Newbie Question: First home-film development!

[EvanK]

Hello everyone!

I'm looking at shooting primarily B&W film, as it's good for indoors and out, plus it gives the film a nice classic appeal. The only problem with B&W is that there isn't really any places around here to get it developed, so I'm looking into doing it at home. Plus, it would be neat to get the satisfaction of self-development.

So, here's what I THINK that I need:

-Dark room (Probably would be a bathroom, I'd cover up any areas where light would come it with blankets and towels)
-Developing Tank
-Film Reel
-Developer
-Fix
-Stop
-Water
-Container for soaking film? (I'm really not too sure how to rinse the film)
-Timer
-Thermometer
-Place to hang and dry
-Protective sheets
-Scissors

Anything else? Something I don't need from here? How should I use all of this? I'm not really sure how you base the times on the temperatures, and if there really is an ideal temperature. Any help please?

Thanks!

-Evan

 

[dehk]

You might also consider a dark bag, and a pop bottle opener to open the film cassette.
Use the dev tank to wash your film, just open the top and let water run into it, once you get the tank it's pretty self explanatory.

You can check the time and temp for your film and developer here http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php

Lets say you're using Kodak Tri X 400 and D76 as developer. And you're going to develop it as ISO400 box speed.
On the chart, it will say.
Tri-X 400 D-76 stock ISO 400-800 Time 6.75Minute 20C
Now, If your chemical temp is not 20C.
Go to this chart: http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php?doc=timetemp
and find the new temperature and time combination.

Warmer developer makes it develop faster, cooler developer makes it develop slower. Its recommended that you don't want to develop your film in less than 5 minutes or you may get uneven development.

 

[dehk]

You also gonna need bottles for chemical storage, Hypo clearing agent is preferred, and Photoflo is a must.

 

[dehk]

And for timer I just use a computer program called XNtimer for free. That is if you want to sit in front of your computer and develop your film.

 

[MattKing]

Hi Evan:

You have a local internet source that may help with supplies and knowledge - darkroomcentral. Here is a link: Dead Link Removed

Here are another link or two that may help you get started:

Ilford: Dead Link Removed

Kodak: http://wwwtr.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/aj3/aj3.pdf

Your list looks pretty good. I would add a wetting agent like Kodak Photoflo or the Ilford equivalent.

Hope these help.

It is great fun!

 

[Kevin Caulfield]

Your list looks fine. Film just usually gets rinsed in the tank. Have fun.

 

[Kevin Caulfield]

One more thing you may need - bottle opener to get the end off the 35mm film roll.

 

[fschifano]

And for timer I just use a computer program called XNtimer for free. That is if you want to sit in front of your computer and develop your film.

Most cell phones have timer apps built in these days. You can use that. I do. It works. Some of the fancy ones will count down and set beeps at predetermined intervals too. What more can you ask for?

 

[Diapositivo]

You might also need some graduated cylinders for proper mixing on chemicals, and some plastic syringes for lifting the liquid concentrated (if you use any) from the bottle. You can use the normal kitchen ones but photographic shops will sell you specific cylinders which are probably better both as plastic quality and as precision of marks are concerned.

I would add some cotton gloves to handle film.

I am a "film retriever" and I think that film retrieving is easier for a beginner (like I am) than opening the canister. So I would also add a film retriever to the list.

Fabrizio

 

[tkamiya]

Just a tip on getting your bathroom dark enough -

I use what's called "Contractor's Clean up Bag" sold at home improvement stores. These are nothing more than over-sized and thick garbage bags. Two layers of this stuff will completely (sufficiently) shut off incoming light and they are cheap. Towels and blanket will probably not be sufficient and harder to handle.

If you have no idea how to develop film, my suggestion to you is to go to a library and check out old photography books. My favorite is "Photography" by Barbara and John Upton. When you ask a question like this on internet, you'll get all kinds of answers. I think, it is important for you to know the very basic first before considering "best practices" by individuals which may or may not apply to your particular situations.

Anyway, have fun.

 

[EvanK]

Thanks for all of your responses!

A few more questions, one, how much would this all cost, and two, how should I dry the negatives?

Also, I'm still a little unclear on the temperatures of the water and chemicals, and the times.

Thanks!

-Evan

 

[Jeff Kubach]

I use a wire shirt/pants hanger and some clips and let time do the rest.

Jeff

 

[MattKing]

Hi Evan:

As for cost, you need to differentiate between equipment and supplies like chemistry.

With rare exceptions, you will need to buy chemistry new, so costs should be determined by either going to a store or visiting a website (like darkroomcentral).

As for equipment, a lot of it can be acquired used from sources like Craigslist. There is a fair amount of unused darkroom equipment out there. In addition, items like measuring beakers can often be found in the kitchen section of places like dollar stores.

