I keep dipping it in water, but that only seems to make it worse...If the camera meters hot it either needs repair or additional cooling.
Thanks for that - I actually looked at that. I don't know what I am looking for, but it seems to hinge back and forth smoothly and seems to be in position.With a Nikon F3 that meters overexposure consistently, first thing that I check is the small half mirror located behind the main mirror. This half mirror takes light that passes through the main mirror section that is semi-silvered and squirts it to the SPD located in the bottom of the mirror box. A small impact can cause the small mirror to get displaced out of its groove and cause incorrect readings. You can see this small mirror attached to the back of the main mirror if you carefully lift up the mirror. It is hinged to the mirror back frame.
Are you sure? I think the F-3 SPD meter sensor is below the mirror in the mirror box.Metering on the F3 is mostly confined to the finder.
The F3 is one camera which has its meter totally in the body. Newer cameras like the F4 and F5 have some metering system in the body but they have the meter in the viewfinder too. The F3 metering system both ambient and TTL flash is done with the SPD at the bottom of the mirror box. The viewfinder has no metering. Even the LCD display is in the body and not in the viewfinder. You can actually use the F3 with full meter or aperture priority auto without the viewfinder.Metering on the F3 is mostly confined to the finder. Perhaps try to find ( a friend's, or a camera shop?) an accurately working F3, and swap finders to narrow down the problem.
Another thought is to try a different focussing screen; the screen you describe is a Type D, specialized for close-up. Try to find a Type A screen. I suggest this is possible, because the F4, an advanced later model, allows for adjustment to compensate for different screens; perhaps the F3 also had that problem.
Finally, I can't see where you've mentioned what lens you have on the camera. Perhaps try a new (er) lens, as the older lenses may require stop-down metering.
Are you sure? I think the F-3 SPD meter sensor is below the mirror in the mirror box.
The F3 is one camera which has its meter totally in the body. Newer cameras like the F4 and F5 have some metering system in the body but they have the meter in the viewfinder too. The F3 metering system both ambient and TTL flash is done with the SPD at the bottom of the mirror box. The viewfinder has no metering. Even the LCD display is in the body and not in the viewfinder. You can actually use the F3 with full meter or aperture priority auto without the viewfinder.
The F3 is one camera which has its meter totally in the body. Newer cameras like the F4 and F5 have some metering system in the body but they have the meter in the viewfinder too. The F3 metering system both ambient and TTL flash is done with the SPD at the bottom of the mirror box. The viewfinder has no metering. Even the LCD display is in the body and not in the viewfinder. You can actually use the F3 with full meter or aperture priority auto without the viewfinder.
Yes, they meter through the finder.So why is compensation needed when using certain focusing screens on the FE, FM2, and FM3A? Do these have some metering in the finder?
The FE, FM2 and FM3A like most SLR and even DSLR have their metering system entirely in the viewfinder. The F3 approach is actually rare. There may be some like it but I really don't know o. The Olympus OM2 used the meter in the body for auto exposure but uses the meter in the viewfinder for manual. The F4 and F5 have their spot meter in the body but center weighted and matrix are in the viewfinder.So why is compensation needed when using certain focusing screens on the FE, FM2, and FM3A? Do these have some metering in the finder? If the light is just hitting the mirror and going down to the meter, it doesn't seem that there would need to be compensation, regardless of the focusing screen.
sunny 16 is one of the more trust-worthy metering checks!I have checked the metering carefully, on various opaque surfaces in different lighting, filling the frame to remove any instances of the 80/20 averaging, and against Sunny 16. I am sure of where it is metering.
That is interesting. This one is very consistent, so I am not nervous to use it at all; I was just curious if there was an easy fix.
I have rotated and checked the ISO and compensation dials, but no change. I'm just going to leave the comp dial set and go with it.
Thank you everyone.
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