Nikon F2 meter issues???

BradS · Mar 20, 2019

After listing after the Nikon F2 for a few years, I finally bought one...well, two. One has a dp-1 and the other has a dp-11. Both behave the same. The needle is stable but at least two, maybe three stops off - over exposure. This is with fresh batteries. I tried swapping meters and bodies - no difference was observed.

I bought these on eBay and I’m trying to decide whether or not to send em back.

I guess my question is....what should I look for? Is this an easy fix or ???

Any advice is appreciated.

KN4SMF · Mar 21, 2019

In all likelihood in both cameras you have at least 1 meter cell that has gone bad. While it is possible a resistor has changed value instead of the metering cells going bad, the result would be the same, although more easily replaceable. Resistors do change value. And simple resistors ARE in series with the meter cells. But the chances are less for bad resistors than for meter cells going bad. What essentially happens is that the meter cells go non-linear. The may be accurate at one light level and not another. since the adjustment potentiometers allow no more than about 1/2-3/4 stop of correction, and you are 2-3 stops off, then I'm afraid you're cooked. I have done quite a bit of meter work in my day and speak with confidence in my diagnosis.

BMbikerider · Mar 21, 2019

There is an independent repairer in UK who will repair the meter cells 100%. He works on no other cameras but Nikon F2 models. The damaged/no working cells are made by him andif replaced come with a very long guarantee of working and accuracy. His charges are not cheap but I can vouch for the standard of his workmanship. If you google Sover Wong Nikon F2 repair you will get his very comprehensive website and a guide to what he charges for his work. He is a Nikon trained engineer and has all the necessary tools needed to carry out the work whatever it is. He also has a 'Black Museum' of photographs where repairs have been done by untrained engineers - they are in some cases horrific what they will do.

He will take in work from all over the world

jimjm · Mar 21, 2019

Brad - I was going to recommend Camera Clinic in Shoreline, WA, as they did a great job overhauling and doing a voltage conversion on a Nikon F FTn meter head I have. Perfect LN condition, but it sat unused for over 40 years. It was reading 5 stops off and now it works like new, so it is possible to have these F and F2 meter heads serviced. Unfortunately they closed down last year.
In California, I would try Cameraquest to have your DP-1 or DP-11 serviced. Otherwise, Sover Wong is the recognized expert on all things F2. Good Luck!

msage · Mar 21, 2019

jimjm said:
Brad - I was going to recommend Camera Clinic in Shoreline, WA. Unfortunately they closed down last year.
!

Sorry to hear about the closing of the Camera Clinic closing.

macfred · Mar 21, 2019

I actually have three F2 (two with DP-1 - one finder is in working condition, the other finder is faulty). I thought about contacting Sover Wong but I decided to get another F2 with DE-1 -unmetered- plain prism for a good price. I'll kept all three - the faulty finder goes to the spare parts collection.
These days I prefer using the F2 with the unmetered prism - the DE-1 keeps the profile of the F2 small(er). It doesn’t do all the stuff that a metered finder does but the 'uncluttered' view I get from using the plain finder is more important for me. Usually I carry my Gossen Sixtomat or use the 'Sunny 11' - so no real need for a metered prism.
I still use the DP-1 finder - I once had the DP-11 finder too but always prefered the DP-1, because I use -almost exclusively- non-ai Nikkors.

Pieter12 · Mar 21, 2019

Where are you in California? There's Steve's Camera Service Center in Culver City.

BradS · Mar 21, 2019

KN4SMF said:
In all likelihood in both cameras you have at least 1 meter cell that has gone bad. ..... What essentially happens is that the meter cells go non-linear. The may be accurate at one light level and not another.....

Non-linear...Yup. This is exactly what I see. It is off by two stops in bright light and off by as much as five in low light.

BMbikerider said:
..... Sover Wong Nikon F2 repair ..... He also has a 'Black Museum' of photographs where repairs have been done by untrained engineers - they are in some cases horrific what they will do.

