New to me Nikon F4 not firing.

[Dimitri13]

Just bought a Nikon F4 from a camera swap meet. Popped it open and found some newer batteries that had leaked. Just a leak, no real corrosion to speak of. A quick swab and it was all cleaned up.

According to the battery check (on the MB-21 winder), it has power (two red dots with LR6 batteries). The mirror is not up. On any of the firing modes, the shutter will not fire. I don't see any lights in the viewfinder. Loading a roll of film doesn't wind when I close the back.

This is my first old Nikon (I own a D40, and various canons), so if someone could give me a quick step-by-step on getting started with it (maybe I'm doing something wrong or missing a step), or any suggestions on what could be wrong?

 

[Ricardo Miranda]

You can start by reading the manual a few times until you understand what to do: http://cdn-10.nikon-cdn.com/pdf/manuals/archive/F4-F4S.pdf

If you read the manual, you'll find out exactly why closing the back doesn't do anything.
Check the contacts between the finder and body.
You might need to send it for repair if the leak damaged internal circuits.
And forget the D40. The only thing they have in common is a Nikon badge and a 4.

 

[Theo Sulphate]

So:

* battery check shows two red LEDs
* no lights in viewfinder
* no initial wind of film (finger on shutter release?)
* no firing at S, Ch, Cl, etc.

Probably won't help, but move DX dial off of DX to ISO 100. Also: need to be off DX when there's no film.

From the symptoms, it sounds like a single point of failure that's keeping everything off. The F4, F4S, F4E is a robust camera (I've got two), so once you find the problem it should be good for decades.

 

[Dimitri13]

I read through the manual. I didn't think I missed anything, but was checking just in case. I didn't mention it, but I did press the shutter after I loaded the film to see if it would load, and it didn't.

I checked all the contacts, everything seems good. I did miss just a bit of corrosion on one of the terminals, but nothing even remotely serious.

Theo: Yes, all of those symptoms are correct. I also tried both DX and a set ISO. Still nothing.

If I can't figure out what's wrong, rather than sending it in for service, I figured it'd cost just as much to get a replacement body. One issue though, on cameras with LCD bleed, is that in the prism or on the body itself?

One more thing, the R1 lever only moves a very small amount. Is it supposed to flip all the way out (90* or so)?

 

[Paul Goutiere]

is that in the prism or on the body itself?

Body.

 

[Dimitri13]

Was afraid of that. Assuming I can't fix it, is it worth it to get one with LCD bleed for casual/amateur use, or should I spend the extra $40 and get a clean one? Or is it worth it to send it to someone for CLA, not knowing the history and use of the camera?

 

[Theo Sulphate]

One more thing, the R1 lever only moves a very small amount. Is it supposed to flip all the way out (90* or so)?

On both my F4S's, the R1 lever barely moves. I guess that's just the way they are. It surprised me at first as well.

 

[shutterfinger]

Was the battery leak in the grip section or the base section? Replace the section that had the corrosion with another one. You may be able to find another MB21 for less than a good body.

http://www.arcticwolfs.net/data/servicemanuals/MB-21.pdf

 

[vlasta]

One issue though, on cameras with LCD bleed, is that in the prism or on the body itself?

On both, from my personal experiance

 

[Ricardo Miranda]

On my 2 F4 and F4S there's no LCD bleed, even though they were heavily used by professionals.
Don't forget Nikon doesn't make them any more. At one point all will have to be serviced.

 

[Dimitri13]

The leak was on the bottom section.

 

[shutterfinger]

The battery check lights are all but worthless. Alkaline batteries can illuminate both lights in a static condition but not have enough power to run the drive motor. It is best to press the battery check button while pressing the shutter release button on a working camera.

Use the manual linked in my last post to troubleshoot/repair yours or replace it.

 

[Ricardo Miranda]

If there's residue inside the bottom part only, there's one thing you can try: put the bottom portion only without the battery cradle and the cradle immersed in a solution of water with about 20& of vinegar for an hour or so. Let it complete dry for a few hours, maybe even 24h.
That's the way I do whit the small battery holders for the EM/FE and similar. Never tried with the F4S as didn't need to.
Try again with the F4S with new alkaline batteries. That's alkaline ones, not the rechargeable, although the MB-21 shouldn't have a problem with rechargeable. the MB-20 on the F4 shouldn't be used with rechargeable batteries: they only last for a few hours.

 

[Axle]

I've faced a similar issue with my F4s, out in the field, just died part way through the roll. Fresh batteries and she was up and running again.

 

[Dimitri13]

I ended up sending it in for diagnosis. Cheap enough that it's not a big loss if it's done for. Plus, a CLA.

 

[phirehouse]

Please let us know what you find out...

 

[Dimitri13]

Will do. Should have the results in a few days.

 

[Ricardo Miranda]

Thanks Dimitri.
These SLR are very electronic and after 20 odd years things can go wrong.
One of my F4 has the head with the rewind lever slightly bent of being used so many times by a pro journalist. The entire camera looks as it has gone trough a war zone. But, it still works.

I didn't ask this before, but do you remember if the red light on the top left plate turned up?

 

[Dimitri13]

Ricardo, no other lights besides the battery status light came on.

Heard back from the repairman. The PCB is shot.