Nik Silver two

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I'm new to the digital black and white processes. I have some images I want to convert and was told I should invest in Nik Silver two program. Any of you guru's have used it? I see thevfirst version is going for 80-90 dollars. Should I buy that instead?
Thanks!
 

ann

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Do you mean Nik SIlver Efex Pro?

I like it very much, and have upgraded to version two, but I really haven't had time to compare the new features with the older version.
It remains me of the darkroom.

You might try the first version at that price and see how you like working with the program and then consider an upgrade.
 

donbga

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Nik SIlver Efex Pro is a good product, though LR 3 has some very good B&W conversions. Download the trial and give it a whirl.
 

Bob Carnie

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Robert

I do not like using plugins, I prefer to channel blend using the apply image and blending modes,then curve shaping , then convert to greyscale.

At first it is hard to figure out but with practice wonderful method of converting to black and white.

reasons- I do want to learn the whole package of PhotoShop- I do search the channels to look for bad noise and try to get rid of bad stuff lurking in a channel before conversion.
I do not believe the manufacturers of plugins have a practical knowledge of print making and are basically making applications that at first run, are convienient and fast, but
in the long run may not give you the control you may be looking for.
Maybe that is why I prefer a stick shift with clutch .

Others will certainly disagree, but I am just saying , there really are no shortcuts to good workflow which does include the bw conversion step that is full of issues if not done right.


Bob
 
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Do you have notes of what you do? Sounds complicated.


I'm not that sure as it is with digital. Spent a lifetime in a darkroom.
 

pschwart

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I bought Silver EfEx, then determined that I was getting identical results just using Photoshop tools so I quit using it. I think you can download a trial so it's worth a look.
 

Bob Carnie

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Robert

Basically it is simple once you grasp the PS methodology , but since you may not be comfortable with PS it is a learning curve.( For me it was , courses with various teachers, lots of reading and days and days of practice on a series of different images, this took me about 3-4 years to be as comfortable with PS as I am in the darkroom.)
I would say that if you have patience and a willingness to learn a good starting place to learn about this is Kelby training, > Dan Margulis> and be prepared to be flumixed for awhile. For anyone serious about hybrid work, a good working knowledge of the four main modes- Greyscale-RGB-LAB- CMYK is essential.
If all you are ever going to do is make inkjet prints in RGB well , plugins may be for you. We are making multiple hit alt prints from various source input, since most capture is in colour
nowadays , knowing how to translate that to a black and white image is important.

BW Conversion

All I am doing is looking at the image , channel by channel, then picking channels that I think have the best information, usually the green channel has the best
info, but not always, the red has good info, and the blue sometimes has all the crap. As the sensors of digital cameras become better the channels are cleaner.
by using Apply Image I look at lets say the green channel, then I will add the red channel on top at a reduced opacity, by changing the opacity,by changing the blending modes, I will see which combination gives me the look I am after, then I will decide if adding the blue makes any sense, usually it gives a bit more detail but most times I am happy blending the two best channels.
Once the blend of the channels is done , I will open the curve dialoque box which will be the green curve as it is the open channel. then curve shape at this point to improve the image.
Once the image looks like a winner, I will change mode to greyscale, dump the non required channels and Bobs your Uncle.

**A harder work flow would be to go into Lab mode first, then do a curve adjustment to basically drive the colours apart, the colour looks phoney , but the separation between colour tones is more apparent. Go back into RGB and then do the above.
If done right you will get better separation in the coloured areas than you would get with a basic conversion.***

You need to figure out the settings and this is where Margulis Teachings is very helpful.
Just mentioning his name causes reactions by people, some hate, hate , hate his workflows and argue they are all wrong, others like me embrace his teachings and take from them what is important. I spent four three day workshops with him, in Chicago and Toronto, they are intense , usually around 12 hours average per day and you do not feel good leaving one of his workshops. But by practicing his methods, the light turns on at some point and it all starts making sense.
Margulis will not let you use plug ins or selections to do the course. I saw many people walk out in disgust after one day, blowing the $2800 course fee and not to mention hotel and travel costs.

If a plug in is not letting you dump channels and play with the local contrast then I would say you are just as well off using the BW conversion function that is in CS3 and above.
This function is cool, it will make you look like a star very fast, but remember it is keeping all three channels and there could be some woopass lurking in one of them.

Bob

Do you have notes of what you do? Sounds complicated.


I'm not that sure as it is with digital. Spent a lifetime in a darkroom.
 

donbga

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