New to Large Format - Questions about my Anastigmat No 32 - 6 3/8" f/4 on a Graphic No 3 Kodak Supermatic Shutter

Alex Caraballo · Apr 5, 2023

Hi, guys

Completely new to this format. Got a Calumet CC400 in its box in pristine shape, some film holders and accessories, and the lens I mentioned in the title attached to it.

Now, questions:

- Does anyone know a way to get my hands on a manual for this shutter?

- What's the order to follow to perform focus, set speed and aperture and then shoot with it?

- I can understand the speeds 1" to 1/200" and B. What's the "T" for?

That's all for now. I'll probably have more questions about what film to use, how to use it and develop at home soon. Thank you all!!

Alex

Mick Fagan · Apr 5, 2023

B is for bulb and requires you to keep holding the bulb to keep the shutter open; so when you release the pressure on the bulb, the shutter closes.

T is for Time, in which you fire the shutter and it stays open without any requirement to hold the bulb. When you are finished you generally move the aperture off the T setting and the shutter closes. Don't hold me to that as I don't have one of those shutters, but T stands for time when incorporated into shutter speed scales.

Dan Fromm · Apr 5, 2023

Go to https://1drv.ms/f/s!AggQfcczvHGN7QPLzcnfQqi0-7pf, get Pacemaker Instructions 1947.pdf

Alex Caraballo · Apr 5, 2023

Mick Fagan said:
B is for bulb and requires you to keep holding the bulb to keep the shutter open; so when you release the pressure on the bulb, the shutter closes.

T is for Time, in which you fire the shutter and it stays open without any requirement to hold the bulb. When you are finished you generally move the aperture off the T setting and the shutter closes. Don't hold me to that as I don't have one of those shutters, but T stands for time when incorporated into shutter speed scales.

Thank you for the info! my first thought was that T was for flash.

Alex Caraballo · Apr 5, 2023

Dan Fromm said:
Go to https://1drv.ms/f/s!AggQfcczvHGN7QPLzcnfQqi0-7pf, get Pacemaker Instructions 1947.pdf

Thank you so much, Dan!! Lots of useful info there!!

MTGseattle · Apr 6, 2023

I love the extra machining that some of the old shutters had.

reddesert · Apr 6, 2023

It looks like you also have a pair of Series VI to VII to 55mm adapter rings and filter. This is a useful accessory.

I think your shutter is not synchronized for flash, but other than that, you can read the section about the Flash Supermatic shutter in the manual that Dan linked, just disregard the parts about flash sync.

The "T" setting should open the shutter with one press of the release lever or cable release, and close it with the second.

I believe this shutter has a press focus button on the side. The operation of this is described in the manual, and I think with this shutter, you cock the shutter and fire it while holding the press focus button down, and it holds the blades open. Then you cock it again to close the blades. (The order of operations is different for different types of shutters).

You open the blades for focusing using either the T or B setting, or the press focus button. Compose, focus, deactivate the T or B if used to close the blades, then set speed and aperture, re-cock the shutter (closes the blades if using the press focus), double check blades are closed, insert film holder, withdraw dark slide, shoot, re-insert dark slide. Look at the checklists on largeformatphotography.info such as https://www.largeformatphotography.info/how-to-operate.html to understand that this is a terse description leaving out several steps.

Rick A · Apr 6, 2023

The 'B' setting is an antiquated term from the days when shutters were actuated by an air bulb. When the shutter is set to B you hold the plunger of the cable release for the duration of the exposure time required, then let go of it and the shutter closes. The 'T' setting requires two actuations to use. You use this setting to compose and focus (if there is no preview function on the shutter). Set to T, trigger the shutter and it stays open for an indeterminate time, trigger it a second time and the shutter closes. Unless the shutter is self cocking, never change the speed with the shutter cocked, only change speeds before cocking the shutter.

Alex Caraballo · Apr 6, 2023

MTGseattle said:
I love the extra machining that some of the old shutters had.

Yeah, industrial design not just for the functional aspects, but also for the beauty of the object.

Alex Caraballo · Apr 6, 2023

reddesert said:
It looks like you also have a pair of Series VI to VII to 55mm adapter rings and filter. This is a useful accessory.

I think your shutter is not synchronized for flash, but other than that, you can read the section about the Flash Supermatic shutter in the manual that Dan linked, just disregard the parts about flash sync.

The "T" setting should open the shutter with one press of the release lever or cable release, and close it with the second.

I believe this shutter has a press focus button on the side. The operation of this is described in the manual, and I think with this shutter, you cock the shutter and fire it while holding the press focus button down, and it holds the blades open. Then you cock it again to close the blades. (The order of operations is different for different types of shutters).

