New VC Diffusion Lamp House

[PKM-25]

A few things I would want, some bottom line, some pie in the sky...

1. Fitment for the 45MX.

2. Other timer / controller options, maybe pair up with Richard at RH Designs on this.

3. This is the pie in the sky one, ability to localize both contrast grade and exposure to specific parts of the neg as if to burn and dodge by controlling specific LED sets. Think Ansel Adam's not much talked about multi-bulb, rheostat controlled light source. Obviously this would become easier to achieve as the neg size increased to a larger format.

4. This one is *super* pie in the sky and might be considered photoshop. Use either a flatbed scanner, iPhone camera or some other device to analyze neg density by essentially taking a photo or scan of it. Then using an iPad, make local and specific burn and dodge adjustments by touching your finger to the screen. Once the desired range is obtained, make the exposure complete with any burning, dodging and localized grade adjustments in one pass.

For now I will take number one, I think Richard should tackle the second one if no one else does, I would buy that set in a heartbeat...

 

[cardiomac]

How strong is the light output, have you measured it against lets say an 150w bulb in the enlarger ? if the out put is strong I am interested.

Here are the comparisons. Sorry it took so long.

The first print is with the Omega condenser head with a 150W incandescent bulb and an Ilford No. 2 filter. The second print is with a prototype Model 3 lamp head set at grade 2. Both prints were made at f11 for 10 seconds on 8x10 Ilford MGIV RC paper and developed in Dektol 1:2 for 2 min then fixed in Kodafix for 2 minutes.

The results show the Model 3 is about twice as bright as the 150W bulb when using a No. 2 VC filter. When using Nos. 4 and 5 filters, the Model 3 is four times as bright (not shown here). On graded paper, the Model 3 would be expected to be about equal in brightness. However, it is possible to safely double the brightness of the Model 3 at contrast grade 2.5 for graded paper printing. This can be an option in the software.

The Model 3 achieves this brightness while consuming only about 30W of power and transmitting essentially no heat to the negative.

All test prints for the Model 3 will be posted soon to my website.

Question: It would not be difficult to provide an option for f-stop timing in the control software. Is this something that would be desirable?

 

[Ken Nadvornick]

Nice!

I'm in the process right now of making enlargements from overexposed and overdeveloped 50+ year old 35mm negatives. This level of intensity would be a huge help. I'm struggling somewhat with lengthy exposure times for full-frame magnifications on 8x10. These negatives are opaque. I've had to go back to a high-intensity single-tube V54 head and use Ilford under-the-lens filtration for the worst offenders.

Do you have any data regarding effective intensity levels for the low contrast end? Grades 0 and 1? As we've already discussed, there seems to be about a 10x natural exposure time spread between the highest and lowest contrast levels. And my overdeveloped negatives are also very high in contrast, thus requiring those lower filtration levels.

Also as we've discussed, my preference would be for a unit that can be integrated directly into my existing enlarging set-up and workflow. I would prefer to continue using the Zone VI Timer that I've already invested in and grown accustomed to over the years.

The thing about f/stop printers is that I might imagine the bulk of those interested in that approach have probably also already invested in (rather expensive) timing units, and evolved their own workflows around those. My guess is that they may not want to give those up either.

Ken

 

[PKM-25]

The thing about f/stop printers is that I might imagine the bulk of those interested in that approach have probably also already invested in (rather expensive) timing units, and evolved their own workflows around those. My guess is that they may not want to give those up either.

Pretty much, same with how my 45MXT is setup too, but it's nice to see it taken seriously, maybe one day for us Beseler users...

 

[George Collier]

I've been watching this thread, but may have missed the answer to this, sorry if I have -
I use an Aristo V54 single bulb unit with a filter drawer above the neg stage, and an Aristo dimmer device in line, which is a great help making small prints at reasonable exposure times, keeping the f/stop at optimum. Can this new light source be used with a dimmer, and must it be a specific one? The question arises after seeing the comparative exposures to the 150w bulb.

