New to me ETRSi body, need to hear if older lens, backs fit?

PastInk · Mar 3, 2013

Hi all.

I have just received a "new to me" ETRSi body (from eBay). I have a reasonably complete ETR kit from a long time ago. I want to use my ETRSi body with my older lens, backs, teleconverter and bellows.

1. Should these all work with the much newer ETRSi? I know that any ETRSi system only functions might not be available (and what might they be I wonder?) but should I be expecting basic functionality or not?
2. The battery checks out at 6.1 volts by my meter and my lens shutters fire at all speeds (correctly) but the battery check light does not work and the "shutter just fired" light does not work either (so far only tested with my 50 mm lens).
3. If my ETRSi body needs repair does anyone have any good references to share?

Any other thoughts or advice would be appreciated.

Best

Mark

R.Gould · Mar 3, 2013

The answer is simple, I have used older etr backs and lenses on a new etrsi without trouble

wiedzmin · Mar 3, 2013

1) lenses - what type of lenses do you have? MC? They will work. Difference will be vs PE half stop aperture clicks and different construction and as some claims PE are sharper.

2) sorry for suggesting that but are you sure that battery is correctly installed? Some of those batteries have both ends that look alike. Without battery etrsi shutter will work but with only 1/500

3) i have no experience

Photo Engineer · Mar 3, 2013

Older backs do not have all of the safety interlocks and thus you might remove it with the dark slide removed. I would check out all possible combinations with the older backs to see what works and what works and what does not.

PE

PastInk · Mar 3, 2013

Thank you for both replies. I had thought that older/original lens, backs, etc. should work but wanted some corroboration and my web searches hadn't got me that information.

I have the normal lens, a 50 and a 150 lens as well as a teleconverter and an automatic bellows along with a 120 and a 220 back.

I am having problems with the shutter release mechanism which is not battery related (I think).

Oh, and yes I did check the battery (good advice by the way). At one time it was in backwards but I had sorted that out earlier.

Even though it shows a voltage of 6.1 V on my meter I will get another battery and check it out.

I need to sort out my shutter problems though.

Mark

wiedzmin · Mar 3, 2013

PE is right about backs. EI backs with gray dark slide plastic handle and double release wont allow you to remove dark slide when back is not attached. Not sure if thats related to back or to Etrsi but also if you have shutter not cocked but you swapped back and back was already advanced - back wont advance film if you will cock the shutter = you wont loose exposure.

Shutter problem - your concern are those indicator lights not working or the shutter itself?

whowantstoast · Mar 3, 2013

Your battery may be your shutter problem, so I'd check that first. Also, which finder are you using? Some of the AE finders can drain the battery quickly if you don't turn the camera off after using - I always forget. I made some humorous mistakes with my ETRSi when I first got it, and a few times I thought I had camera problems when I didn't. The easiest way to fool yourself is with the shutter release button - it has a safety lock mechanism that will keep the shutter from firing. It's an outer ring on the release button - make sure it's turned all the way to the bottom (there are three settings that control three different ways of firing). I used to hate this lock until I discovered that if I left the camera on, and put it in my bag, the button would depress and take continuous meter readings, running down the battery. Now I love the lock because it keeps this from happening. Also make sure your mirror lock and double exposure switches are in the "off" position (Saint Butkus has the manual here: http://www.butkus.org/chinon/bronica/bronica_etrsi/bronica_etrsi.htm). And since the shutters themselves are in the lenses, see if you can duplicate problems with different lenses. It's a long shot, but it could be a lens. Make sure you test this without the teleconverter.
Hope it's something simple!

As far as older lenses and backs go, it's like everyone says - they all work. BUT, I find that the newer backs and inserts work much better. If you're shooting color you can usually get 220 backs cheap at KEH, and Kodak still sells Portra in 220 size. Have fun! I love my ETRSi, and it can deliver incredible results.

PastInk · Mar 3, 2013

Thank you all for taking the time to reply to my query.

I have tried multiple lenses with the same results. The Seiko leaf shutter fires and adjusts according to the setting of the shutter speed dial.

I am not using an AE finder but the waist level finder.

I have both the user manual and the repair manuals and have read through them

I have the shutter lock correctly set according to the manual at the fully released position BUT with film in the camera (either 120 or 220 back), dark slide out, shutter cocked I cannot depress fully the shutter button to fire the camera. If I rotate the switch controlling multiple exposure to the multiple exposure setting and cock the shutter by turning the crank I can easily depress the shutter button and fire the camera. Upon returning the multiple exposure lever to the single exposure setting the old problem returns of not being able to fully depressing the shutter button.

