Of my four Nikkormats, the nicest two have frame spacing issues. These aren't terrible, no overlapping or joining frames, just different width gaps which can complicate scanning in particular. Ironically my beaten up Niks have perfect spacing!
Question: Is correcting frame spacing a mechanical tweak or a new parts issue? I'm thinking of having my best Nikkormat CLA'd and getting the meter updated, and frame spacing is on my list if it doesn't mean unrealistic expense. I'm willing to strip the camera down myself if it's a adjustment issue, not so if it's a replacement job.
Yes, I was much encouraged by a pinhole camera exhibition that used 10 x 8 chromes! I tend to use an iphone app and unless the light changes, shoot at that setting. It seems to work.Even a working Weston II with invercone dome and filter is cheap, and way more precise than in camera meters for slide film.
Your 1st para post is a my daddy is bigger than your daddy post.The Nikormats I've owned w/ working meters gave perfect exposures. Not sure I agree w/ the comment about in camera meters, as the meters on my later Nikons that had center weighted, matrix AND spot were the best meters money could buy. Again, perfect exposures every time, if you knew where to put the meter circle. That's the deal w/ any camera that has match needle, center weighted metering like the Nikkormats, just understanding how the meter operates. No way would I trust a selenium celled meter like the Westons in low light.
You might want to ck your 'mats that have non working meters and see if you can get them to work. Three out of four times I am able to get them working by cleaning up the battery contacts, putting a fresh battery in, and spraying some electrical cleaner into the gaps on the shutter speed ring on the front and moving it back and forth to clean up the contacts in there. A Nikkormat w/ a working meter is a sweet camera! The FT2 was always my favorite Nikkormat until I bought a beater FTn, and it was just as good. Every model is a wonderful camera.
Thanks for the info. I'm hoping the time spent winding on and generally spinning the take up spool and sprocket pin will free things up a little. If not I may have to take your advice. It's slightly frustrating as both the problem ones are genuinely mint condition and one of them is like out the box new, not even a base mark or thumb print, which considering it's a pre-67 FT is remarkable. They now feel really smooth so I'll see what's up after the next film.Yes, you have to depress the spring-loaded lever, then rotate the pin to match it to both the film speed and the maximum aperture of whichever lens you're using. One thing, if you're good at soldering, you could always put the nicer top and bottom covers on the bodies that work properly. That won't work on an FT2, if the nicer condition bodies are an FT and an FTn, though. I do think that Pacific Rim Camera here in the states has NOS FT2 cosmetic parts, so, it's not like the parts aren't available.
-J
I don't know if you've opened one up, but is the sprocket wind shaft oiled or greased inside, or is it a plain plastic bearing?The problem is normally in (side) the sprocket shaft!
If exercise does not work you could try an hour or two in warm airing cupboard followed by exercise that is the last ditch before real CLA...
The Nikon shutters from 47 or so we're Barnack clones, there have been a lot of variation since then so don't know what variation you have.
But getting a sprocket shaft out is not necessarily going to be easy.
If you detected a difference after excercise you should be ok.
The advice was generic Leicas, canons, FSU, etc.,... and Nikons don't like sitting on shelves.
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