Nikon F3 consistently meters hot...

[Ariston]

I am busy on the forum today!

I just bought an "as is" F3. And although it is not pretty, it works well. The only real functional problem is that the meter measures hot by 1 and 1/3 stops. It is not a real problem (it is consistent) since I can just keep exposure compensation dialed in. But if anyone has experienced this and it is a simple enough fix, then I would just as soon fix it.

If you have had this issue and been able to resolve it, please let me know. Thanks!

 

[flavio81]

I am busy on the forum today!

I just bought an "as is" F3. And although it is not pretty, it works well. The only real functional problem is that the meter measures hot by 1 and 1/3 stops. It is not a real problem (it is consistent) since I can just keep exposure compensation dialed in. But if anyone has experienced this and it is a simple enough fix, then I would just as soon fix it.

If you have had this issue and been able to resolve it, please let me know. Thanks!

1.33 stops is a lot of difference. It will have to be taken to a tech so it is checked. Something must be wrong with the camera, it's OK for a meter to drift a bit like 1/3rd of a stop, but the difference you show might be some electrical problem (bad contacts, etc).

 

[Christiaan Phleger]

Make sure the batteries are good; then try moving thru the full range of movement of the Exposure compensation and ISO settings while the meter is on and check again. That part of the F3 can get damaged from impact and can show up as a strong meter error. If that part is cracked like it can then at some part of moving all thru the range it'll hit a jumpy part and give a wrong reading (or correct). one way to know what to fix, most F3 have a very consistent shutter and meter.

 

[BrianShaw]

Do what RidingWaves suggests... twice!

Also double check that the tab that reads aperture from the lens is properly in place.

What are you using to determine your reference exposure?

 

[flavio81]

Make sure the batteries are good; then try moving thru the full range of movement of the Exposure compensation and ISO settings while the meter is on and check again. That part of the F3 can get damaged from impact and can show up as a strong meter error. If that part is cracked like it can then at some part of moving all thru the range it'll hit a jumpy part and give a wrong reading (or correct). one way to know what to fix, most F3 have a very consistent shutter and meter.

Just FYI the "part" RidingWaves is referring to is the FRE (functional resistance element) that is inside the camera and below the rewind lever/ISO dial.

Also, be sure the AI coupling ring around the lens mount moves smoothly and returns smoothly to its starting position.

 

[Ariston]

Thanks, all. I am going to work the ISO and compensation rings and see what happens. I am using an iPhone app for my reference. I have tried a gray card in different lighting, and the F3 wants to overexpose about 1 stop at a consistent rate. It does not have the K type screen, which I think may be the standard (no split image, I think it is B type), but I'm not sure the screen would affect it by a full stop...

 

[flavio81]

Thanks, all. I am going to work the ISO and compensation rings and see what happens. I am using an iPhone app for my reference.

Facepalm.

Please compare using a camera with a SPD (silicon photodiode) meter or another Nikon F3. Or, in any case, make sure you are comparing using daylight and framing a gray card or a evenly lit wall.

 

[Chan Tran]

There are many adjustments that needed to be made. If you don't feel comfortable you should have a technician does it for you.
Basically the procedure are:
1. Checking the accuracy of manual shutter speed.
2. Checking the meter output
3 Checking the AUTO shutter speed.
4. Checking the meter display.
most of the adjustments are at the bottom of the camera and under the leatherette on the left side of the camera (rewind side).

 

[Ariston]

Facepalm.

Please compare using a camera with a SPD (silicon photodiode) meter or another Nikon F3. Or, in any case, make sure you are comparing using daylight and framing a gray card or a evenly lit wall.

Hi Flavio,

I have checked my iPhone light meter against a 1 degree spot meter and the spot meter in my D700. The trick is to be sure that the gray card (evenly lit, as you say) fills the frame for the iPhone. It is spot on - I can't imagine that the F3 is right and my spot meter, D700, and iPhone are all wrong. I guess it's possible...

 

[BrianShaw]

Make sure you are measuring a consistent/diffuse surface so your not getting thrown off by the F3 60:40 center-weighting.

 

[Paul Howell]

For a ball park use Sunny 16, set ISO 100, sunny mid day, meter should read 125th at F16.

