Nikkor 50 f2 repair

j-dogg · Nov 4, 2010

Or lens repair in general, got one here I bought as a project, lens needs disassembly and cleaning. Focus is about as smooth as 40 grit sandpaper.

Anyone ever done this or got any tips? (besides carry a magnet)

Can't I just immerse this thing in 100% alcohol for a couple days to kill everything and squeeze some lube in the focus ring?

Ihmemies · Nov 4, 2010

No... the lens must be disassembled. You can then immerse the focusing helicoids in alcohol and thoroughly clean them with a toothbrush + water + soap afterwards. When they're really clean you can apply new grease. Choosing & acquiring a grease is the most difficult matter Small lenses like 50/2 should work OK with some temperature resistant synthetic silicon grease (like -50C ... +150C). NGLI 2 or however the viscosity is expressed should be ok. Synthetic greases don't evaporate or migrate. The amount of grease also affects focusing feel much, you need to find the right balance in amount.

Anyways, first find good tools, mainly screwdrivers which fit the screws and won't damage them. And grease. Then you can start to expirement with disassembling the lens.. there might be some guides for specific lens disassembly around to help.

Paying for the lens to be serviced is usually not worth it, because experienced repairmen ask a lot, easily one hour at a shop costs more than a lens... and having tools, greases & skills to service your Nikkor lenses yourself is a great asset. Most MF Nikkors are in very bad shape when it comes to focusing feel.

CGW · Nov 4, 2010

They're plentiful and cheap. Get another?

j-dogg · Nov 4, 2010

I'm getting a 50 1.4 Nikkor S but wanted to see if I could save this one as a project, I paid next to nothing for it.

Ihmemies · Nov 4, 2010

CGW said:
They're plentiful and cheap. Get another?

The next one is probably bad too. At least 50% of the Nikkor lenses I've seen have bad focusing feel. Nikon doesn't use very high quality materials or greases in their lenses, unlike some good Japenese lens makers like Pentax. The availablility & price of all kinds of Nikkor lenses keeps me using them though. Just got to live with the DIY part, unless you're ready to buy some really good samples from trusted vendors like Grays of Westminster...

To list my luck with lenses acquired locally, from ebay and from other shops abroad...

Nikkor Ai 24/2.8 = OK, but sqeaks while focusing
Nikkor Ai 35/1.4 = Smooth but very stiff and gets stiffer in cold
Nikkor-s 5cm f/2 = dry
Nikkor K (old model) factory Ai'd 50/1.4 = dry
Nikkor Ai 85/2 (two samples) = first had broken helicoids (dropped lens), next one was dry
Nikkor Ai-S 85/1.4 = OK, sn 240x serial (wonder if the CLA in Nikon Hong Kong's service facility helped the focus feel or not)
Nikkor Ai-S 105/4 = OK, but with some play
Nikkor K factory Ai'd 135/2 = DRY
Nikkor Ai-S 300/4.5 = OK

My photog friends who have all kinds of nikkors have same kind of experiences too.. Ai-S 50/1.2 Ok but with play, pre-ai Nikkor-N 24/2.8 = dry and loose, Ai-S 85/1.4 earlier sn than mine = dry... the list goes on. Of course they have some OK samples too like one Ai-S 180/2.8 ED which is great (and I've been planning to buy that particular sample) ... but the odds of getting a dry or otherwise not that good lens feel pretty high

j-dogg · Nov 4, 2010

I must have gotten lucky with my Nikkors this is the first one with issues I have ever gotten and I have about 6 primes and a zoom.

CGW · Nov 4, 2010

Ihmemies said:
The next one is probably bad too. At least 50% of the Nikkor lenses I've seen have bad focusing feel. Nikon doesn't use very high quality materials or greases in their lenses, unlike some good Japenese lens makers like Pentax. The availablility & price of all kinds of Nikkor lenses keeps me using them though. Just got to live with the DIY part, unless you're ready to buy some really good samples from trusted vendors like Grays of Westminster...

To list my luck with lenses acquired locally, from ebay and from other shops abroad...

