Nope, the trick is to not let go of the rewind crank once you start. When I was a kid I could rewind those things in 10 seconds. If you keep tension on the crank it won't uncoil. Smooth and steady, I don't think a plain prism makes it any easier. MD2 motor drive has powered rewindIf your F2 is not metered, take a hike.
I have quite a few 35mm SLR.
The F2 is, By Far, the most difficult to rewind. My hands are not super big, but the prism always gets in the way.
Do you guys pull the prism when you rewind.?
Thank You
I understand the OP's point. My solution is the MD2. Problem solved.If your F2 is not metered, take a hike.
I have quite a few 35mm SLR.
The F2 is, By Far, the most difficult to rewind. My hands are not super big, but the prism always gets in the way.
Do you guys pull the prism when you rewind.?
Thank You
I am not sure if i explained my problem. It is not that i lose grip and the film "unwinds"Nope, the trick is to not let go of the rewind crank once you start. When I was a kid I could rewind those things in 10 seconds. If you keep tension on the crank it won't uncoil. Smooth and steady, I don't think a plain prism makes it any easier. MD2 motor drive has powered rewind
I guess that would solve my problem.I understand the OP's point. My solution is the MD2. Problem solved.
Oh Wow.....i had no idea.The original design is you are supposed to pull the rewind lever out to the first click stop to rewind, not just flip out the lever. What is supposed to happen at the first click stop is the rewind shaft telescopes out, but the prong remains engaged with the film cassette. (I'm not sure if you are doing this, but the manual points it out.) Unfortunately for me, the first click sometimes works as designed, but sometimes it pulls the prong on the first click, then telescopes on the second.
EDIT: See page 9:
http://www.cameramanuals.org/nikon_pdf/nikon_f2_photomic.pdf
The original design is you are supposed to pull the rewind lever out to the first click stop to rewind, not just flip out the lever. What is supposed to happen at the first click stop is the rewind shaft telescopes out, but the prong remains engaged with the film cassette. (I'm not sure if you are doing this, but the manual points it out.) Unfortunately for me, the first click sometimes works as designed, but sometimes it pulls the prong on the first click, then telescopes on the second.
EDIT: See page 9:
http://www.cameramanuals.org/nikon_pdf/nikon_f2_photomic.pdf
What he ^^ said.The original design is you are supposed to pull the rewind lever out to the first click stop to rewind, not just flip out the lever. What is supposed to happen at the first click stop is the rewind shaft telescopes out, but the prong remains engaged with the film cassette. (I'm not sure if you are doing this, but the manual points it out.) Unfortunately for me, the first click sometimes works as designed, but sometimes it pulls the prong on the first click, then telescopes on the second.
EDIT: See page 9:
http://www.cameramanuals.org/nikon_pdf/nikon_f2_photomic.pdf
Oh Wow.....i had no idea.
Thank You So Much
When I bought my F2AS back in 1977 I thought i would get the MD-2 but I never did because the price of the MD-2/MB-1 combo was over $800. I bought the F3HP + MD-4 for $700 and I used them as my motor driven camera. Now the MD-2/MB-1 is relatively cheap but the F2AS is too expensive. Someone stole my F2AS in 1984 and I can't bring myself to pay more than the price I paid for it new ($550) for a used one.Who needs to rewind? That's what the MD2 is for!
You're supposed to what now? I've only owned my F2s for about 3 or 4 years now. Did not know this...The original design is you are supposed to pull the rewind lever out to the first click stop to rewind, not just flip out the lever.
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