New one-shot, two bath fixing method - comments?

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oldche

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I wrote a short description of a one-shot, two-bath fixing method for b&w film that I developed. I call it "1-2-Fix." The description is in this shared directory. I would appreciate any comments you may have on the approach, or on the way I described it.

It is based on using a much more dilute strength of rapid fixer than the traditional 1+4 dilution for film, and processing at longer times. Two baths are used, the first much more dilute than the second. The first is discarded after each roll, and the second is replenished from concentrate and retained. To make the first bath for the subsequent roll, you dilute some of the retained second bath, then makeup the second bath from concentrate. This continuously "flushes" and replenishes the second bath, so it is always like fresh fixer. Capacity in rolls per 1L of concentrate is nearly the same as the traditional method, but since it is one-shot each roll is fixed uniformly, and no clip tests needed.

For cubic grain films (like Tri-x, HP5), bath F1 is 1+29 dilution, 7 minutes, and bath F2 is 1+9 dilution 3 minutes, for 10 minutes total. Usage of concentrate per roll is 10 ml (300 ml tank), so you get 100 rolls capacity per 1L concentrate.

For tabular grain films, (Delta or TMAX), bath F1 is 1+19 dilution, 10 minutes, and F2 (still 1+9) is 5 minutes, for 15 minutes total. Concentrate usage is 15 ml/roll, or 67 rolls per 1L of concentrate.

The used F1 bath is discarded after each roll, and the F2 bath is retained for next time. Total fixing time is >3X clearing time in all cases.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/10r6jWmzFcsXlgu5-PNeSU39tWMJqhU6z?usp=sharing

Thanks - Richard.
 

Donald Qualls

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What advantage(s) does this have over the old two-bath fixing, where you use regular film strength fixer (i.e. 1+4 from concentrate, or more often mixed at 240 g/L from sodium thiosulfate crystals plus some sodium sulfite), give half the fixing time (fixing time = 2x clearing time) in Bath 1, the rest in Bath 2, then every so many films, discard Bath 1 and replace it with Bath 2, and use fresh fixer for the new Bath 2?
 

Paul Howell

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I don't see the point for a 2 bath system for film, 2 bath is recommended for paper, I use a 2 bath for FB but single bath for RC.
 

Donald Qualls

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I've seen (and used) 2-bath fixing for film, in order to fully fix tabular grain in a plain hypo or hypo+sulfite (i.e. non-rapid) fixer. What I'm questioning is the advantage of the above cited (relatively complicated, with different dilutions and replenishment) over a simple two-bath fixing setup with plain fixer.
 

pentaxuser

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OP. I haven't done the maths but how much does your method save in fixer volumes compared to the normal one bath at 1+4 which does 24 films according to Ilford and has the added advantage of being less complex and taking less time at the fixer stage.

The maths as I see it are this in my case: I use 50ml of stock fixer to make up 250ml of working solution and I believe I can get at least 4 films worth of fixing from this. In a litre of concentrate there are 20 x 50ml of stock which is 80 films. So I cannot see your method being viable for me and it is more complex and takes longer. Even at 3 films per 50ml of stock it is only close to break-even

Your method may be attractive to some users which is fine so worth offering it. Good luck

pentaxuser
 
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Richard,

I don't want to be a wet blanket here, since your method may have merit. However, the testing you do seems inadequate, to me at least, to authoritatively indicate that, 1) complete fixation is occurring (i.e., residual silver levels in the film after fixation) and 2) that fixing bath 2 really stays at a very low level of dissolved silver (e.g., under approx. 5 g/l) after a long period of replenishment (i.e., testing dissolved silver levels in bath 2 over a long period of time).

There are a couple of concerns I would have regarding the very dilute-long fixing time approach.

Just so you know, I did a bit of exploration into the possibilities of using more dilute fixer some years ago, corresponding with the Ilford tech rep at the time and PE (Ron Mowrey), among others. The upshot of the whole exploration was that, indeed, more dilute fixer works as long as fixing times are adjusted accordingly to a certain point. After too much dilution, the ionic pressure (or something like that; I'm remembering here, not looking things up) becomes too low for the thiosulfate ions to react adequately with the silver compounds in the media (film/paper) and fixation is not able to proceed through the various steps needed to result in soluble compounds. Maybe your second bath, which is stronger, will do the job, but then the dissolved silver load on fix 2 would be correspondingly higher, meaning that fix 2 would not be as long-lived as you may like. To test whether your fix 2 actually stays at a very low level of dissolved silver over long periods would require periodic testing and process control like those used in automated systems that utilize fixer replenishment. I believe that there are process control strips for precisely this purpose, which you should maybe acquire and use.

Or, the result of the whole process may result in insoluble compounds remaining in the film, i.e., inadequate fixation, due to the fixer's inability to completely convert all the silver compounds into soluble thiosulfates. This latter you can test by testing for residual silver in the film. The Kodak ST-1 test (or the alternative test with KRST 1+9) can give you a visual indication about the relative amounts of residual silver in film, but not any kind of strict quantification. Still, it would be good to check, since "clearing" in and of itself does not guarantee the absence of invisible, but insoluble, silver thiosulfates. A better test with more quantifiable results would be superior, but likely only possible at a well equipped testing lab.

Maybe the chemists here on the forum can contribute some testing suggestions and point out other possible foibles, which I have certainly overlooked, as well.

A final concern is the relatively long fixing times with your method. I use two-bath fixing for film, and dilutions up to 1+9 (with Ilford Hypam or Rapid Fixer) and fix for 6 minutes total (longer than 2x the clearing time), which is a lot longer than needed with "standard" fixation practices. That six minutes is rather too long anyway. Your method requires 10 minutes, and, even for me, crosses the patience vs. economy border by quite a bit.