This appears to me to be a mechanical interlock problem of some type rather than a battery problem but I will check as soon as I can get a new battery.

Now the other problem is that when the lens shutter fires at any speed there is no LED flash to tell me that the shutter has fired although I know it has and I have checked for proper shutter times.

So, two problems which may or may not be related.

I hope this doesn't mean it is off to a repair man but it might have to.

Best

Mark

wiedzmin · Mar 3, 2013

I have the shutter lock correctly set according to the manual at the fully released position BUT with film in the camera (either 120 or 220 back), dark slide out, shutter cocked I cannot depress fully the shutter button to fire the camera.

You can not depress fully or it just does not fire?

I tested on mine and it does not depress fully only if shutter lock is on. With dark slide in and shutter lock off it depresses fully but does not fire. I use newer backs so it may be different on yours.

PastInk · Mar 3, 2013

I cannot depress it fully as if there is a lock still in place. However, if the multiple exposure switch is in the "on" position I can depress it fully and it fires.

Whenenver the shutter fires it is the correct timing as set by the shutter speed dial.

Mark

wiedzmin · Mar 3, 2013

Is the same without back attached? I know you can not fire without back and film in it in single exposure mode - but just to rule out back problem. Did you test with body only, nothing attached (no back, lens, finder even focusing screen? I tested it just now and with nothing attached to the body
shutter lock OFF (9 o'clock position while looking from the front of the camera) , multiple exposure in OFF vertical position - i can not fire shutter (which is normal bc no hack with film in it was attached) but can fully depress it

Shutter lock OFF, multiple exposure in ON horizontal position - i can fire shutter

whowantstoast · Mar 3, 2013

Have you tried using a cable release to rule out a problem with the shutter button? That would at least take one thing off the list of possibilities.

I had a problem with the multiple exposure lever a few years ago that gave me fits during an event, but it was one of those "suddenly started working again" things and never happened again. What I think I remember doing is something you've probably already tried. Wind on with the multiple lever forward, but don't shoot. Flip the lever back and then shoot. Then wind on normally and see if it works.

PastInk · Mar 3, 2013

I have tried the cable release and the situation is the same.

I will try your suggestion with "playing" with the multiple exposure release though as I haven't tried that yet.

Thank you for your suggestions.

Mark

lxdude · Mar 4, 2013

If after everything you find you need to send it for repair, Frank Marshman at Camera Wiz has a great reputation. Jimmy Koh at Koh's Camera was the guy I went to, but he has retired from Bronica repair. I have not used Frank but his reputation is very good, and Jimmy recommends him.

wiltw · Mar 4, 2013

PastInk said:
I have the shutter lock correctly set according to the manual at the fully released position BUT with film in the camera (either 120 or 220 back), dark slide out, shutter cocked I cannot depress fully the shutter button to fire the camera. If I rotate the switch controlling multiple exposure to the multiple exposure setting and cock the shutter by turning the crank I can easily depress the shutter button and fire the camera. Upon returning the multiple exposure lever to the single exposure setting the old problem returns of not being able to fully depressing the shutter button.

This appears to me to be a mechanical interlock problem of some type rather than a battery problem but I will check as soon as I can get a new battery.

Yes, there is a interlock pin at the lower right side of the film back that protrudes from the magazine into the body, and it is what allows the shutter to be released when the magazine has been advanced to a new frame (unless the multiexposure lever is actuated on the body).

Even with a dead battery the body should release the shutter properly, albeit at a fixed 1/500 speed irregardless of the shutter speed control setting (and there would be no blink of the red LED).

PastInk said:
Now the other problem is that when the lens shutter fires at any speed there is no LED flash to tell me that the shutter has fired although I know it has and I have checked for proper shutter times.

With a battery in the body, there should be a red wink from the red led at the lower right of the viewfinder (below the flash ready indicator), which happens when the shutter closes. Failure of the LED to blink normally indicates a dead battery. However, I once had purchased a used back whose interlock pin intruded into the body too far, causing the mirror to not rise all the way, thereby preventing the shutter from firing -- so although the mirror went up the shutter never fired and the red LED never blinked, and the magazine could be advanced to the next frame as if the shutter had properly fired! I had to send the magazine in to Bronica service to have the interlock pin adjusted (the body worked fine with my backs that I had purchased new).

BobD · Mar 5, 2013

You have to either have film loaded or set the ME lever to fire the shutter. That's covered in the manual.

New to me ETRSi body, need to hear if older lens, backs fit?

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