Nikon 50mm f2 AI vs H

[John_Nikon_F]

There will be sample variation, but, in my experience, the 6 element 50/2 lenses have all pretty much rendered the same. Not much of a difference between the H, HC, and K/AI versions when I've shot with them. Right now, I have an HC that was kludged together with a 742111-785010 serial H lens body and the elements of an HC, so it uses the #3 AI ring, instead of the #2 ring - it has been AI'd, by the late Brian Williams (microbee on eBay), but using the factory parts instead of his custom mill jobs he did. I also have an early AI lens (351xxxx serial). Other than the AI lens being slightly heavier and more cushy in operation thanks to the rubber focusing ring, they both are pretty much the same. One does focus to 1.5 feet/0.45 meters instead of 1.9 feet, though.

 

[M-88]

There will be sample variation, but, in my experience, the 6 element 50/2 lenses have all pretty much rendered the same. Not much of a difference between the H, HC, and K/AI versions when I've shot with them. Right now, I have an HC that was kludged together with a 742111-785010 serial H lens body and the elements of an HC, so it uses the #3 AI ring, instead of the #2 ring - it has been AI'd, by the late Brian Williams (microbee on eBay), but using the factory parts instead of his custom mill jobs he did. I also have an early AI lens (351xxxx serial). Other than the AI lens being slightly heavier and more cushy in operation thanks to the rubber focusing ring, they both are pretty much the same. One does focus to 1.5 feet/0.45 meters instead of 1.9 feet, though.

My 50 mm f/2 AI is also 351xxxx and it focuses down to 0.43 m actually instead of indicated 0.45, but I guess "0.45" was just a close approximation, because the lens of my Olympus OM-2 also has writing "0.45" and it goes as close as 0.44.

P.S. I often encounter this "K" letter mentioned by you as well. Can you shed some light on what "K" means?

 

[John_Nikon_F]

^K-type refers to the final pre-AI lenses that look almost identical to the AI lenses, but have a darker gray hard rubber focus ring and the pre-AI aperture ring. They also don't have the lens speed sensing tab that connects to the cam inside the mirror box of an FA or an F4 body to allow matrix metering. Some of the K-type lenses (as an example, the 35/1.4) can actually damage one of those bodies, if you try to mount them, which is why it's important to check the serial number against the photosynthesis.co.nz site when you're looking at a lens that some dealer is calling an "AI" lens. A few of the earlier lenses are the same way, like the 55/1.2 and the 28/3.5. Both Roberts Camera and KEH are notorious for selling AI'd lenses as "AI" lenses. Luckily, it's not a problem for most bodies.

 

[M-88]

^K-type refers to the final pre-AI lenses that look almost identical to the AI lenses, but have a darker gray hard rubber focus ring and the pre-AI aperture ring. They also don't have the lens speed sensing tab that connects to the cam inside the mirror box of an FA or an F4 body to allow matrix metering. Some of the K-type lenses (as an example, the 35/1.4) can actually damage one of those bodies, if you try to mount them, which is why it's important to check the serial number against the photosynthesis.co.nz site when you're looking at a lens that some dealer is calling an "AI" lens. A few of the earlier lenses are the same way, like the 55/1.2 and the 28/3.5. Both Roberts Camera and KEH are notorious for selling AI'd lenses as "AI" lenses. Luckily, it's not a problem for most bodies.

That explains why I'm unable to distinguish K types from AI lenses. I can see AI'd lenses on Robertscamera since they put actual photos of what they sell. It's far more complicated with KEH. But I have FE, to which both type of lenses can be fitted.

Thank you for taking your time to enlighten me!

 

[Mogens]

It's important to remember that no lens is a magic bullet. For that, you'd need a Leica. But once you've collected a few shelves worth of Leica bodies and lenses, you'll realize that you'll need the larger negative of the Hasselblad to really solve your photography problems. 35mm just won't cut it. Of course, after another few shelves worth of Hasselblad gear, you'll come to the obvious conclusion that if 6x6 is leagues better than 35mm, then 4x5 has to be even better than 6x6. So you buy an Arca Swiss F-Field Metric and a bunch of APO Rodenstock lenses. Then it hit's you. You've wasted too much of your life looking for the perfect camera, and you'd have to be an idiot to chase this thing any further and buy an 8x10. So you have a custom made 16x20 camera made to skip ahead a couple of steps and spend 5 years searching for that perfect, one-of-a-kind lens that will cover that size of a negative and stay sharp, corner to corner. The image quality is great, but it's all just too heavy and complicated, so you decide to simplify and get back to your roots with a Contax T3. And after you've gotten to know the beauty, elegance, and simplicity of the Contax T3, you realize that for the first time in your life, you're finally ready to take a picture of something other than a USAF resolution chart, only you don't know how.

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