Ha, bless you!"There is no magic in anything that you can buy for photographic purposes. Buying another lens will not improve your photography."
It is important to say that three times, with your eyes closed, and then click your heels together.
Ha, well done and thank youIt's important to remember that no lens is a magic bullet. For that, you'd need a Leica. But once you've collected a few shelves worth of Leica bodies and lenses, you'll realize that you'll need the larger negative of the Hasselblad to really solve your photography problems. 35mm just won't cut it. Of course, after another few shelves worth of Hasselblad gear, you'll come to the obvious conclusion that if 6x6 is leagues better than 35mm, then 4x5 has to be even better than 6x6. So you buy an Arca Swiss F-Field Metric and a bunch of APO Rodenstock lenses. Then it hit's you. You've wasted too much of your life looking for the perfect camera, and you'd have to be an idiot to chase this thing any further and buy an 8x10. So you have a custom made 16x20 camera made to skip ahead a couple of steps and spend 5 years searching for that perfect, one-of-a-kind lens that will cover that size of a negative and stay sharp, corner to corner. The image quality is great, but it's all just too heavy and complicated, so you decide to simplify and get back to your roots with a Contax T3. And after you've gotten to know the beauty, elegance, and simplicity of the Contax T3, you realize that for the first time in your life, you're finally ready to take a picture of something other than a USAF resolution chart, only you don't know how.
It's important to remember that no lens is a magic bullet. For that, you'd need a Leica. But once you've collected a few shelves worth of Leica bodies and lenses, you'll realize that you'll need the larger negative of the Hasselblad to really solve your photography problems. 35mm just won't cut it. Of course, after another few shelves worth of Hasselblad gear, you'll come to the obvious conclusion that if 6x6 is leagues better than 35mm, then 4x5 has to be even better than 6x6. So you buy an Arca Swiss F-Field Metric and a bunch of APO Rodenstock lenses. Then it hit's you. You've wasted too much of your life looking for the perfect camera, and you'd have to be an idiot to chase this thing any further and buy an 8x10. So you have a custom made 16x20 camera made to skip ahead a couple of steps and spend 5 years searching for that perfect, one-of-a-kind lens that will cover that size of a negative and stay sharp, corner to corner. The image quality is great, but it's all just too heavy and complicated, so you decide to simplify and get back to your roots with a Contax T3. And after you've gotten to know the beauty, elegance, and simplicity of the Contax T3, you realize that for the first time in your life, you're finally ready to take a picture of something other than a USAF resolution chart, only you don't know how.
Mhm. Which doesn't apparently apply to Nikkor-P or Nikkor-S, unless they have 16/19 elements.The first letter designation in Nikkor lenses refers to the number of elements in the design. The AI, non-AI, AI-S, etc... refers to the meter coupling:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nikon_F-mount#Nikkor
This page has some comprehensive history about all of Nikkor's 50mm variants:
https://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/companies/nikon/nikkoresources/50mmnikkor/index.htm
And this site is a great reference if you want to identify your lens by its serial number:
http://www.photosynthesis.co.nz/nikon/lenses.html
I have the Nikkor-H Auto 50mm f/2 non-AI, circa 1968-71. I don't have the AI version to compare it to, but my lens has great performance, especially for the price. You can see some of my samples here, and judge for yourself whether you find the lens' qualities to your liking.
Mhm. Which doesn't apparently apply to Nikkor-P or Nikkor-S, unless they have 16/19 elements.
Olympus did the same with early OM Zuiko lenses but ultimately dropped the nomenclature.
Ugh... Making the life complicated... F. Zuiko - 6 element lens, H. Zuiko - 8 element and so on. Isn't it better?H --> Hex == six elements
P --> Penta == five elements
S --> Septa == seven elements.
To make it more confusing, it's actually a mix of Latin and Greek, at least according to the MIR site. Doesn't matter, it's all Greek to me!The leters refer to the latin...
H --> Hexa == six elements
P --> Penta == five elements
S --> Septa == seven elements.
each and every lens is slightly different to the next:try before you buy!Good greetings! I recently picked up a Nikon 50mm f2 AI lens. I shot a roll of Portra 400 and was certainly pleased with the color, contrast, bokeh, and handling.
That said, the version of this lens that seems to delight is the Nikkor-H. People sing of the H version's ethereal beauty and character.
I wonder if any of you have used the H version as well as the AI version. If so, have you noticed a difference between the two? I am wondering if the AI version lacks that certain special something, but perhaps this is only my addiction talking...
I would be most grateful to hear any and all of your empirical findings!
Thank you truly!
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