New to developing: Suggested developer for ARISTA EDU 100 film (35mm)

[Tim Stapp]

Brand spanking new to developing b/w film. I have a brick of Arista EDU 100 film in 135 format. I'll eventually go to 4x5, also. I'm looking for a good, long lasting, easy to use for newbie developer.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Vaughn]

Hard to beat D-76

 

[summicron1]

amen. fine grain, easy to mix and use, long-storage life. D-76 diluted 1:1 with water and used as a one-shot developer has been my standard for decades.

 

[Tim Stapp]

Is Arista Legacy Pro the same as the Kodak D76?

 

[pentaxuser]

It might all depend on how you define "easy to use" Powder developers like ID11 and D76 require mixing and storage in suitable containers. If this isn't a problem then either tend to be the "universal developer" used most frequently at colleges. If you can store 5L then Xtol "fits the bill" very well

If you want a good general developer in liquid form that does a good job on all films including very fast films and is easy to mix into a working solution then Harman's DDX is very good, if a little expensive.

pentaxuser

 

[ntenny]

Among "ordinary" developers (whatever that means) used conventionally to get something close to box speed, I don't think it matters very much; choose for convenience. Some people find powder developers really convenient, others don't---I'm in the second camp myself, and I think HC-110 is pretty close to ideal for your situation. But the usual suspects probably are D-76/ID-11, HC-110, Xtol; all should work just fine and you won't see enormous differences in the results.

DD-X is Ilford's very-loose-equivalent of Tmax, isn't it? Does it behave well with Fomapan 100? I've never used it but I kind of think of it as a developer for T-grain films.

-NT

 

[Kyle M.]

I'm a big fan of Rodinal myself.

 

[Vaughn]

Is Arista Legacy Pro the same as the Kodak D76?

Close. We used a bunch of it in our university darkroom -- seemed close enough.

Another copy:

http://stores.photoformulary.com/td-16-improved-d-76/

 

[Rick A]

Is Arista Legacy Pro the same as the Kodak D76?

Arista Legacy Pro isn't developer, it's one of their discontinued films. For developer, you want Legacy 76 powder developer as substitute for D-76.
Ariste EDU Ultra is rebadged Fomapan, and unlike modern films has an unhardened emulsion which is prone to pinholes if you use standard dilution stop bath. I recommend either diluting stop by half normal working strength or use two 30 second water rinses before fixing. Whatever you do, do not squeegee the wet film to dry it, you stand the risk of scratching the emulsion. Use a good rinse aid in distilled water and shake the excess water from the film before hanging.

 

[chriscrawfordphoto]

Arista Legacy Pro isn't developer, it's one of their discontinued films. For developer, you want Legacy 76 powder developer as substitute for D-76.
Ariste EDU Ultra is rebadged Fomapan, and unlike modern films has an unhardened emulsion which is prone to pinholes if you use standard dilution stop bath. I recommend either diluting stop by half normal working strength or use two 30 second water rinses before fixing. Whatever you do, do not squeegee the wet film to dry it, you stand the risk of scratching the emulsion. Use a good rinse aid in distilled water and shake the excess water from the film before hanging.

Rick,

Freestyle sells a line of LegaxyPro branded chemicals. Unlike the films, the chemicals are not rebranded Fuji products. The LegacyPro Lmax developer is actually a clone of Kodak Tmax Developer.

 

[R.Gould]

Either D76 used at stock or Rodinal 1/50

 

[Xmas]

Arista Legacy Pro isn't developer, it's one of their discontinued films. For developer, you want Legacy 76 powder developer as substitute for D-76.
Ariste EDU Ultra is rebadged Fomapan, and unlike modern films has an unhardened emulsion which is prone to pinholes if you use standard dilution stop bath. I recommend either diluting stop by half normal working strength or use two 30 second water rinses before fixing. Whatever you do, do not squeegee the wet film to dry it, you stand the risk of scratching the emulsion. Use a good rinse aid in distilled water and shake the excess water from the film before hanging.

Fomapan 100 is a nice film and it is best if you read the manufacturers data sheet.
click on the PDF
http://www.foma.cz/en/catalogue-fomapan-100-classic-detail-406

It is not prehardened so

dont use a prebath
dont use a carbonate developer
dont use an acid stop
hold all solution temperatures to 1C of dev solution

I always use Rodinal 1+100 20C for 60 minutes stand or stock Microphen for a gamma of 0.65 normally (see PDF), 100 ISO on my light meter.

I always use a clean film squeegee as well, cause my faucet water is really hard, never had scratches over few hundred films, YMMV.

The choice of developer is secondary the film does 95% of the characterization, the Foma will burn highlights easily in any developer, dont try pushing the speed, you get the PDF graphs.

 

[Amfooty]

I like Rodinal 1:100. It lasts forever and stand developing is a piece of cake. Plus it helps with the grain and contrast.


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