Nikon AF 35mm f2.0 D lens with oily blades

Huss

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Oily blades are very common with this lens, and most times it doesn't effect anything. Until is does. I just developed a roll using this lens, and the first 6 or so exposures were way overexposed. Checking the lens on camera, I could see it was because the blades were sticking and so did not correctly - if at all - stop down to the shooting aperture.
After a bit of exercise, it was fine. Until the next time.

So... this lens in proper shape is worth about $150-$200. Mine optically and cosmetically is in super shape. Any idea how much a repair would cost? And any recommendations?
I looked up the videos on how to repair, and it is do-able to someone who has the skills to do it. I am not that person...

Thanks!

p.s. I'm interested in the repair because this lens gives super results, and is tiny which makes it enjoyable to use.
 

MattKing

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Do you have a local repair resource that you have been happy with for other things?
I ask, because this sort of repair is usually the sort of thing that repairers with generalized experience can handle.
 
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Huss

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MattKing said:
Do you have a local repair resource that you have been happy with for other things?
I ask, because this sort of repair is usually the sort of thing that repairers with generalized experience can handle.
Click to expand...

I will reach out to a few places tomorrow.
 

madNbad

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MattKing said:
Do you have a local repair resource that you have been happy with for other things?
I ask, because this sort of repair is usually the sort of thing that repairers with generalized experience can handle.
Click to expand...

Matt,
As someone who has taken my fair share of Nikkormats and sub hundred dollar Nikkor lenses to the local shops for a cleaning that normally cost more than was originally spent on the lens or body, it's a judgement call. When buying a newer lens for not much more than the cost of a cleaning is an option, it's certianlly something to think about. In my situation I was looking for period lenses to pair with the bodies. When I sold them off, the buyers got a good deal at a bargain price. If there is a faster, cheaper way to address the problem, great but we all know about the proverbial can 'o worms.
 
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Huss

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The thing is this lens is notorious for oiling the blades. And you have the excuses such as I was storing it incorrectly, when not in use it should be pointed due north etc…

Which means if I just buy another, the same thing could very easily happen. Hence maybe better to repair this one? Or use my monster mama Sigma Art 35 1.4.
 

madNbad

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What about a 35 Nikkor G?
 

MattKing

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madNbad said:
Matt,
As someone who has taken my fair share of Nikkormats and sub hundred dollar Nikkor lenses to the local shops for a cleaning that normally cost more than was originally spent on the lens or body, it's a judgement call.
Click to expand...

Understood.
I'm fairly confident that Huss has made similar calls before. I was just pointing out that the problem is most likely one that doesn't require a "Sover Wong" type of specialist.
And if Huss has an existing relationship with a repairer, that may be the best place to look for an answer, given that Huss' opinion about using the lens is: "I'm interested in the repair because this lens gives super results, and is tiny which makes it enjoyable to use."
 
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Huss

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madNbad said:
What about a 35 Nikkor G?
Click to expand...

I’m good with the Sigma Art so really don’t want to buy another 35 AF lens. I also have at least two manual focus Nikon mount lenses - 35 1.4 AIS, and zf.2 35mm f2. Oh and that weird Lomo Neptune one..
 

madNbad

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Mostly the shops in my area charge about $150 usd for a cleaning and a warranty. I have to admit, after those lenses were cleaned and lubricated, they were a joy to use. The little 45 GN non-Ai most of all!
 
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Huss

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madNbad said:
Mostly the shops in my area charge about $150 usd for a cleaning and a warranty. I have to admit, after those lenses were cleaned and lubricated, they were a joy to use. The little 45 GN non-Ai most of all!
Click to expand...

Does your GN have that weird dead zone feeling at one point in the focus throw?

I’ve gotten some sweet pics out of my GN, I think it‘s because I have that OG gothic script lens hood.
 

madNbad

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Huss said:
Does your GN have that weird dead zone feeling at one point in the focus throw?

I’ve gotten some sweet pics out of my GN, I think it‘s because I have that OG gothic script lens hood.
Click to expand...

I sold it a few years back but here is a few things I learned. The 45 GN operates with a cam instead of the traditional helical mount. The cam was need to be able to drive the aperture during the focus which is why there’s the slack when you begin to focus. Once the one I owned had been serviced, the cam would kick in sooner so even though the slack was still there, it was less noticeable. Richard Haw posted a guide of how to service the lens and I gave a copy to the technician who worked on mine. If I had kept any of my Nikon gear, the FS, the 55 1.2 and the 45 GN would have been the keepers. If you’re going to have the 35 D lens serviced, bring it along. When it’s done, pair it with an F2. It’s a fun lens to use, not the sharpest but it does focus in the same direction as a Leica.
 

madNbad

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As an addendum, the gothic script hood are pretty much a collector item any more and worth about twice as much as the lens.
 
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Huss

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Yeah I use it with an F2, if I use those cameras. My go to cameras are the Leica Ms, I just connect w them so well, which in a way is why I am hesitant putting money into the 35 D. But then again, it seems I am using and enjoying the lowly N80 far more than my other Nikons.
 
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Huss

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madNbad said:
As an addendum, the gothic script hood are pretty much a collector item any more and worth about twice as much as the lens.
Click to expand...

Record scratch/spit take moment.
Fer realz? I have two of them, one on my GN and one on my 45 AI-P!
 

Moose22

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If you do get a cleaning quote, I'd love to know.

Just for knowledge, I took apart an old AF-50 once, and they come apart way more easily than most lenses. They're built the same way. Should be super easy to maintain for anyone who knows how, but they're still going to charge for an hour or whatever.
 
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