Nikkormat?

[ongakublue]

Hi all,

Looking to maybe get a Nikkormat 35mm camera. I have two F mount Sigma lenses. Mini Wide and Super Wide, as well as the 50mm 1.8 AF D. I wonder how they would work on that camera. (I don't need autofocus on the body obviously) Another option would be OK but mechanical shutter only. Aperture priority would be great but I can live without it. Smaller and cheaper is also preferred.

THanks!

 

[summicron1]

do your lenses have the linking arm to connect with the camera's meter? That's that little half-moon tab with a slot that engages with an arm on the camera and tells the camera what maximum f-stop your lens has.

If not, your lenses would only be usable in full manual mode and you'd have to read the individual camera's owners manual to find out how to do stop-down metering with it.

 

[BMbikerider]

I think you can safely say the 50mm AFd will not work on the Nikkormat unless in the stop down mode, The earliest Nikkormat that it will work on with open apperture metering is the FT3 which is Ai coupled. Likewise I think the Sigma Super wide was also too late, I remember using on on an F3 and there was no coupling for early Nikons. I am not sure about the mini wide that may work.

 

[John_Nikon_F]

Since you're looking for something smaller and cheaper, maybe a Nikon FM or, if you want aperture priority, either an FE or an FG-20? A Nikkormat body is the size and weight of an F3. That might be another option for you. A working user grade F3 eyelevel. Not much more than either a Nikkormat FT3 or an FE, money-wise, and same size as the FT3.

 

[ac12]

Many different Nikkormat models.
The later consumer grade Nikons are basically the extension of the Nikkormat line, but with the Nikon name.
The early Nikkormats (such as the FTn) used a mercury battery for the meter, and that battery is no longer available. There are a few alternatives, including the Wein zinc/air battery. But it only lasts for about 3 months, once activated.
The ring resistor (for the aperture setting) on the FTn is known for wear, and Nikon no longer has replacements. So at a certain point you may not be able to meter with the camera, and have to switch to a hand meter.
As was mentioned, the FTn is prong coupling only. So the lens has to have the 'rabbit ears' to couple the aperture ring to the camera.

 

[macfred]

Regarding your lenses, I would go for a F4 (though I like those older Nikons and Nikkormat models - I have two F2 and a FM for my non-ai and ai(s) lenses).
Modern AF lenses in stop down mode is no fun for me.

 

[Down Under]

If you can live with always using your lenses (whether MF or AF) in stop down mode, then Nikkormats would suit you. Most of us were using stop down to check depth of field with early SLRs anyway. Metering needn't be a problem if you manually adjust lever on the lens ring appropriately.

The best Nikkormats for your needs will be the FT2 or FT3. These were the last two models of this camera, and date to the late 1970s.

I still use all my Nikon AF D lenses on my two FT2s. No problems at all. Lovely colors, exquisite definition and sharpness right to the edges. I don't ownany G lenses, so am not sure if these will work on the Nikkormat, tho' I think not as they have no built-in aperture adjustment.

It's a nice thought that post-2000 lenses still work well on 40+ year old cameras. Kudos to Nikon for having ensured longevity of their products.

 

[wastelanded]

If you're patient, you can pick up an FM for nearly the same price as a Nikkormat. More compact, lighter, and AI-compatable. I have both: the Nikkormat is an indestructible machine, but metering will at some point be an issue as said above. I always pick the FM for a day of shooting. It's more comfortable, fits beautifully in the hands.

 

[rpavich]

If you can live with always using your lenses (whether MF or AF) in stop down mode, then Nikkormats would suit you. Most of us were using stop down to check depth of field with early SLRs anyway. Metering needn't be a problem if you manually adjust lever on the lens ring appropriately.
.

I have a Nikomat FTn and it doesn't seem to work that way.
As I recall, the procedure is to mount the lens and then turn the aperture one direction and then turn it the opposite and the camera now knows the extent of the apertures on the lens, and that's it. No stopping down when metering that I know of.