 

[Thomas Bertilsson]

Amazing work! If I were about to change anything about my enlargers, and I came into some cash, I do have an Omega Pro-Lab 4x5 (D2) that I could use this for. Unfortunately my iPhone is only an iPhone 4, but I would probably prefer manual controls if it became available.

 

[Rafal Lukawiecki]

Very exciting news! When you get closer to the end, any chance of speed-matching the output at all grade levels? Also, would love it for my De Vere 504, or a drop-in replacement for Ilford 500H.

Keep up the good work.

 

[bdial]

Nice work, it's very impressive and it's something I'd definitely consider adding to my enlarger (a LPL 4500).

However, FWIW, I am in agreement with Ken and PKM, I have no interest in giving up my f/stop timer, even if the functionality were on a phone app.

For one thing, I don't want to worry that some future phone or even OS update for the same phone may or may not be compatible with my enlarger.
For example, google IOS 6 and bluetooth...

 

[Ken Nadvornick]

For one thing, I don't want to worry that some future phone or even OS update for the same phone may or may not be compatible with my enlarger.
For example, google IOS 6 and bluetooth...

This is an excellent point. Software development environments change faster than product purchasers change underware. It's all about hyper-competition via planned obsolescence. And that obsolescence is often out of the hands of the end-user application developer.

My darkroom is how I get off that high-speed merry-go-round. At least on weekends. I'm not so sure I'd want to willingly throw my enlarging system back onto that same merry-go-round.

For example, I've been considering the purchase of a new Epson V750 scanner. Not to make prints. I'd never do that. But just for it's over-sized (up to 8x10) transparency scanning capabilities for online display. I know it will work with Win7. But what if Epson declines to develop a Win8 driver?

Wouldn't want that to happen to my darkroom...

Ken

 

[fotch]

Call me old fashion, I would want to use my vintage 70's timers.

 

[cardiomac]

Very exciting news! When you get closer to the end, any chance of speed-matching the output at all grade levels? Also, would love it for my De Vere 504, or a drop-in replacement for Ilford 500H.

Absolutely. The grade levels are pretty much speed matched now but there definitely will be the option to tweak them further in future versions of the software.

 

[PKM-25]

If this fits a D2 then maybe it *might* fit my 45MX since I am using the Aristo cold light head that came with my D2...?

 

[Ken Nadvornick]

The OP says this Model 3 version is built into the same external housing as the Model 2. If you look at the Model 2 on his website:

Modern Enlarger Lamps, Model 2

you can see the Omega-specific 4 horizontal bars that match up with the raising/lowering carriage assembly unit unique to the D-series. It's not a circular Aristo-style drop-in. However, since I don't own a Beseler 45MX, I can't say if it might be adaptable or not. I'd be curious if you think so...

Ken

 

[cardiomac]

Nice!

I'm in the process right now of making enlargements from overexposed and overdeveloped 50+ year old 35mm negatives. This level of intensity would be a huge help. I'm struggling somewhat with lengthy exposure times for full-frame magnifications on 8x10. These negatives are opaque. I've had to go back to a high-intensity single-tube V54 head and use Ilford under-the-lens filtration for the worst offenders.

Do you have any data regarding effective intensity levels for the low contrast end? Grades 0 and 1? As we've already discussed, there seems to be about a 10x natural exposure time spread between the highest and lowest contrast levels. And my overdeveloped negatives are also very high in contrast, thus requiring those lower filtration levels.

Also as we've discussed, my preference would be for a unit that can be integrated directly into my existing enlarging set-up and workflow. I would prefer to continue using the Zone VI Timer that I've already invested in and grown accustomed to over the years.

The thing about f/stop printers is that I might imagine the bulk of those interested in that approach have probably also already invested in (rather expensive) timing units, and evolved their own workflows around those. My guess is that they may not want to give those up either.

Thank you for your comments and insights.

The Model 3 is pretty well speed matched across all grades so you can expect grade 0 on my device to be about double the brightness of a 150W bulb at grade 0.

