter cover, is a great way to keep water ingress out of the inner parts of the F3. Many times I have been shooting in light rain sometimes reasonably heavy rain; I always have my shutter covered in those conditions.
Mick.
I have limited strength and dexterity in my right hand. An accessory soft release which raises the height of the release and increases the size of the target area really assists me with some cameras.
Now if only I could find one that stays where it belongs!
I wouldn't say an F3 is rain proof, but over the decades I have gotten it quite wet at times, sometimes accidentally. I well remember the first time I was in a real sub zero environment, think -25ºC and I walked inside to a house that was around 21ºC with my camera in my hand. I placed the camera on a side board in the kitchen and went to change out of heavy clothing and forgot about the camera. About five minutes later someone asked, "who had poured water over the camera?"
For clarity I must state that I grew up in a rather mild climate area of the world and didn't see snow until I was in my late 20's; even then, that snow was on top of a mountain in the middle of summer and was really ice, but I didn't know that at the time.
My precious F3 was literally dripping water and water was seemingly seeping inside various places. I quickly re-wound the film and opened the camera up and pulled the prism, lens and camera back off to aid the drying process. I wouldn't suggest it is waterproof by a long shot, but with care it can be used in light to moderate rain; something which my first F3 has had happen to it many times. It still works very well, but it is certainly showing signs of wear and tear.
Mick.
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