Yeah, every camera has a "personality". I started with a rail camera also, glad I did. Yes, it could be a bit unwieldy at times but it allowed me to see, learn, and play with all the various movements and to really "get" the "hows & whys" involved in LF. That education allowed me to gather up all the other stuff needed for doing 4x5 and to make much better decisions when I bought my second camera body.Hi! I have started using a Sinar P3 but wonder if a Crown Graphic would be better to use? I have no comparison I would love some advice befor I buy a system. I don't like that the Sinar can not sit on a flat surface allowing lower angels, or maybe I just need a better tripod?
Hi! I have started using a Sinar P3 but wonder if a Crown Graphic would be better to use? I have no comparison I would love some advice befor I buy a system. I don't like that the Sinar can not sit on a flat surface allowing lower angels, or maybe I just need a better tripod?
I was looking at both.Master Technika or Horseman VH-R?
The Toyo 45A and All have really come down in price on the used market lately. A good friend of mine has the 45A. It's a great camera. Toyo 45A and All's are made of metal and are sturdy.
I own a Sinar P. It's a joy to use for portraiture. It's big and heavy and doesn't move if you are clumsy like me and bump it. Just make sure that you mount it on a heavy, sturdy tripod.
Brilliant!If you want to get really low, you can make a version of something we call a "high hat" in film production. For us it's the crown that a head mounts to bolted to a plank of plywood. Since the head for a still camera mounts so simply, you can simply bolt your head to a piece of plywood and you're done. If you drill holds in the center as well as a couple inches from a corner, you'll preserve the ability to be low while still being able to tilt sharply down without seeing the plank.
Here's a film camera on a high-hat:
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