So 60% is a sensible solution, since that is almost the saturation level (173g/100ml).
It would be helpful if it was always noted which it was - weight/volume or weight/weight or volume/volume. Normally, in the various things we mix up to make these formulas, we have convenient w/v solutions of stuff like phenidone, benzotriazole, potassium bromide.
It would be helpful if it was always noted which it was
I know its an old topic.
Where I live I cant source cd-4 or its very expensive. I can get CD-3 cheap. Hows CD-3 to CD-4? can I use one instead of another or its totally different and needs for different recipe?
Ammonium Thiosulfate solution is typically sold as 60% w/w solution. You can make 1 kg of Ammonium Thiosulfate 60% solution by mixing 625g (= 600g / 0.96) of your dry powder with 375g water to make 1kg of Ammonium Thiosulfate 60 solution. With a density of 1.325 kg/l this kg will equal 0.75 liters. To make a full liter of Ammonium Thiosulfate 60% solution, you'd have to mix 828g of your powder into half a liter of water.
PS: If the 4% "other stuff" in your powder are not that soluble, you may end up with a milky liquid. It doesn't matter for all practical purposes.
now i have only 400 grams that 96% powder of Ammonium Thiosulfate.
At the same time, the price for a 60% w/w solution is very low and there was no problem with storage. Unfortunately, the minimum orders were a thousand liters. I ended up getting 5 liters of 60% solution from Suvatlar for 45 euros, which contains over 4 kilograms of dry thiosulphate equivalent.
Perhaps you should look at the right place. I buy it as a fertiliser at 1, 5 and 15l bottles. The 5l ones cost about 20€ nowadays. 1l cost me 7€ back in July.
I used the first batch on 20 rolls with good results. now with the second batch I'm already on 18 rolls. I was just curious...
I extend the developing time by 2% per film
I extend the developer time, like I said before by 2% per roll. i extend the fixer time just slightly - 10 min for the 20th film (from starting point 6.5 min)
and I want to ask about bleach, because there I use 3 min with no change. it is OK?
As part of my quest to DIY C-41, I've put together a shopping list that I intend to try out and thought I'd share it with the group for input before I pull the trigger and buy (would hate to buy the wrong thing). Since I'm a hybrid shooter, my goal is get something that will be scannable/digitizable more than printable via analog means.
A couple of things to note: I'm not a professional chemist, but I'm very technically inclined. I realize that I'm new at DIY C-41 and probably don't know what I don't know, so please just point me the right direction if I'm going the wrong way about something and heading for disaster. I'm not going to bite.
With that:
# C-41 Recipe/Formula (updated 2016-10-19, thanks RPC & sfaber17 for input!)
- C-41 Developer:
1. 700ml distilled water
2. 34.0g Potassium Carbonate (Artcraft Part #1250, $17.00)
3. 3.5g Sodium Sulfite (Artcraft Part #1416, $16.50)
4. 1.5g Potassium Bromide (Artcraft Part #1420, $12.25)
5. 2.0g Hydroxylamine Sulfate (Artcraft Part #1716, $16.00)
6. 2.0mg Potassium Iodide (note milligrams, not grams) (Artcraft Part #1290, $15.75)
7. 5.0g CD-4 (Artcraft Part #1095, $37.50)
8. Add distilled water to bring it to 1000ml.
9. Test ph, add Sodium Bicarbonate (baking soda) to bring ph down to 10.1, likely 1-3g. must experiment.
- C-41 Stop Bath:
1. 700ml distilled water
2. 10ml Glacial Acetic Acid (Artcraft Part #1689, $10.59)
3. Sodium Sulfite (Artcraft Part #1416, $16.50, purchased as part of developer above)
4. add distilled water to make 1000ml
- C-41 Bleach:
1. 700ml water
2. 80.0g Potassium Ferricyanide (Artcraft Part #1280, $18.00)
3. 20.0g Potassium Bromide (Artcraft Part #1420, $12.25, purchased as part of developer above)
4. Add water to make 1000ml
- C-41 Fixer:
1. 700ml water
2. 160ml Ammonium Thiosulfate, 60% (Artcraft Part #1050, $9.95)
3. 1.0g EDTA Disodium (Artcraft Part #1130, $16.00)
4. 11.0g Sodium Metabisulfite (Artcraft Part #1375, $6.25)
5. 2.5g Sodium Hydroxide (Artcraft Part #1759, $9.00)
6. Add water to make 1000ml.
7. Test ph, add Acetic Acid or Sodium Bicarbonate to get ph to 6.5
- C-41 Stabilizer: (per PE on APUG, definitive word on color stabs forum thread)
1. Photoflow 200 mixed per directions on bottle to make 1000ml.
2. 10 ml Formalin 37%
# Process (100F/38C)
1. 01:00 Pre-wet/temper
2. 03:15 Developer
3. 00:45 Stop Bath
4. 04:00 Rinse (8x 00:30)
5. 03:00 Bleach
6. 03:00 Rinse (6x 00:30)
7. 06:30 Fixer
8. 06:30 Wash (8x 00:30)
9. 01:00 Stabilizer
About 10 grams - has a purifying effect. However, you will need a pretty good wash before bleaching. If you use standard DTPA C-41 bleach, it is not so important.
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