New Orleans and Chicago - music and arts recommendations?

Hi all,
I'm heading to New Orleans and Chicago for the first time in a few weeks for 5 nights in each city. Appreciate any recommendations on music venues(small/obscure/grungy is good), galleries, interesting places/things to photograph, restaurants etc. Do good record shops still exist? We have tickets for Cubs vs Cardinals in Chicago so have some sports experience covered already! Any suggestions gratefully received. Thanks.
Tony

Don't know Chicago, but New Orleans is more about food than art (food at an art level that is). Eat at ACME Seafood in the French Quarter (get there 10 to 10:30 to beat the crowds), and have a roast beef po boy at Charlie's, also in the Quarter. Beans and rice, and gumbo, are at The Court of Two Sisters. If you want to have an unforgettable jazz brunch, and it won't be cheap, head over to Commanders Palace. Mena's in the Quarter has good food, and the two old time bars there are Johnny White's and Pat O'Briens. Expect a big line at Pat's. Music is EVERYWHERE. Just ck the paper and ask around for who you want to see. Uptown, The Mapel Leaf usually has great music, but really, it's everywhere. Igor's is good for lots of stuff. It's in the circle of the St. Charles street car, right behind the statue of St. Robert E. Lee (facing defiantly north). You can shoot pool, have an Igor Burger, wash your clothes, and talk on the pay phones all at the same time. Snug Harbor usually has great jazz. A lot of the good music starts at midnight or later.

New Orleans doesn't do grunge, it does funky. By all means do all the touristy things like ride the riverboat steamships, have coffee and beignets at the Cafe Du Monde, ride the street cars up to the houses in the Garden District (great breakfasts at The Camellia Grill), ck out the voodoo shops, see the cemeteries, etc.

It is going to be extremely hot down there this time of the year, so night things are recommended.

In Chicago, there's always the downtown bridges (featured in the earlier Batman movies). Foodwise, when in Chicago, I always make it a point to visit Chicago Dogs, though I bet locals may know of better places.

Some random things I recommend in Chicago--

Take the Chicago architecture boat tour--this is a great introduction to the city http://www.architecture.org/rivercruise

The Art Institute currently has excellent Steichen and Koudelka exhibits--not to be missed. Millennium Park and Central Camera are nearby. The Museum of Contemporary Photography (MoCP) is close (and free), but go with an open mind or not at all.

The Gold Coast/Michigan avenue/Water Tower area is nice, and the Museum of Contemporary Art (MCA) is nearby. Have a delicious torta at Xoco.

The major museums are all amazing, but the Museum of Mexican Art is a gem (and free). Bonus points--eat in a nearby Mexican restaurant.

Have some ribs and bbq at Smoque and go for a craft beer at Fountainhead.

Lincoln Park--Stroll around the zoo and conservatory (free!) and have some Korean tacos at Del Seoul.

Chicago Botanic Garden--north of the city in Glencoe--very beautiful and well-maintained. Plus, they serve good food in the cafe.

In New Orleans I would always head I've to Frenchmans street. Lots of great small places to hear music and get a bite to eat. Not a lot of tourists just locals.

Café du Monde is a must-visit in New Orleans. Beignets (pronounced ben-YAYS) are just fried batter with powdered sugar. Think funnel cake, but fluffier like a doughnut. I'm very nutrition conscious, but that all goes out the window when I'm down there. Served with café au lait (equal parts coffee and milk) -- doesn't matter if it's ninety degrees (and it will be), I'm there!

And truly, once you're in this neighborhood (Café du Monde is in Jackson Square) you won't have any trouble finding things to shoot. You're near the river and a just a few blocks from both the Quarter and Canal Street. Last time we were there, I got lucky and we happened upon a traditional second line wedding march going through the Quarter. I got a lot of pictures from that.

There's a place off the beaten path, in Midtown, called Parkway Bakery and Tavern (http://www.parkwaypoorboys.com/). They had excellent Po Boys.

As has been mentioned there's music everywhere. I'm partial to the street musicians and performers. There used to be some impromptu performing every Sunday night on the corner of Canal and Bourbon -- a bunch of guys with their instruments making an infectious racket. Don't know if they still do that.

