For you EM owners, I have a metering question. When I look through the viewfinder and the shutter isn't cocked the shutter speed needle moves as I change the aperture or lighting conditions. Once I cock the the shutter the needle goes all the way up and stays there until the shutter is released. In other words, if the shutter is cocked the the needle stays all the way up even if pressing the button half way. It only meters the light if its not cocked.
If you've had the door open the needle points at C90 and the shutter is firing at 1/90s until you've wound and fired the shutter a couple of times first. That is when the frame counter reaches frame one. The Nikon EM, FG and FG-20 are designed to do that.
If you've had the door open the needle points at C90 and the shutter is firing at 1/90s until you've wound and fired the shutter a couple of times first. That is when the frame counter reaches frame one. The Nikon EM, FG and FG-20 are designed to do that.
Yes, that's correct the needle doesn't respond until the counter reaches 1. The problem is that once the shutter is cocked the needle becomes inactive. The meter only works when the shutter isn't cocked. As soon as you cock it it goes all the way up and and doesn't meter light. After you take the exposure it meters again. The FE, FE2, FG and others the meter is always active.
So as it is, I first have to meter the scene then cock the and shoot. But once its cocked the meter is inactive, So if I change the aperture while its cocked the needle doesn't respond.
Yes, it does change speeds but only if I meter without cocking it before taking the shot. I suppose its still usable but somewhat limited. Almost like doing stop-down metering
Theese cameras have a number of switches that tell the IC what's going on. If one (or more) switches are acting up you can get this kind of behaviour.
I suspect you have poor contact in the Frame Counter Switch. It's pretty easy to open the camera and check it. Hardest part is removing the circlip retaining the ASA wheel.