Nikkor Ai 24/2.8 = OK, but sqeaks while focusing
Nikkor Ai 35/1.4 = Smooth but very stiff and gets stiffer in cold
Nikkor-s 5cm f/2 = dry
Nikkor K (old model) factory Ai'd 50/1.4 = dry
Nikkor Ai 85/2 (two samples) = first had broken helicoids (dropped lens), next one was dry
Nikkor Ai-S 85/1.4 = OK, sn 240x serial (wonder if the CLA in Nikon Hong Kong's service facility helped the focus feel or not)
Nikkor Ai-S 105/4 = OK, but with some play
Nikkor K factory Ai'd 135/2 = DRY
Nikkor Ai-S 300/4.5 = OK

My photog friends who have all kinds of nikkors have same kind of experiences too.. Ai-S 50/1.2 Ok but with play, pre-ai Nikkor-N 24/2.8 = dry and loose, Ai-S 85/1.4 earlier sn than mine = dry... the list goes on. Of course they have some OK samples too like one Ai-S 180/2.8 ED which is great (and I've been planning to buy that particular sample) ... but the odds of getting a dry or otherwise not that good lens feel pretty high

Exceptions don't prove the rule. Heavily used/abused/amateur-serviced examples are often problem children. None of your problems with my various generations of used NAI/AI/AIS Nikkors--I'd not call that luck. Just curious why you'd put up with the problems, especially on locally-sourced lenses you could try before buying?

Christiaan Phleger · Nov 4, 2010

Is it the older metal focussing ring or rubber ring? I've worked on both, the metal one is better built but both can be worked on fairly easily. I got my grease right from Nikon Parts years ago, slowly working thru my small jar of it, I use just a tiny dab on a finger tip, just the lightest brush of the fingertip, but I like the focus to be really light but smooth.

j-dogg · Nov 4, 2010

The metal one, having trouble with some of the screws. Won't come off, PB blaster?

CGW · Nov 4, 2010

j-dogg said:
The metal one, having trouble with some of the screws. Won't come off, PB blaster?

They were usually secured with a proto-Loctite. Nikon Canada techs used a conical tip soldering iron to gently heat and soften the glue.

j-dogg · Nov 5, 2010

You rock, I have an iron here I'll get to it tomorrow. Would love to restore this back to shooting condition, it's pretty rough. I've restored neglected Italian racing bicycle frames so an old Nikon lens should be an interesting job.

Smudger · Nov 5, 2010

Repairing your Nikkor..

Trust me,you are about to make a big mistake.
NEVER go in from the bayonet mount end. Start by removing the front plate (lens ser.no,etc),using a friction grip.
Inside you will typically see the front cell section,which unscrews. In the f/1.4 version,the entire optics come out as a unit,so you can faff about with the focusing helicoid. Make notes as you go..
This has worked for me on every Nikon prime.Zooms are an entirely different matter.

dehk · Nov 5, 2010

It can be disassemble fairy easy and quickly. Just have to remember where everything goes and careful when you take it apart.
Take it all apart, clean the helicoids with tooth brush and soap, dry, re-apply lube, put it all back together. You should be able to do all this in about an hour. Cleaned plenty of lens this way.

Wade D · Nov 5, 2010

I have disassembled many lenses and the one you have should be a piece of cake.
The front ring comes off with a friction pad. After that a spanner wrench is used to remove the elements. Just remember how they go back in and whether there are any spacers. Everything should be laid out in the order that it came out of the lens on a clean cloth. Once the elements are out then a solvent can be used to clean the crud from the focusing mechanism. If the iris blades are clean try not to get any solvent/crud on them or they will have to be cleaned as well. Once the focusing mechanism is LIGHTLY lubricated then the elements should be cleaned and reinserted. DON'T forget any spacers as this would alter the focus of the lens. It sounds complicated but when it is in front of you it is very straight forward. The most important thing is to take your time and observe every step so it can be repeated when reassembling. Disclaimer, I have not taken apart this particular lens but have done many others for myself and a few close friends including a very nasty zoom which was a big challenge. All are now in perfect working order. No, I will not do this for others as it a pain in the a$$.

Brian Legge · Nov 5, 2010

Ihmemies said:
...
Nikkor Ai 35/1.4 = Smooth but very stiff and gets stiffer in cold
...

It doesn't get that cold here... send it over here and I'll make sure it doesn't get worse.

