Thanks Chris! Looks like the exposure needle jumpiness doesn't affect the shutter speed, only needle itself as viewed in the viewfinder. I will do some dry firing to see if it goes away.
Thanks Chris! Looks like the exposure needle jumpiness doesn't affect the shutter speed, only needle itself as viewed in the viewfinder. I will do some dry firing to see if it goes away.
If you like it but can't stand the jittery needle, another EM would top out at about $25 and its smarter brother, the FG, a bit more. The 50/1.8E is a sweet little lens.
The shutter speed is what the needle is pointing at. If the needle is pointing at the wrong shutter speed then you have bad exposure too.
It is a nicely designed camera, but I don't think I would buy another one. While I do shoot many times in aperture priority, I also like to shoot manual as well.
Protip: you can ratchet wind the EM... one of the few Nikons that do this. (Does the FG? The other one that does is the F3/F3HP.)
I had an FE-2 which did this when I bought it; maybe you have the same problem. In my case it turned out to be the contact inside the camera which senses the aperture. I assume it was dirty or slightly corroded through disuse. Try repeatedly turning the aperture ring backwards and forwards from wide open to fully stopped down. It took quite a lot of twisting, but in my case it worked in the end.
Doesn't matter if the camera meter is on or not. The problem is in the ring resistor. It's dirty. So, the 10-15 Nikon shuffles that I suggested over on Nikonians should work. You might have to do it some more, but it should work. It's a common problem with the EM.
-J
Thanks John! I was just getting ready to respond to you over at Nikonians, but you saved me the trip!I am rotating the aperture ring repeatedly as we speak. Next on my list will be to change the foam seals on it as well. I will probably be ordering several foam light seals in the near future to replace them on some of my other bodies (FM2n, F3 and an old Pentax), so my "new to me" EM will be my next project.
It can also simply be shot; if so, all the twiddling won't bring it back to life. It's a hit-or-miss solution, at best. The only seal that's behind most light leaks is at the hinge side of the back and you don't need a "kit" to replace it, just a piece of adhesive-backed foam.
Actually, the twiddling has worked for the most part! The needle is much less jumpy now.Thanks for the feedback on the foam kits. I was planning on replacing the foam on the hinge side of the back as well as the door channel seals as they are gummy. I wasn't too overly concerned changing out the mirror cushion though.
Actually, the twiddling has worked for the most part!
Keep at it, it can take quite a lot of twisting and turning to make up for the years of neglect!
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