 

[RichardJack]

Nikkormat's are great cameras and they have held up well to time.
My recommendation is the FT3 model. Besides being the newest and most likely to be in better shape it has a split image view screen and meters with AI/AIs series lenses. While the old Nikkors are fine, the AI & AIs have better coatings, the rubberized grips (personal taste), and usually better optics. Some of Nikon's finest primes were AI & AIs versions. Since the FT3 will meter with the AF-D lenses as well you'll have lots of fine zoom lenses to choose from. Three personal favorites are the 28-105mm f3.5-4.5 AF-D, 70-210mm f4-5.6 AF-D and 35-105mm f3.5-4.5 AIs (all can be found for under $200) and if you don't mind chrome find a FT3 for about $50 (black can go for $150). I love my FT2 & FTn as well but the refinements in the FT3 make it a keeper. It was only on the market for about a year, Nikon was releasing the FM & FE.

 

[Chan Tran]

I have a Nikomat FTn and it doesn't seem to work that way.
As I recall, the procedure is to mount the lens and then turn the aperture one direction and then turn it the opposite and the camera now knows the extent of the apertures on the lens, and that's it. No stopping down when metering that I know of.

If you use Nikon lenses and a Nikkormat earlier than the FT3 you don't have to stop down the lens but just do the indexing ritual as you said. However, many third party lenses designed for AI compatible cameras omit the prong so one has to do stop down with early Nikkormat.

 

[blockend]

The Nikkormat is one of the best built 35mm film cameras ever made. At current prices they're a steal and will last a lifetime.

 

[Down Under]

#9 is correct. I have FT2s and was referring to those, not FTNs which are earlier models. I had FTNs before bu went to FT2s many years ago. Older Nikkor lenses meter with most Nikkormats if the "indexing ritual" (see #11) is followed correctly. E series Nikkors and the AF Ds can be used, but they can be used if you do as I described in #7. This works fine for me and it will work for you as well.

Also agree with #12. My Nikkormats appear to have been built to US Army Sherman tank specifications and have outlasted any Nikon SLR camera I or anyone I know has ever owned.

I had a Nikon F that developed (Photomic) metering problems. My partner has a Nikkormat FTN of the same vintage as the F (which I sold) and has never had any metering problems even with the battery replacement issue which to my mind is only a minor irritation and easy to work around. My FT2s and ELs still meter perfectly. Many have criticised the ELs for being "mindlessly electronic" but mine just go on working.

My experience and my partner's say Nikkormats are the way. Other than replacing the foam seals in the camera every 20 years, with luck your Nikkormat may never need any servicing until it expires from old age, at which time you can promote it to shelf queen status next to your Nikons of the same vintage.

 

[George Mann]

The EL2 and FT3 are the only models I can recommend given their age and complexity.

 

[macfred]

The EL2 and FT3 are the only models I can recommend given their age and complexity.

I had a EL2 and it was a very nice and reliable cam - I was stupid enough to sell it ...

Nikon EL2 by Andreas, on Flickr

 

[mgb74]

FT3 and later use common 1.5v silver oxide batteries.

 

[John_Nikon_F]

^FT2 and later. One of the updates done to the FT2 was the conversion to the 1.55 volt silver battery from the 1.35 volt mercury battery used in the FTn.

-J

 

[TheTrailTog]

+1 for the FT2. It's cheap and reliable. Brought it on a hike 2 weekends ago. The mosquitoes were insane. I had my FT2 with a neck strap slung over one shoulder. While swatting mosquitoes I watched in slow motion as my camera slid off my shoulder and dropped onto the granite slab, maybe 5'. Luckily it didn't land on the lens. It impacted a corner of the base and the only damage was a very small scuff to the paint. Not even the slightest dent and no impact on functionality. After that incident, and given the prices they go for, I will be keeping an eye out to add a couple more to keep on standby, just in case.