If I were you I would ask at your local photo store, but also keep my eyes on Craigslist and other sources for used goods. Asking here on APUG wouldn't hurt either - there are at least a couple APUG regulars in Manitoba, and many of us who do darkroom work have extra items.

For temperatures and times when using B & W, there are a couple of things to remember:

1) most processes are designed to work at or near room temperature;
2) for a particular roll of film, it is important to use the same temperature for all steps in a process;
3) the most commonly used reference temperature is 20C (which is 68F).
4) if your circumstances require it, you can probably use any reference temperature between about 16C and 24C, as long as the temperature you choose is applied throughout each step (including washing at the end);
5) for the first main step (developer) only, it is critical that the time you use is matched to the temperature. By this I mean if you use 20C, you will need to use one time, whereas 18C will require another (longer) time and 24C will require another (shorter) time. The manufacturers of the films and chemistry publish charts showing what time they recommend for each combination of film, developer, time and temperature.

In my case, I find it easy to maintain a process temperature of 20C, so that is what I use.

There are a bunch of variables that you can use to fine tune the manufacturers' recommendations and "tweak" your results to your liking. At your stage of experience I wouldn't worry about them - instead you should try to standardize your methods so that in short order you can obtain repeatable satisfactory results.

For the same reason, I would suggest starting out with one fairly standard film (eg Tri-X or HP5 or Plus-X or FP4), one standard developer (D-76 or ID-11 or HC-110 or Ilfotec) and either Ilford or Kodak basic chemistry for the rest. That way you can keep control over as many variables as possible.

Oh, and as for drying film, I string a bungee cord over the tub, and hang the film using special dollar store plastic clothes-pins with hooks on each end of the film. Don't forget to pull the shower curtain closed while the film dries .

Have fun

 

[Huub]

Would like to make some comments on Mattking answer

2) for a particular roll of film, it is important to use the same temperature for all steps in a process;

This is true in a general sence - but only the development is very critical - small changes of a couple of degrees in stop, fix and rinse won't have much influence at all. Two to three degrees is very acceptable...

4) if your circumstances require it, you can probably use any reference temperature between about 16C and 24C, as long as the temperature you choose is applied throughout each step (including washing at the end);

Not all developers like cold temperatures: better stay above 20 C. And rinsing becomes almost ineffective below 15 C

For the same reason, I would suggest starting out with one fairly standard film (eg Tri-X or HP5 or Plus-X or FP4), one standard developer (D-76 or ID-11 or HC-110 or Ilfotec) and either Ilford or Kodak basic chemistry for the rest. That way you can keep control over as many variables as possible.

Would like to add XTOL to that list - has good storage capacity and is a very good overall developer. Lots of people use it 1 + 1. Stop can be replaced by simple household vinegar (1 + 3 or 4 parts water will do) or even by a water bath. Fix can be just any fix... Select on price and availabilty i would say.

 

[tim k]

Chemicals for 30.00-50.00 depending on what you get.
Everything else, depends on how good a shopper you are, and how big a hurry your in. You should be able to find someone giving up an entire darkroom from free up to the skys the limit. Realistically you should be able to get an entire darkroom setup for under 100.00 quite easily, including an enlarger.

 

[CGW]

Hello everyone!

I'm looking at shooting primarily B&W film, as it's good for indoors and out, plus it gives the film a nice classic appeal. The only problem with B&W is that there isn't really any places around here to get it developed, so I'm looking into doing it at home. Plus, it would be neat to get the satisfaction of self-development.

So, here's what I THINK that I need:

-Dark room (Probably would be a bathroom, I'd cover up any areas where light would come it with blankets and towels)
-Developing Tank
-Film Reel
-Developer
-Fix
-Stop
-Water
-Container for soaking film? (I'm really not too sure how to rinse the film)
-Timer
-Thermometer
-Place to hang and dry
-Protective sheets
-Scissors

Anything else? Something I don't need from here? How should I use all of this? I'm not really sure how you base the times on the temperatures, and if there really is an ideal temperature. Any help please?

Thanks!

-Evan

Watch the maestro in action here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6P9bNcBE_Hc&feature=related

 

[bblhed]

Watch the maestro in action here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6P9bNcBE_Hc&feature=related

I was wondering if someone would post that video, that thing is too funny, but also it shows just how easy and fun it is to process film. And no Jason, that apron is black, and black is a slimming color, so it doesn't make you look fat.

You will need a wetting agent as others have said, soap is not Photo-Flo, Photo-Flo is Photo-Flo, you will also need to either make up a gallon of it, or get a baby liquid medication syringe so you can add 2.5cc to the two cups of water you need to make up your wetting solution using Photo-Flo 200. Yes I know that isn't exactly right, but it is really close to the 1:200 mix.

Remember processing film at home was originally designed to be simple so anyone could do it, Chemistry made simple so that it is fun! Trust me when you pull out that first roll of film and see that there are actually images on it you will be amazed!