I just took apart a Nikon Sigma AF lens yesterday to deal with the AF cogs coming loose. Turned out after a bunch of disassembly that it was simply to loose screws. Dealing with relubing the helicoid can be a much more messy procedure due to the multiple places where you can start screwing it back on. Be really sure you need to do this before taking it apart - and take notes about where it goes. Or alternatively, be prepared to spend a while trying to find the correct slot to screw it in.

j-dogg · Nov 5, 2010

You are awesome and thanks.

The trouble I have been having is getting that first screw off of the top, and the three on the sides. Today I'm going to the hardware store to find some ultra-teeny screwdrivers.

The other issue I am having is getting the rear element off.

Good thing is I was hoping to finish this before the Shuttle launch and it got scrubbed again today so this gives me some time to work some magic. With any luck I can save this poor guy from the trash heap. I've seen photos on APUG taken with this lens and they are astonishing.

Off to work!

j-dogg · Nov 5, 2010

I think it's a lost cause now, two of the bolts on the side are stuck and one of them has a rounded head and I used hear from my soldering iron to try to melt the loctite stuff.

Can't get the top ring off with the Nikon writing either, damn thing must have sat outside and got corroded or something, I see some corrosion on the barrel.

Ihmemies · Nov 6, 2010

CGW said:
Exceptions don't prove the rule. Heavily used/abused/amateur-serviced examples are often problem children. None of your problems with my various generations of used NAI/AI/AIS Nikkors--I'd not call that luck. Just curious why you'd put up with the problems, especially on locally-sourced lenses you could try before buying?

Price? I don't really mind since they can be regreased easily enough. I'm just saying that Nikon doesn't use very long-lasting greases in lenses. Or maybe they last in some kind of "easy" enviroments or when not used at all? My lenses don't show signs of abuse.

The loctite on screws isn't a problem if you have proper screwdrivers.. at least mine have opened easily enough with firm grip ands lots of force - without damaging the screw. Damaging screws is probably the worst thing you can do to a lens, short of dropping it and warping the helicoids

j-dogg · Nov 6, 2010

Well I haven't done the last two yet so there is still hope

I've disassembled other lenses just to clean elements without an issue, I did my Vivitar 55-135 f3.5, two of my AF Canons and my Rokinon 80-200 f4.5 this is the first one that has given me some trouble.

John_Nikon_F · Nov 7, 2010

The metal focus ring 50/2 does have a tiny screw holding the lens data plate on, unlike the Nikkor-S 50/1.4, which just has a threaded data plate. It's a small black slotted screw. Might need something like a 1.2mm slotted screwdriver to loosen it, since the Wiha 1.5mm x 40 screwdriver is too big to fit.

With respect to Nikkors usually being junk, it all depends on how much you are willing to pay for a lens. A decent one will be more than an UG grade lens that has focus issues. Pentax lenses can suffer from the same problems. Granted, since Pentax 35mm cameras usually aren't shot professionally, their lenses are usually in better condition at a certain price level.

-J

Ihmemies · Nov 8, 2010

Maybe there's more variety in USA. Probably a lot more. In Europe it feels like there's a few lenses for sale once in a while.. and if you want to buy lenses from Finland, better wait a few years.. and hope the only sample pops up isn't bad. It's a lot easier to use a bit of your own time to buy some decent looking lens from internet and regrease it, than not to buy a lens at all :I

And still I'm not saying Nikkors are junk, only the grease is. It's like oil in cars.. it will turn into junk eventually. Especially if you don't change it every so often. Only place using "UG" is KEH, and I think KEH only grades gear on how they look, not how they feel. Also the feel is subjective.. for some lenses might be OK, while others want a better feel.

Here's a set of my 1.4 lenses - http://www.flickr.com/photos/ihmemies/5104153467/sizes/l/in/photostream/ - for me they looked like new and of course every seller said focus is smooth (what else they can say?). Well, subjectively it might have been, but not good enough for me. It would be nice to buy gear from some trusted place with good return policy, like KEH, but they don't have any of that in Europe.

(and here's a picture of a lens I'd categorize as ugly: http://kenrockwell.com/nikon/images1/24mm-f28-aid/24mm-ugly-KEN_6117.jpg )

Nikkor 50 f2 repair

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