Only been to Chicago once, this past spring. I met (and photographed) some nice people in Millennium Park. Our hotel was right next to the Jazz Record Mart, but as I was there on business, I never found time to visit. The architecture is amazing -- even more impressive than New York, I think. That's a first time visitor's first impression.

Where are you staying in Chicago?

There are a lot of music venues here, but I am not up to date on that. The Chicago Reader free newspaper has all the info on what is going on: http://www.chicagoreader.com/

Chicago has a great dining scene, but nearer to downtown most of it is on the pricier side. Check out this guide as well as the one in the Reader: http://www.chicagomag.com/Chicago-Magazine/Dining/Dining-Guide/

I also recommend the architectural boat tour noted above. Make reservations ahead of time.

Chicago is a city of neighborhoods, some good, some bad. Do a little research before randomly wandering around. Anything within 2 miles of downtown is safe, however.

I would stick to the city limits as it can take a long time to get to the suburbs and there is plenty for you to do in five days.

Send me a PM if you have any specific questions about getting around, etc.

Chicago and New Orleans - two cities at the opposite ends of Interstate 55 (ok, technically I-55 doesn't go all the way into New Orleans). I've not been to New Orleans, so no idea what to tell you to do there. There's some cool places between the two cities - like Memphis Tennessee, home of Elvis, and St. Louis Missouri, home of the Gateway Arch.

Do check out Millenium Park in Chicago, the bridges in Downtown Chicago, and if you're in the mood for a museum or two, there's the Museum of Science and Industry, the Field Museum, and near the Field Museum there's also Shedd's Aquarium. I would recommend leaving MSI before dark, however, as it's at Lakeshore Drive and 57th - not the best of neighborhoods.

If you're taking public transportation, visit http://www.transitchicago.com/ and get yourself a transit pass. They sell 1-day, 3-day, 7-day, and 30-day passes. A 7-day pass will set you back $28 (since you'll be there 5 days, it'll average out to $5.60/day, unlimited rides on the L and city buses. If I recall correctly, the clock starts running on the transit pass at first use, so you can order it ahead of time instead of waiting until you get there. Oh, and the Field Museum, Shedd's Aquarium, and MSI are all served by the same bus line.

I've had good luck with the buskers on the two red/blue line subway transfer platforms. There's usually someone playing there, especially on weekends and rush hour. For food, I really like Italian Gardens inside the Loop. Here's a YouTube video I did for my last visit back in May:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M3JEY6SiFKA


Kent in SD

Italian Village - head up to the top floor for kitschy fun. Berghoff is an old school place downtown. Greek Islands is fun. Get the flaming saganaki.

The "hip" dining scene changes so quickly, I can't keep pace. Search for places in "River North" and "River West." Those are hot spots.

Wacker Drive is somewhat photogenic. There's North, South, East, and West Wacker drive, plus Upper Wacker and Lower Wacker drive (yeah, it has two levels in spots). There are two streets that have all four cardinal directions in Chicago, and Wacker Drive is one of them. Part of it has three levels, so there's Lower Lower Wacker Drive too. Willis Tower (formerly the Sears Tower, and still commonly referred to as such) is at 233 S. Wacker Drive.

The Sears Tower Skydeck is at floor 103 (there are 108 floors), about 1,350 feet above street level. On a clear day you can see across Lake Michigan into the lower peninsula of Michigan, as well as into Indiana.

Hey, I just got back from New Orleans, and it is crazy hot there. Frenchman street for music was really fun, its just basically bar hopping all night. My favorite spot on frenchman was maison but there are a bunch there that was really fun. Down off of bourbon, next door to Pat Obrians is Prohibition Hall which is an amazing jazz venue, its the only place we went that had a door charge, and a line down the street. Seats are really limited, and it was packed to standing room only in the back, no food or drinks served, just amazing music. The Piano bar in pat obrians was really fun too, and you write your song request on a napkin w/ a tip, and they play if for you, really great fun.

There is a open air art and crafts market on frenchmans st that has lots of local art for sale, its nice to browse through it and chat with vendors. There are also a ton of galleries all around, so its a good idea to walk and wander. have fun!