 

[Arvee]

Actually, the F3 has an 80/20 meter distribution ratio. And, the F3 I bought new in'89, was about +2/3 stop hot IIRC.

 

[Ariston]

I have checked the metering carefully, on various opaque surfaces in different lighting, filling the frame to remove any instances of the 80/20 averaging, and against Sunny 16. I am sure of where it is metering.

Actually, the F3 has an 80/20 meter distribution ratio. And, the F3 I bought new in'89, was about +2/3 stop hot IIRC.

That is interesting. This one is very consistent, so I am not nervous to use it at all; I was just curious if there was an easy fix.

I have rotated and checked the ISO and compensation dials, but no change. I'm just going to leave the comp dial set and go with it.

Thank you everyone.

 

[BrianShaw]

Actually, the F3 has an 80/20 meter distribution ratio.

Your right... I must have gone temporarily stupid!

 

[beemermark]

The only way to check the meter is to shoot film. I have a number of different cameras and 2 or 3 hand meters. No two will measure the same. Sometimes the difference is small and sometimes over 1 stop different. But the B&W film always comes out right were I want it. What the meter "sees" as far as field is different and different types of meter cells see color different. I gave up comparing meters years ago.

 

[Ariston]

The only way to check the meter is to shoot film. I have a number of different cameras and 2 or 3 hand meters. No two will measure the same. Sometimes the difference is small and sometimes over 1 stop different. But the B&W film always comes out right were I want it. What the meter "sees" as far as field is different and different types of meter cells see color different. I gave up comparing meters years ago.

I agree with you on this - especially red, in my experience. One stop difference is pretty significant with slide film, so I am glad it is consistent enough to where I feel comfortable using it.

 

[Sirius Glass]

One and a third stops is too much for ISO compensation, send it out for the light meter calibration. The money will be a great worthwhile investment.

 

[ic-racer]

You can put the exposed and processed zone I negative over the lens of the iphone and see if it drops exposure by one-third of a stop. If the processed negative drops exposure by more than 1/3 of a stop, the camera is over-exposing.

 

[CMoore]

One and a third stops is too much for ISO compensation, send it out for the light meter calibration. The money will be a great worthwhile investment.

It seems like that is the correct answer for 97% of these scenarios.
The camera is old...Might/Probably never have been to a tech.... it is way past due for an oil change.

Send it to Zacks, or any decent tech, and have it straightened out.

 

[Ariston]

I shot a roll through it and the negatives came out perfectly with [-1] dialed in. It is a beater that I bought "as-is", so I'm not going to send it in because it is way too rough. I usually will send cameras in, but if I am spending the money on service (it isn't cheap to me), I will first start with a camera that is in decent general shape.

 

[waffles]

One and a third stops is too much for ISO compensation, send it out for the light meter calibration. The money will be a great worthwhile investment.

Who is left who works on the Nikon F3? I own one and am considering selling it precisely because there's no place I can find left that services it.

 

[CMoore]

It seems like that is the correct answer for 97% of these scenarios.
The camera is old...Might/Probably never have been to a tech.... it is way past due for an oil change.

Send it to Zacks, or any decent tech, and have it straightened out.

Who is left who works on the Nikon F3? I own one and am considering selling it precisely because there's no place I can find left that services it.

 

[Huss]

I shot a roll through it and the negatives came out perfectly with [-1] dialed in. It is a beater that I bought "as-is", so I'm not going to send it in because it is way too rough. I usually will send cameras in, but if I am spending the money on service (it isn't cheap to me), I will first start with a camera that is in decent general shape.

Having a beater that works perfectly is even better! You no longer worry about cosmetics/dings/dents but can use it knowing that the important stuff is ok.
I have a battered black Nikon F like that.

 

[Ariston]

Who is left who works on the Nikon F3? I own one and am considering selling it precisely because there's no place I can find left that services it.

As has been mentioned, I've used Zacks and been happy with Michael's service. I have also used Camera Service Pro (cameraservicepro.com), which is local to me. Both of these guys can work on them and both do a good job. I wouldn't call either one cheap, or expensive, but they are capable.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Who is left who works on the Nikon F3? I own one and am considering selling it precisely because there's no place I can find left that services it.

Call Samys, Steve's Camera Repair and Tempe Camera as see which, if any, will.