You open the blades for focusing using either the T or B setting, or the press focus button. Compose, focus, deactivate the T or B if used to close the blades, then set speed and aperture, re-cock the shutter (closes the blades if using the press focus), double check blades are closed, insert film holder, withdraw dark slide, shoot, re-insert dark slide. Look at the checklists on largeformatphotography.info such as https://www.largeformatphotography.info/how-to-operate.html to understand that this is a terse description leaving out several steps.

Thank you! Yes, it has a press focus button. Great info on the manual and the website. Just what I needed... I didn't want to start messing with the controls before reading instructions first.

Alex Caraballo · Apr 6, 2023

Rick A said:
The 'B' setting is an antiquated term from the days when shutters were actuated by an air bulb. When the shutter is set to B you hold the plunger of the cable release for the duration of the exposure time required, then let go of it and the shutter closes. The 'T' setting requires two actuations to use. You use this setting to compose and focus (if there is no preview function on the shutter). Set to T, trigger the shutter and it stays open for an indeterminate time, trigger it a second time and the shutter closes. Unless the shutter is self cocking, never change the speed with the shutter cocked, only change speeds before cocking the shutter.

Thank you Rick for the info and the crucial warning on the cocking/changing speed order! It's exactly the kind of advice I was looking for here. As usual, Photrio and it's members are the greatest resource.

John Wiegerink · Apr 7, 2023

I have found that Kodak Supermatic shutters are as good as any if handled properly and fairly easy to demo a CLA to if need be.
as for the No.32 lens? It's a first rate piece of optical glass that in years past had kind of a cult following. If you don't get excellent results from your setup it won't be the fault of your equipment. Have fun with it and enjoy what you have.

BrianShaw · Apr 7, 2023

For me the No. 31, 32, and 33 hold cult status!

John Wiegerink · Apr 7, 2023

BrianShaw said:
For me the No. 31, 32, and 33 hold cult status!

Yes, all three are in the cult class, but I stuck to the N0.32 since that's what he has. I have a No. 33, which I hold in high esteem. In these modern time the No.31, 32 and 33 lenses are all overlooked since they almost always come barrel mounted.

Alex Caraballo · Apr 15, 2023

John Wiegerink said:
I have found that Kodak Supermatic shutters are as good as any if handled properly and fairly easy to demo a CLA to if need be.
as for the No.32 lens? It's a first rate piece of optical glass that in years past had kind of a cult following. If you don't get excellent results from your setup it won't be the fault of your equipment. Have fun with it and enjoy what you have.

Hi, John

Sorry for the late answer, I just found these last messages. Thank you for the info!! I didn't know these were such great quality components. I bought this set with the Calumet and all accessories at a ridiculous price from an Estate Sale in Pasadena, pretty close to my home. I've always wanted to try Large Format and this seemed like my best chance to do it, so I went for it.

I started playing with the set a little and to my relief I confirmed that all mechanisms work. Shutter operates on all speeds, diaphragm is perfect, press focus button works, button and cable trigger work, no weird noises, nothing stuck. After playing a little more and paying attention to details I found a couple of minor issues with the shutter though, surely related to long term inactivity. As you said, nothing a good old CLA won't solve, I believe. I am mechanical oriented, so if you have a demo, a guide or something like that I really appreciate and value your offer.

I'll try to describe the issues the best I can:

- The speed ring moves all the way from 1/200" to "T", but the movement is sticky, not easy as one would expect. It's like the lubricant solidified inside and makes the ring "heavy" to move.

- Something is not right on the shutter itself. I can't tell for sure but I find 1/200th pretty similar in duration to 1/25th. Also, the speeds don't seem to be constant, meaning the same speed appears to be slower or faster from shot to shot. And the wackiest part: If I open the diaphragm to f/4.5 and look through the lens while pressing the shutter, even at fast speeds I swear I can tell the shape of the leafs closing and opening instead of a round white circle, which suggest I can somehow see them moving. Like if they "drag", either when opening or when returning to their close position. I don't know if this is normal on these shutters or not. Seems really odd to me.

Anyhow, it all appears to be lubrication related, and not at all mechanical. I believe I could perform a decent service if well guided. Not much on these on youtube or anywhere else so any help will be appreciated.

Thank you again!!

