Nikon DP-nn prism question (cla? maybe? costs?)

[eric antonio]

Hi guys,
I have a metered prism on my F2, not sure which one it is. I can see some from Ebay japan for +- $100 or about.

I just realized my meter is 2 stops off! I know I can leave it like that but wondering if it will degrade and will it degrade while using it and then my shots are way off. I usually shoot @200 for 400 film, and I compared it to working reflected meters and an iPhone app and now it's on 50 to get the exposure correct for @200.

Was wondering if it is worth getting a good working one from Ebay at that $100 or so price, or do you guys have resources to get it fixed for less than the $100 price?

I know the other option is to walk around with a handheld meter..

 

[abruzzi]

I apologize for the overly simplistic suggestion, but is it possible you're using a pre-AI finder and not indexing the lens?

 

[eric antonio]

I apologize for the overly simplistic suggestion, but is it possible you're using a pre-AI finder and not indexing the lens?

Oh no, don't apologize. I actually did a "huh, maybe it was that simple" but it wasn't.

I've actually had this particular F2 since the mid-80s. I have tons of toys, (konicas, minoltas, pentax67,4x5,8x10's to play with). I just haven't used the F2 in a while and I thought I'd dust it off.
So with your insight, I did look just in case I did the "ooops, my bad" but nope, the tab is hooked on to the thing on the prism and moves quite nice.

I did see a thread about F2 cla's today and one of the recommended places was 25 minute drive from me here in LA!!! I called and he said from 80-> $80 plus parts if needed but low end $80 and high end $150 if I need some stuff replaced.

So not bad, I saw a DP11 on ebay japan but I kinda like older lenses with the lens tab that actually will do something instead of snagging on your jacket!

I kinda think the older less coated (is that a thing?) pre-ai lenses are my thing. I shoot mostly B&W so I like the less coated lens look.

 

[abruzzi]

IMO the DP3 meter is the one to get. You can meter with all the old lenses and most of the manual focus AI/AIS lenses. You can’t meter most AF lenses (except in stop down mode) or with the Series E lenses. The only other thing I can think of is maybe if the batteries are old and alkaline (as opposed to silver or lithium). I don’t know if low voltage can have that effect on the F2 metered prisms, but a lot of earlier cameras had that issue. (Alkaline batteries lose voltage as they discharge, compared to silver or lithium which maintain a more consistent voltage over time.)

 

[jimjm]

I recently sent in a DP-11 meter to have it calibrated and cleaned. It's in excellent condition, but like many F2 meter heads these days, the needle is jumpy and the meter is off. Sent it to Stephen Gandy at Cameraquest, but he emailed me back stating that the ring resistor would need to be replaced, and they no longer have the parts to do so. Cost would have been about $150 to start anyway. Only other person I know to try is Sover Wong, but then cost will probably be $250-300, plus I hear he has a long waiting list.

 

[macfred]

After having bad luck with two DP-1 (both with jumping needles) for my F2's, I finally switched to the DE-1 eyelevel and sunny sixteen (in some situations I use a Gossen lightmeter).

 

[Chan Tran]

I think the DP-1 and DP-11 which used CDS cells and gavanometer over time the CDS cells wear out and the gavalnometer would change its characteristic so the meter become not accurate. The DP-2, DP-3 or DP-12 would last longer in my opinion because they used LED and silicon cells.

 

[ronnies]

Oh no, don't apologize. I actually did a "huh, maybe it was that simple" but it wasn't.

I've actually had this particular F2 since the mid-80s. I have tons of toys, (konicas, minoltas, pentax67,4x5,8x10's to play with). I just haven't used the F2 in a while and I thought I'd dust it off.
So with your insight, I did look just in case I did the "ooops, my bad" but nope, the tab is hooked on to the thing on the prism and moves quite nice.
.

That's fine but when you mounted the lens, did you remember to rotate the lens to the minimum and then maximum apertures?

Ronnie

 

[eric antonio]

That's fine but when you mounted the lens, did you remember to rotate the lens to the minimum and then maximum apertures?

Ronnie

Ahhhh,you completely jogged my memory! I needed a good jogging. Did that, and removed prism and moved it around some more to see if it was stuck somewhere. Nope, still have -2 reading

 

[eric antonio]

I think the DP-1 and DP-11 which used CDS cells and gavanometer over time the CDS cells wear out and the gavalnometer would change its characteristic so the meter become not accurate. The DP-2, DP-3 or DP-12 would last longer in my opinion because they used LED and silicon cells.

Ohhh, this is interesting. I just search, wow, DP-3 and DP-12 prices are INSANE!

 

[abruzzi]

Yeah, I have two DP-3s that were purchased on a camera (F2SB) and one DP-1. Normally I prefer needles over LEDs, but the DP-1 is having issues. If yours is a DP-1, maybe your “solution” is just to adjust the ISO setting on the finder to compensate for the 2 stop inaccuracy (I.e. load 400 speed film and set the meter for 100)

 

[eric antonio]

Yeah, I have two DP-3s that were purchased on a camera (F2SB) and one DP-1. Normally I prefer needles over LEDs, but the DP-1 is having issues. If yours is a DP-1, maybe your “solution” is just to adjust the ISO setting on the finder to compensate for the 2 stop inaccuracy (I.e. load 400 speed film and set the meter for 100)

That's exactly what I'm doing right now. I usually shoot 400 B&W @ 200, so I had to move it to 50.
Just wondering how long it'll keep that up and eventually move it to 25...then......
hahaha, I guess it'll take a while huh?

 

[reddesert]

I don't think CdS cells (photoresistors) wear out significantly. The issue with many of these old meters is the resistive track along which a contact moves as you turn the aperture. These can physically deteriorate.