Hi all,
I've been a lurker for a while and frequently use the forums to help with improve my photography and make purchase decisions. For instance, based on what I've read here, and knowing my own preferences and budget, I decided to purchase an RB67 ProSD. It arrived today and it is a thing of beauty. I am so excited to get shooting with it.
I put together the kit from a couple of different sources and it includes the SD body, 50mm C lens, WLF, and a 6x8 back. However, it didn't come with a focusing screen! Choosing a focusing screen is no easy task when I really have no experience with this type of composing, but I purposefully chose a camera with a WLF to give me a break from the world of viewfinders. I am looking for suggestions for the type of focusing screen to buy, and I am sure the type of photography matters. so here is a breakdown of what and how I plan to shoot.
Yes I will:
Shoot landscapes in color (Velvia, Ektar, and Portra VC) and black and white (TMax 400).
Shoot architectural scenes.
Often shoot in low light with very long exposures.
I frequently use filters and grads now (35mm RF and SLR) and anticipate doing so in the future.
Desire to get the maximum sharpness and DoF possible with the 50mm.
No I won't:
Work in a studio.
Shoot portraits of people or animals.
Do macro.
Do candids or street photography.
While I have pretty good knowledge overall of photography, I really am a newbie to the WLF format. For instance, how can a focusing screen for this setup have a rangefinder spot? Is this just a term for a spot that looks like a rangefinder spot?
I'd love to say money is no object, but one of the reasons I chose the RB was because it was one of the least expensive ways to get world class results in 6x7 format. (yes I know I could get a Fuji RF, but I wanted something different to try).
Thanks in advance for the advice
Chris
The plain screen works fine for most types of photography. My personal preference though, is for the horizontal split-image type. Not even the 360mm lens causes it to 'black-out'.
I will shoot a fair amount of architectural stuff, but not for clients and not traditional. More abstract angles and detail shots, so I don't know if a grid would be something I'd like. I think subconsciously I'd be drawn to follow all the compositional "rules" and I hope I'm at the point where I can try to start breaking those rules..
I do like the idea of the matte screen if I'm understanding it will give me a WYSISYG situation. Do you compose and focus wide open, and then stop down for the shutter release? Is the little pop up magnifier in place of a loop?
Chris
I have the Pro-SD body but only the oldest version of the WLF - the magnifier swings up but the top remains open around it - it does not become light tight. I have often wondered if it would be worth getting the newer version of the WLF which does become light tight. Has anyone else switched and found a difference? Or would it perhaps be even better to go with the chimney finder? I assume the chimney finder is not collapsible, so what do you do with the camera when you put it in a bag, in order to protect the ground glass?
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