Alex

John Wiegerink · Apr 15, 2023

Alex,
Other than a weak main spring or gummy slow speed train the Supermatic is pretty trouble free and fairly easy to work on. I don't have a video or diagram of "How to repair a Supermatic shutter", but I can tell you where I would start. I always go the easy, less evasive route when it comes to trying to fix something.
Here's how I would tackle the problem. First, I would go to my local hardware and buy a pint or so of Naphtha. Then I'd go to your local Farm & Family or Tractor Supply and buy some 10ml syringes. Also, buy a couple of cans of dust off (compressed air). Now you should be all set to tackle the shutter.
Unscrew both the front lens group and the rear lens group so all you have is the bare shutter with no glass. Take your syringe and fill it with Naphtha and squirt it onto the shutter blades , in the cable release socket and any opening on the edge of the shutter body itself. This is called flooding the shutter. Now blow out all the areas you shot Naphtha in and your shutter blades also. Now you want to cock and release the shutter at all speeds. If the shutter hangs up don't force it through its cycle. Just flush it again and blow it out. You might have to do this several times, but eventually it will be cleaned of dirt and gummed lubricate. I run my shutters dry with no lube, but if the slow speeds are still sticky after flushing I will usually pull the faceplate off the shutter and use watch makers oil on the slow speed train gears, but from what you describe your shutter doesn't seem to have a sticky slow speed problem. Oh, after I do this cleaning I usually leave the shutter set in the full sun for a few hours to evaporate all the remaining Naphtha.
Give it a try since you have nothing to lose and there will be no damage done. One word of caution and that is that some shutter blades are made of a fiber material and will swell when hit with Naphtha, but not your Supermatic shutter so no need to worry.
Good luck!

BrianShaw · Apr 15, 2023

Alex, John has given some reasonable advice bur note that while some success may be achieved by flooding a closed shutter there is the risk that the old lube will get melted by solvent and redistributed. That’s not good for long-term solution. It’s much better to open the front of the shutter, remove the speed ring and flood such that the solvent washes the innards and flows out… until it the solvent looks pristine clean. Then you can very carefully oil to front side with the slightest amount of watch oil and lightly grease the speed ring. That’s really only half of a full service but most likely god enough.

Do yourself a favor and spend a dollar, or less, on this:

Google Search

John Wiegerink · Apr 15, 2023

Alex,
Brian gives you good advice about getting the repair manual. I have done it the way Brian suggests, but usually try the way I described first. If that doesn't work, I go further into it. When I flush, I stand/hold the shutter on edge, so everything flows down and out. The more you flood, the cleaner it will get. If you have white paper towels under the shutter, you will see particles of dirt and gunk on the towel. Is this a proper CLA? No, but it's always where I start first. KISS!

Alex Caraballo · Apr 15, 2023

John Wiegerink said:
Alex,
Other than a weak main spring or gummy slow speed train the Supermatic is pretty trouble free and fairly easy to work on. I don't have a video or diagram of "How to repair a Supermatic shutter", but I can tell you where I would start. I always go the easy, less evasive route when it comes to trying to fix something.
Here's how I would tackle the problem. First, I would go to my local hardware and buy a pint or so of Naphtha. Then I'd go to your local Farm & Family or Tractor Supply and buy some 10ml syringes. Also, buy a couple of cans of dust off (compressed air). Now you should be all set to tackle the shutter.
Unscrew both the front lens group and the rear lens group so all you have is the bare shutter with no glass. Take your syringe and fill it with Naphtha and squirt it onto the shutter blades , in the cable release socket and any opening on the edge of the shutter body itself. This is called flooding the shutter. Now blow out all the areas you shot Naphtha in and your shutter blades also. Now you want to cock and release the shutter at all speeds. If the shutter hangs up don't force it through its cycle. Just flush it again and blow it out. You might have to do this several times, but eventually it will be cleaned of dirt and gummed lubricate. I run my shutters dry with no lube, but if the slow speeds are still sticky after flushing I will usually pull the faceplate off the shutter and use watch makers oil on the slow speed train gears, but from what you describe your shutter doesn't seem to have a sticky slow speed problem. Oh, after I do this cleaning I usually leave the shutter set in the full sun for a few hours to evaporate all the remaining Naphtha.
Give it a try since you have nothing to lose and there will be no damage done. One word of caution and that is that some shutter blades are made of a fiber material and will swell when hit with Naphtha, but not your Supermatic shutter so no need to worry.
Good luck!

BrianShaw said:
Alex, John has given some reasonable advice bur note that while some success may be achieved by flooding a closed shutter there is the risk that the old lube will get melted by solvent and redistributed. That’s not good for long-term solution. It’s much better to open the front of the shutter, remove the speed ring and flood such that the solvent washes the innards and flows out… until it the solvent looks pristine clean. Then you can very carefully oil to front side with the slightest amount of watch oil and lightly grease the speed ring. That’s really only half of a full service but most likely god enough.

Do yourself a favor and spend a dollar, or less, on this:

John Wiegerink said:
Alex,
Brian gives you good advice about getting the repair manual. I have done it the way Brian suggests, but usually try the way I described first. If that doesn't work, I go further into it. When I flush, I stand/hold the shutter on edge, so everything flows down and out. The more you flood, the cleaner it will get. If you have white paper towels under the shutter, you will see particles of dirt and gunk on the towel. Is this a proper CLA? No, but it's always where I start first. KISS!

