Newbie B&W process and print.

First off, thanks all for the invaluable advice I found searching the archives and following other threads. This information led me to my intention outlined below. I guess I’m asking if I’ve overlooked/mistaken anything prior to ordering my consumables along with a few specific questions along the way.

Shooting 35mm with an Aperture priority body letting the camera make metering ‘decisions’ for consistency (ie, no +/- exposures). Most likely Yashica GSN as mine’s had a recent CLA, and I like it. Avoid using filters to start.

Buy in moderate quantity (is 10 rolls and 200 sheets enough?) the following to ‘force’ consistency of materials.
400Tri-X & D76/ID11 Ilfostop, Ilford rapid fixer.
Kentmere Gloss VC 8 X 10 RC paper & Dektol, Photoflow.(see note).(use same stop and fix? Need harden fix?)

I have all the equipment I think though my safelight will be mechanic’s trouble lamp with safelight bulb (yes, I’ll keep it on the dry side...<grin>).

Note: I’d prefer graded paper as my enlarger has no filter drawer but low cost graded papers don’t seem to be stock anywhere. I’m thinking that mounting an ilford 2.5 above lens filter (because I have 2 sets of these purchased with ‘lots’ of equipment making this a zero additional cost option) onto the bottom of my condenser with magic tape might work as a ‘standard’ to start with? Would I be better off to just be patient and order/wait for graded paper? I may eventually find an accessory drawer for my enlarger or buy a below lens filter kit, but for the moment I’m trying to contain my cost as much as possible.

Assuming I do have all required equipment, am I generally on the right track?

Thanks,

Matt.

Dear Matt,

You are fine to start with. You don't need to use a hardening fixer. Try simply placing the contrast filters on top of the negative carrier. Taping them will just make it harder to make adjustments. Of course, in the beginning just getting a print with decent exposure is enough to make one happy.

Good luck,

Neal Wydra

You could check a local library for more information.

Jeff

If you decide to go with VC paper, you will want to make certain you can place filters in such a place as you will not have to risk moving the negative to change them. I would think 200 sheets would get you started. If you are using a small room where you have to setup/breakdown for each use. If you have a standing darkroom, you'll go through it quickly.

You can usually get a below-the-lens holder for contrast filters. It will clip onto something, anything really. I believe Ilford sells a box of Multigrade filters and a holder for just such a purpose.

I always do my initial prints on VC paper with out a filter. This is the same as grade 2. Once I can make a good print then I decide if I need to adjust contrast. Then I pick the filer or paper to get the print I want. So even If I had to filters I'd go with VC paper to start.

I would also recommended variable contrast papers. Ilford has a set of filters with a bracket where it attaches to the lens. You pay a little more but these are convenient. I have these on both of my enlargers that also didn't have the drawer. You also get a lot more surface texture and tones with multi-grade papers. Your initial investment in the filter kit won't be wasted.

Oriental Seagull Rc Vc II papers are treating me very well presently and are definitely a, more or less, economical option without resorting to the 'cheap' papers.

Dear Matt,

Hope all goes well, I too like printing with graded papers but 95.00% of what I do print is with VC papers not just for the convenience, but because they are so flexible, split printing etc, etc.

Regardless, PM me your home address and I will send you the MULTIGRADE printing manual that should be some good 'start up' reading and good luck.

Simon. ILFORD Photo / HARMAN technology Limited :

In all honesty? Here's what I'd do: use VC paper with no filter. That should be about grade 2. Learn to print that way, changing film exposure and processing rather than fudging the paper, until you get pleasing prints. So far as possible, keep a log so you can repeat accurately. Then, once you know that you can print, go ahead and try graded paper, VC paper with filters to change contrast, etc., until you see how they work. You'll end up a much better printer that way, even if you get pretty frustrated along the way.

For inexpensive graded paper, try Freestyle Sales Co. in Hollywood, CA. Their Arista.EDU RC graded paper only comes in grades 2 and 3, however, which is pretty common these days for graded paper. Their variable contrast RC paper is also economical to learn on, although personally I don't like RC paper; it's only advantage from my point of view is that it speeds learning by a small degree because it processes and washes quickly, letting you make more prints in a given amount of time. Printing a lot is a good way of learning.

Mike

Matt, I actually like your idea of the 2.5 filter under the condenser to begin with. If you stick with one film, one developer and one time/agitation scheme, you should be able to get consistent 2.5 negs in no time. You can put a filter on the negative carrier with a diffuse light, but a condenser is going to focus the dust.

I'm not certain your enlarger bulb is going to give you a grade 2. If you had a way to confirm that, then that would be the way to go as Mike said.

on track

i would definitely get the filters and a holder that will attach to the lens - both ilford and kodak have/had them...
being able to use different filters will make your printing sessions eminently more fun, productive and worthwhile...
yes, dump the hardener... dektol is good!

welcome - you'll have drunk the kool aid and are hooked! it's great!

Thanks guys.
I picked up the paper and chems today. Just have to block out the last light leaks in my 'darkroom' and I'll be into it.
I really appreciate your input, a little confidence boost and some useful suggestions are worth a lot at the start of a new venture.

Thanks again,

MattC

If your on the budget, you can probably rig up something to hold your filters. Specific parts for enlargers are hard to find used or new cheap. My omega 760xl didnt have the accessory tray, so i just slide the filters in between the condensers LOL probably not the best solution, but it works until i get my lpl running. but starting out dont worry about it. crank out a few nice prints without a filter, and go from there. in the end, it will only help you recognize any deficiencies in your process and help you improve.

You may be fine with the last few light leaks. For B&W printing especially, a tiny bit of light is usually fine as long as it isn't directly falling on the paper under the enlarger or in the developer tray. With your safelight you probably want to do a test anyways for fog and you might as well do one with the safelight off as well before you go to a lot of effort to plug the small cracks.

Update.

Thanks again for your help folks, I've had a couple of sessions in my little room now (film and printing). WOW, I'm impressed at the results I've managed.
My first print, following a couple of test prints covering several different exposures, was really good. (At least compared my inkjet). The black was, well black. Tonal range was pretty good. The finished print seems to have life, depth etc. Of course the next 5 prints were rubbish because I got over confidant...<grin>.
So now I'm on the learning curve (dirty negs, poor exposures, forgetting to start the timer, etc. I'm sure you know what I mean), but I can't wait to get back in there. I can see I'm going to have do a lot of shooting to keep up. The hardship! I hope my wife retains her tolerance.

Thanks again for your support,

MattPC.