I love Mr. Wong's site. I'm gonna have to think about it. My gut says theres a competent repairer here in the US that can accomplish similar results with out the 14 month (!) queue.

jimjm said:
.....In California, I would try Cameraquest to have your DP-1 or DP-11 serviced. Otherwise, Sover Wong is the recognized expert on all things F2. Good Luck!

I did not know that Steven Gandy did repairs...and I did not know he was here in California! Thjanks!

macfred said:
....These days, I prefer using the F2 with the unmetered prism - the DE-1 keeps the profile of the F2 small(er)...... Usually I carry my Gossen Sixtomat or use the 'Sunny 11' .... because I use -almost exclusively- non-ai Nikkors.

Agreee!

Pieter12 said:
Where are you in California? There's Steve's Camera Service Center in Culver City.

I'm up in the Sierra foothils - just east of Sonora. Good to know. Thanks.

Theo Sulphate · Mar 21, 2019

Chances are you probably already know this, but I'll ask anyway: when you mount the lenses, are you twisting the aperture ring from max to min and back? When done correctly, the max aperture will appear in the metering head's window. If you don't do this, readings will be incorrect.

BradS · Mar 21, 2019

Theo Sulphate said:
Chances are you probably already know this, but I'll ask anyway: when you mount the lenses, are you twisting the aperture ring from max to min and back? When done correctly, the max aperture will appear in the metering head's window. If you don't do this, readings will be incorrect.

I'm familiar with the Nikkormat FT-N lens mount shuffle but the process with these F2 seems a little different from that for the Nikkormat FT-N.
With the Nikkormat, I set the lens to f/5.6 and move the auto indexing prong on the body clockwise to the stop, mount the lens and rotate the aperture ring back and forth a couple times...then check the red dot.

With the F2 (DP-1 and DP-11) , ithe process Ive been folloing is slightly less involved....set the lens wide open, mount the lens and rotate the aperture ring back and forth a couple times...
I admit, I came up with this just by gut feel...I dind't know about or think about that little window on the front of the DP-1 / DP-11.

Am I doing it correctly ? (I'm at work so cannot check directly at the moment)

Pieter12 · Mar 21, 2019

This is for the DP-2, but I assume it works the same for the DP-1.

Huss · Mar 21, 2019

BradS said:
I admit, I came up with this just by gut feel...I dind't know about or think about that little window on the front of the DP-1 / DP-11.

Am I doing it correctly ? (I'm at work so cannot check directly at the moment)

The little window on the front of the prism has to show the max aperture of your lens eg 1.2. If it doesn't, then you are either mounting it incorrectly or there is an issue with it.

BradS · Mar 21, 2019

Huss said:
The little window on the front of the prism has to show the max aperture of your lens eg 1.2. If it doesn't, then you are either mounting it incorrectly or there is an issue with it.

Got it. This'll be among the first think I play with / check when I get home tonight.

BradS · Mar 21, 2019

Pieter12 said:
This is for the DP-2, but I assume it works the same for the DP-1.

OK. Thanks. Given this, I'm pretty confident that what I did is correct.

Vilk · Mar 24, 2019

ya, they all "loose it" sooner in the lower range, all mine did... iirc, there are two pots under the leatherette to tweak hi and low independently, but don't quote me on that. personally, i didn't bother. when i lost confidence, i found buyers interested in tweaking pots and upgraded to plain eyelevel on all bodies

CMoore · Mar 26, 2019

Wow.....does Sover Wong really have a 14 month waiting list.?
It was 2-3 years ago, when he did my F2S and F2A.....i think the wait was about 3-4 months.
I was floored by his knowledge of the F2 and how detailed his Repair/Documentation is.
Not sure it was "worth" the expense. It was not if you simply want to shoot 35mm film.
But it does feel good to "restore" these old cameras that were the pinnacle of the 35mm SLR of that time.
A few times over the years, i will run into another guy shooting an F2. When they ask to shoot a few frames with mine and compare the feel of the film wind, shutter and meter accuracy, they are impressed.
I should look back over this thread......i am wondering if there is somebody "similar" to Sover Wong in the usa.

Nikon F2 meter issues???

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