Awesome! Thank you so much, John and Brian! I do service my old Nikon lenses and film cameras very often and also did some work on my Mamiya C220's film transport, all with 100% success rate so far. I think I understand what's to be done here. Already have all the supplies (pic). I'll use my airbrush compressor to blow the shutter clean (instead of the cans).

Yesterday I found a fantastic video on youtube of an in-depth CLA on the No 2 shutter:

Mine's not exactly the same but the general process can't be too different.

John, I know you described the easiest route, which I always prefer to try first too. I'm also hopelessly curious and suffer this weird fascination with old mechanical design and manufacturing. After watching that video I got cocky and wouldn't resist the temptation to go a little further and as Brian suggested, take my chances removing at least the front face and speed ring. Taking a peak inside will also let me see exactly how this marvel works too, which will hopefully lead to better results in general.

Will try and find a service guide, always do, but there's not much info online for this specific # 3 Shutter. Thank you for the links, Brian!

As you said before, these components are top quality so I'll have no excuse for less than excellent results if they're working fine. Let's make'em clean and pretty again to start walking the Large Format road with better chances!

Fingers crossed... I'll comment on my results.

Alex Caraballo · Apr 16, 2023

Hey, guys. Finished the CLA on the shutter. Everything normal now. It was, as you suggested, gummy old lubricants making all sticky inside.

Ended up removing the face plate, the speed ring and the self timer ring. Easier to clean with those out of the way.

After flooding and blowing a few times, everything started to move as expected. All speeds, fast and slow, appear to be accurate now. The speed ring moves freely and softly, and the shutter blades are clean. Only used a few minuscule drops of oil in certain parts, and put it back together again.

I may have to open it again just for une thing: The self timer. I did preload the ring 1/3 of the movement, but I guess it wasn't wasn't enough. The system still doesn't have the strength needed to complete the whole cycle. I may or may not do it. I don't think I'll ever use the self timer.

Other than that, all good, all clean, all working. Also cleaned the inner glass. Lens seems to be perfect. It has a minuscule little bubble on the front element, I read somewhere that is normal for these lenses.

Time to learn how to use it now. No excuses.

Thank you all for the comments, tutorials and precious advice.

Cheers from Southern California!

MTGseattle · Apr 16, 2023

Nice work. I once completely took apart the Graflex shutter on a little 127mm Ektar. Needless to say, it's still in pieces. I applaud you for jumping right into a repair/maintenance session as new large format shooter. Now get out there and use up some film!

Alex Caraballo · Apr 16, 2023

MTGseattle said:
Nice work. I once completely took apart the Graflex shutter on a little 127mm Ektar. Needless to say, it's still in pieces. I applaud you for jumping right into a repair/maintenance session as new large format shooter. Now get out there and use up some film!

Well. it wasn't an easy task at all, and only removed the upper parts! A lot of small pieces.

I still have a lot to learn (and a few things to buy) before shooting, though.

Film's easy to find, I still have to figure out the lab equipment and drugs I need. My plan is to do the whole process at home. I mean the negative developed and scanned.

No big deal but I've been away from the darkroom for more than 20 years...

Camera and lens in working order is a big step forward. Hope I'll post results soon.

John Wiegerink · Apr 16, 2023

Alex,
Nice job and doesn't it feel great saving a life. You can do as you wish when it comes to the self-timer, but if I have a shutter lever and a cable release socket on a shutter I would never waste my time messing with the self-timer. Many times the self-timer is the achilles heel of a camera or shutter. If you jam a self-timer most shutters stop working after the jam. Actually, it's what I would call "more trouble than it's worth".

Alex Caraballo · Apr 16, 2023

John Wiegerink said:
Alex,
Nice job and doesn't it feel great saving a life. You can do as you wish when it comes to the self-timer, but if I have a shutter lever and a cable release socket on a shutter I would never waste my time messing with the self-timer. Many times the self-timer is the achilles heel of a camera or shutter. If you jam a self-timer most shutters stop working after the jam. Actually, it's what I would call "more trouble than it's worth".

Thanks John! Absolutely. I really enjoy reviving these old marvels. A few weeks ago I renewed a crappy Nikkor 55mm f/1.2. T'was full of fungus and all sticky. It's like new now, hell of a lens. And agree 100% about the self timer: a solid tripod and a cable will do the job.

New to Large Format - Questions about my Anastigmat No 32 - 6 3/8" f/4 on a Graphic No 3 Kodak Supermatic Shutter

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