Hatchetman said:

Where are you staying in Chicago?

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Thanks for the tips. We are staying in The Loop as I understand it's called. Near E Monroe and S Wabash about a block from Millennium Park.

Is a Segway tour any good? That seems to get a few recommendations (from other tourists!)

And thanks for the other responses everyone. Made a few more bookings today...

ME Super said:

There's some cool places between the two cities - like Memphis Tennessee, home of Elvis, and St. Louis Missouri, home of the Gateway Arch.

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We have a retirement plan to spend a few months touring USA by road. I'd like to follow the mystical musical trail from New Orleans to Chicago, from King Oliver to Muddy Waters and all points in between! Maybe in a few more years.

I don't know when you are in Chicago, but the Chicago Jazz Festival is coming up (August 28 to 31) with free concerts in Millennium Park.
The "Loop" is now defined by the Union Loop of CTA elevated tracks ("El"). A good ride for a tourist is to take the Brown Line (board above Wabash Avenue) and take it up to the Western Avenue stop, look around the old Lincoln Square neighborhood, then get back on and ride south and go around the loop back to Wabash.
It's all above ground, so you can see the surrounding areas.
If you miss the Jazz Festival, the Jazz Showcase (just south of downtown--ask your hotel how to get there) is always reliable.
For blues, I recommend Rosa's Lounge on W Armitage, http://rosaslounge.com/index.cfm ,which is best reached by cab.
The Chicago Symphony season downtown starts on Sept. 18.
Chicago is a great theater town--you can get half-price same-day tickets to many interesting shows at "Hot Tix", 72 E Randolph.
In general, the local groups (mostly on the north side) are more interesting than the "shows for people from out of town" touring from New York.

Newt_on_Swings said:

Hey, I just got back from New Orleans, and it is crazy hot there. Frenchman street for music was really fun, its just basically bar hopping all night. My favorite spot on frenchman was maison but there are a bunch there that was really fun. Down off of bourbon, next door to Pat Obrians is Prohibition Hall which is an amazing jazz venue, its the only place we went that had a door charge, and a line down the street. Seats are really limited, and it was packed to standing room only in the back, no food or drinks served, just amazing music. The Piano bar in pat obrians was really fun too, and you write your song request on a napkin w/ a tip, and they play if for you, really great fun.

There is a open air art and crafts market on frenchmans st that has lots of local art for sale, its nice to browse through it and chat with vendors. There are also a ton of galleries all around, so its a good idea to walk and wander. have fun!

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Is that "Prohibition Hall" or "Presentation Hall"?

I woudn't have thought that a "Prohibition Hall" would have gone over well in New Orleans.

Actually, it's "Preservation Hall." lol

Haha oops! Mixed that one up! Thanks for clearing that up!

Good recommendations so far but, as a New Orleanian, I'd like to add a few:

New Orleans Photo Alliance Gallery: http://neworleansphotoalliance.org/grants/CJL_Award/index.php. The Four by Five exhibit will be up. If you can't make it during regular hours, PM me and I'll meet you there.

Ogden Museum of Southern Art: http://www.ogdenmuseum.org/.

Across the street are the WWII Museum and the CAC (Contemporary Art Center)

Julia St. has lots of art galleries. There's a wonderful show of Gordon Parks unpubllshed work at Arthur Roger gallery (http://arthurrogergallery.com/exhibition/gordon-parks/)

In the French Quarter is A Gallery for Fine Photography (http://www.agallery.com/) Your eyes will pop out of your head at the great photos here.

The Historic New Orleans Collection (http://www.hnoc.org/) Wonderful photo exhibit by Richard Sexton.

On Jackson Square, just down the block from Cafe du Monde, is PhotoWorks Gallery. (http://www.photoworksneworleans.com/)

The LA State Museum is worth a look. (http://www.crt.state.la.us/louisiana-state-museum/index)

Just off of Frenchmen St. is Scott Edward's Gallery (http://scottedwardsgallery.com/). Great selection of contemporary photography.

The New Orleans Museum of Art is worth a visit and it sits in City Park which is a beautiful place to relax. There's a Morning Call Coffee Shop in the park as well.