I see your point about being able to integrate a new device into an existing workflow. I certainly could build a hardware controller and did originally intend to do so but I quickly realized that whatever I built would be limited in its capabilities by its limited user interface. The beauty of a software interface is that you get to leverage off the incredible work Apple has done with hardware while freeing yourself to create a controller with nearly unlimited capabilities. Than being said, I did make a prototype box that uses the an LCD display, some knobs and buttons and works well but it would be very expensive to make in the small quantities one could expect to sell and would simply not be viable. However, there is a fellow in England who is building a hardware interface for his own LED device and we have collaborated so that his controller will work with my light box. That may be an option for some people who have existing timers they don't want to part with.

 

[Ken Nadvornick]

...there is a fellow in England who is building a hardware interface for his own LED device and we have collaborated so that his controller will work with my light box. That may be an option for some people who have existing timers they don't want to part with.

Might that be this LED device?

Ken

 

[cardiomac]

If this fits a D2 then maybe it *might* fit my 45MX since I am using the Aristo cold light head that came with my D2...?

I would be happy to supply the light box as a "universal" 4x5 device without the vertical arms that are specific to the Omega enlarger. This would require manually lifting the box off the negative carrier whenever you changed negatives, however.

 

[cardiomac]

Might that be this LED device?

No, not that one. A different developer and a brand new device that has not been released yet. It sounds quite exciting, though.

 

[PKM-25]

I would be happy to supply the light box as a "universal" 4x5 device without the vertical arms that are specific to the Omega enlarger. This would require manually lifting the box off the negative carrier whenever you changed negatives, however.

I am wondering if I can not fabricate some form of adapter plate. What are the dimensions of the box? I just love the idea of cool operating multi-contrast adjustments even if it means using just my iPhone for awhile. If it worked out great then I would move my Stopclock Vario and D2HI head over to my mural enlarger that is currently under construction, no point in wasting a $350+ timer system.

A lot of us split-grade print and loathe the idea of spending $300 and up for a heat generating 500H head with no warranty or parts that is hard to come by in the first place.

It's the kind of innovation that you are doing that is going to be *essential* to keeping would be fine art printers from saying to hell with it and going digital, I am really surprised ILford does not get in on this since it is key...

When it comes to truly professional multigrade printing heads, there is just not crap out there, it's really frustrating.

 

[PKM-25]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Beseler-45M...918?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item337e85572e

If you look closely at the top of the headless 45MXT in this ad, you can clearly see that if you were to remove the clamping hardware, there is almost enough room on top for the unit to sit. One would then have to either cut out the two pieces of support metal in the back that would block the box from siting flush, cut slits in the box for the same reason or make a platform that would allow the box to just clear the angles. If the light source is as big or bigger than the round opening then all I would have to do is make a seat for the diffusion box to sit in, it could stay there and not have to be removed each time I swap negs. I fab stuff out of aluminum all the time, if this generates little to no heat, I could make life even easier and do it out of a combo of black plastic and aluminum.

Ultimately, it depends on what the dimensions of the box are....

If I can get this to work...I think I am in. I would use my iPad-2 without hesitation, would love to not have to put MG filters in front of my Apo-N enlarging lenses all the time.

The OP says this Model 3 version is built into the same external housing as the Model 2. If you look at the Model 2 on his website:

Modern Enlarger Lamps, Model 2

you can see the Omega-specific 4 horizontal bars that match up with the raising/lowering carriage assembly unit unique to the D-series. It's not a circular Aristo-style drop-in. However, since I don't own a Beseler 45MX, I can't say if it might be adaptable or not. I'd be curious if you think so...

Ken

 

[cardiomac]

I am wondering if I can not fabricate some form of adapter plate. What are the dimensions of the box?

The outer dimensions of the box are exactly 5" x 6" in length and width, and about 5" high including the heat sink. The opening in the bottom is just a hair over 4" by 5". I think you could make an adapter to non-destructively fit it to your 45MX. Is it possible to remove entirely the enlarger's upper bellows so that the lamp house may rest directly on the negative carrier? If so, the project would be very easy. If not, then your idea of constructing a spacer plate seems feasible. There may even be a small market for such a device as it would work for the Model 2 lamp house as well.