!!NEWBIE!! help me with film

[Flyfishdk]

Hi there

I'm not a real newbie... I've just started to experimenting with film photography again... I normally use a Tri-X 400 as film. I would like a much faster film because my normal style when shooting my PJ stuff is often on high ISO on my nikon D3s. examples of my work can be seen here: Dead Link Removed

But with film should I choose if I want a faster film and what developer? I like big grains. I develope my negatives and then scan them.

 

[Thomas Bertilsson]

There are two ways to do this:
1. Use either Ilford Delta 3200 or Kodak Tmax 3200. You can get decent results with these films up to an exposure index of 6400 using speed enhancing developers such as Kodak TMax, Kodak Xtol 1+1, Ilford Ilfotec DD-X.
2. Use Tri-X, shoot it at 3200 or 6400, and then use Rodinal at 1+100 and use what's called standing development. What you do is agitate the film continuously for the first 30s, then for a couple of tank inversions every minute for the first five minutes. Then let it sit until 60 minutes have passed. Some people don't believe good results can be had this way, but I've done it, and so have others.
Some people report uneven development with technique number 2, so there is some risk involved. Others will say that they never had a problem and their negs are always fine.

Anyway, there you have it. Two ways to get high speed and large grain.

- Thomas

 

[Flyfishdk]

Hi Thomas

Thanks a lot That was some info I could use. I think I will try technique 2... just for trying it... my film work is for me and for experimenting and not really for my clients. I just want to find back to the basic and get some slowness into my photography life again.

what about stop bath and fixer? with will be the best and for how long? I use now ID11 1+1, ilfo stop and ilfo rapid fixer.

 

[Thomas Bertilsson]

Good luck. Report back how it went.

Vi har ett skandinaviskt forum her po APUG. Du kan hitta flera film-fotografer i Danmark dar, om du ar intresserad.

- Thomas

 

[Flyfishdk]

Hi Thomas

Der vil jeg være med

what about stop bath and fixer? with will be the best and for how long? I use now ID11 1+1, ilfo stop and ilfo rapid fixer.

 

[degruyl]

With Rodinal, just use the same stop and fixer regime you use currently with ID11. (Rodinal can be purchased under the names R09 One Shot and Adonal, if you can't find Agfa Rodinal)

Be aware that bromide drag, emulsion softening, separation, and uneven development are all cited as possible outcomes of stand developing. Do not let that deter you (the agitation at the beginning helps tremendously). This is an exceptional way to develop high contrast scenes, as well.

If you are concerned, do a slow inversion in the middle, or as many as one slow inversion every 10 minutes.

 

[Flyfishdk]

Hi Degruyl and Thomas

Cool that I can use my stop and fixer for now. I'm thinking of the result using Rodinal and standing developement. how is the contrast with that setup?

Best Regards

 

[degruyl]

It is a compensating developer: it reduces the contrast in the scene.

 

[Flyfishdk]

ok.. If I don't want to reduces contrast how should I then do it?

 

[hpulley]

For high contrast use a more normal developer I say. I like Delta 3200 (at 3200-6400) in HC-110 dilution A 1+15 or Delta 400 (at 1600) in HC-110 B 1+31 for a grainy, high contrast look. DD-X 1+4 works too though it reduces the grain a bit and has trouble building full density in Delta 3200 in my experience.

 

[degruyl]

Not entire sure I want to get into this, at least this early in the morning, but when you push development, the contrast of film goes up. For example, if you push two stops in D76 (ID11) 1+1 the contrast may increase by 10-25%, unless you are using a compensating developer. (I don't have the numbers, here, and the internet is being uncooperative: let's say a Gbar of 0.6 is increased to 0.7 as an estimate).

Pretty much all film developed using the stand technique looks the same. It is difficult to see whether the film was shot at 200, 400 or 1600 or even higher (but this does require longer developing). One thing to remember: use about 3ml of Rodinal per roll / 8x10 equivalent. The other is that if you mix films shot at different speeds, the film that is shot at the faster speed will come out pitch black and the other will be thin.

 

[degruyl]

Personally, I am much more likely to shoot 320TXP at 160 than at 800, so I don't really care. I either have a flash or a tripod. I will say that the only reason I play these games with developing is for contrast control.

I have heard of people shooting Tri-X at ~25000 and stand developing, but I was unable to find the thread (I saw it on rangefinderforum).

 

[Thomas Bertilsson]

I agree. All I'm saying is it seems OP is after not only speed, but a gritty, soot/chalk overall look, and this is not really what stand developing is used for. I think it is overcomplicating things for OP. Easier to just push the hell out of a fast film like HP5 or Delta 3200 with a general purpose speed enhancing developer like Microphen.

I have to agree with Michael on this. I confess that stand development in Rodinal will give finer grain than with Rodinal at 1+25 or 1+50, and that contrast is usually softened a bit from strong contrast scenes.
It is probably best to do traditional pushing, knowing what the OP wants from the negatives. Standing development can save the day, but it isn't for everything, for sure.

 

[Flyfishdk]

Hi all

I'm just taking notice of all this. New world to me to find film again on a more serius plan.

Speed is important for me aswell as grain and contrast. My normal "digital" B/W style is with a HIGH contrast and I like to burn backgrounds,, I would like to find a film and some techniques for getting the best results.

I will maybe ask some more stupid questions when I have read the whole thread again.. please bear with me