That's just scratching the surface. As for food and drink just stay off of Bourbon St. and you'll be fine unless you go to Galitoire's or Lafitte's Blacksmith Shop. Definitely check out Preservation Hall and any of the venues on Frenchmen. Chickie Wah Wah on Canal St. is awesome: http://www.chickiewahwah.com/; non-smoking, good food, great sound system and good selection of local beers.

Have fun!

thomnola said:

Good recommendations so far but, as a New Orleanian, I'd like to add a few:

New Orleans Photo Alliance Gallery: http://neworleansphotoalliance.org/grants/CJL_Award/index.php. The Four by Five exhibit will be up. If you can't make it during regular hours, PM me and I'll meet you there.

Ogden Museum of Southern Art: http://www.ogdenmuseum.org/.

Across the street are the WWII Museum and the CAC (Contemporary Art Center)

Julia St. has lots of art galleries. There's a wonderful show of Gordon Parks unpubllshed work at Arthur Roger gallery (http://arthurrogergallery.com/exhibition/gordon-parks/)

In the French Quarter is A Gallery for Fine Photography (http://www.agallery.com/) Your eyes will pop out of your head at the great photos here.

The Historic New Orleans Collection (http://www.hnoc.org/) Wonderful photo exhibit by Richard Sexton.

On Jackson Square, just down the block from Cafe du Monde, is PhotoWorks Gallery. (http://www.photoworksneworleans.com/)

The LA State Museum is worth a look. (http://www.crt.state.la.us/louisiana-state-museum/index)

Just off of Frenchmen St. is Scott Edward's Gallery (http://scottedwardsgallery.com/). Great selection of contemporary photography.

The New Orleans Museum of Art is worth a visit and it sits in City Park which is a beautiful place to relax. There's a Morning Call Coffee Shop in the park as well.

That's just scratching the surface. As for food and drink just stay off of Bourbon St. and you'll be fine unless you go to Galitoire's or Lafitte's Blacksmith Shop. Definitely check out Preservation Hall and any of the venues on Frenchmen. Chickie Wah Wah on Canal St. is awesome: http://www.chickiewahwah.com/; non-smoking, good food, great sound system and good selection of local beers.

Have fun!

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A great list, thank you!

Oh, and do yourself a favor; eat at Irene's in the French Quarter.

ME Super said:

Do check out Millenium Park in Chicago, the bridges in Downtown Chicago, and if you're in the mood for a museum or two, there's the Museum of Science and Industry, the Field Museum, and near the Field Museum there's also Shedd's Aquarium. I would recommend leaving MSI before dark, however, as it's at Lakeshore Drive and 57th - not the best of neighborhoods.

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The Museum of Science and Industry is in Hyde Park, one of the south side's better neighborhoods and is not known as a high crime area at all. I would not worry at all there, of course standard safety precautions (useful in ANY area) should be kept in mind.

Tony Egan said:

Thanks for the tips. We are staying in The Loop as I understand it's called. Near E Monroe and S Wabash about a block from Millennium Park.

Is a Segway tour any good? That seems to get a few recommendations (from other tourists!)

And thanks for the other responses everyone. Made a few more bookings today...

Click to expand...

If you want to see Wrigley Field, hop on the subway over on State street, not far from your hotel. Go north and after 30 mins or so you'll hit Addison ave, where the ball park is located. Great walking neighborhood. Clark Street, Halsted, and Broadway are all great walking streets. Tons of bars, food, and shops.

RattyMouse said:

The Museum of Science and Industry is in Hyde Park, one of the south side's better neighborhoods and is not known as a high crime area at all. I would not worry at all there, of course standard safety precautions (useful in ANY area) should be kept in mind.

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Good to know. I know years ago that was not the case, but I haven't been to MSI since the early 2000's. You also gotta realize, I live in a small town in the central part of Illinois, where a "crime wave" is people relocating various items from other people's yards to a pile of other like items in the middle of an intersection in the main part of town on Halloween night, and "decorating" trees with toilet paper.

Also don't get the water up your nose! It's contaminated right now.
http://wgno.com/2014/08/28/st-john-parish-drinking-water-tests-positive-for-brain-eating-amoeba/