FWIW, I use my fix "one batch" and try to mix only enough for two separate baths at 1+9 when I have only a small amount of film to process. When I have lots, I go with the 1+4 dilution and two-bath fixation, replacing the first bath with the second after capacity has been reached. Fixing lots of film this way is quite economical and ensures adequate fixation with a shorter fixing time than you use and without the extra prep time that your method inevitably requires. Plus, there is no need for storage; solutions are discarded after the batch has been processed.

Best,

Doremus
 

NB23

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This is very funny :D

You can fix 24 films with 1 Liter of 1:4 fixer, within a 1 month period.

How much more economical can it possibly be?
 
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oldche

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What advantage(s) does this have over the old two-bath fixing, where you use regular film strength fixer (i.e. 1+4 from concentrate, or more often mixed at 240 g/L from sodium thiosulfate crystals plus some sodium sulfite), give half the fixing time (fixing time = 2x clearing time) in Bath 1, the rest in Bath 2, then every so many films, discard Bath 1 and replace it with Bath 2, and use fresh fixer for the new Bath 2?
Thanks for your question. For me, the advantages are: 1- This is closer to a one-shot approach. As I do not process on a regular basis, I like doing one-shot so that I am not storing working solutions, which may go bad in between sessions. I do one-shot developing (with HC-110 or my own PC Glycol formula), one-shot acid stop bath, and of course prewash and postwash are all one-shot. This is not entirely a one-shot fixer, since I had to use the second bath to make the approach work without wasting fixer concentrate. 2- The traditional two bath fixing is a good idea. I always did prints this way 50 years ago when I first started darkroom work. This method would have similar advantages. However, with traditional two bath fixing you need to monitor your total usage, to know when to dump Fix 1 and advance Fix 2, then start using a new Fix 2. I didn't want to do the monitoring (either tracking rolls or doing clip tests). This method in essence is continually "advancing" Fix 2 to becoming Fix 1, and preparing a new Fix 2, but only in small amounts for each roll. Being a chemical engineer, I know that doing this process as a "continuous countercurrent flow" process rather than the sequential batch solution changes of the traditional two-bath approach will be more efficient and consistent in the reaction chemistry. Thanks - Richard.
 
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oldche

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I don't see the point for a 2 bath system for film, 2 bath is recommended for paper, I use a 2 bath for FB but single bath for RC.
Thanks for your comment. The advantages of two-bath fixation are well known, I won't go into it in detail, and since you already use it you must realize what they are. The advantages may be more pronounced for some media vs. others, and it is more practiced for paper than for film. But, the same advantages apply to film as well. If you research into the literature on fixation, you will often see the recommendation made to use two-bath fixation for film, especially when reliable archival results are desired. Thanks - Richard.
 
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oldche

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I've seen (and used) 2-bath fixing for film, in order to fully fix tabular grain in a plain hypo or hypo+sulfite (i.e. non-rapid) fixer. What I'm questioning is the advantage of the above cited (relatively complicated, with different dilutions and replenishment) over a simple two-bath fixing setup with plain fixer.
Thanks again for your comment. This method may at first seem complicated, but I maintain that it is not. Some of that perception is perhaps my way of describing it. I just decide what film type of I have (traditional or tabular grain), mix F1 using a fixed volume of F2 with water, return my F2 to full volume with a standard dilution of rapid fixer concentrate, and develop for fixed times in F1 and F2. I do the same thing for every roll. I'm used to doing similar mixing for every roll with my developer and stop bath. In traditional two-bath fixing technique, using the oft suggested clearing time monitoring of exhaustion, I would have to do a clip test to measure clearing time, and then fix for a time depending on my clearing time. Or, I could fix for a set constant time for every roll, but I'd still need to either keep track of number of rolls or do regular clip tests to avoid being surprised by an "unexpected" fixer failure. My method involves measuring and mixing for every roll, so you might consider that complicated, but I'm doing the same thing each time so it becomes very routine. And I don't need to do any "monitoring" of the condition of my baths. Just consider this - if you are tracking or measuring your bath exhaustion from one roll to the next, that means that your film is sometimes being processed in nearly exhausted chemicals, and sometimes in fresh active chemicals. That is a complication that I'd rather avoid by spending a little more time measuring and mixing. Thanks - Richard.
 
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oldche

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OP. I haven't done the maths but how much does your method save in fixer volumes compared to the normal one bath at 1+4 which does 24 films according to Ilford and has the added advantage of being less complex and taking less time at the fixer stage.

The maths as I see it are this in my case: I use 50ml of stock fixer to make up 250ml of working solution and I believe I can get at least 4 films worth of fixing from this. In a litre of concentrate there are 20 x 50ml of stock which is 80 films. So I cannot see your method being viable for me and it is more complex and takes longer. Even at 3 films per 50ml of stock it is only close to break-even

Your method may be attractive to some users which is fine so worth offering it. Good luck

pentaxuser
Thanks for your comments. I didn't adopt this method primarily for economy, but I did design the method to not waste fixer concentrate needlessly. I mean, you can do a one-shot fixing system simply by mixing 1+4 dilution fresh each time and chucking it after each roll, but that would be wasteful. (Though when I started developing in the late '60s, I always mixed fresh fixer for every roll of film. Then, after processing the film, I poured the used fixer into the "Paper Fixer" jar and used it to develop prints. So, in a sense, this was an economical one-shot fixing method for film!) However, the method is similar in the economy of using fixer concentrate to the standard Ilford capacity recommendations. For example, the method uses 10 ml of Ilford Rapid Fixer concentrate per 35mm roll (36 exp.). In the "maths" you gave above, you said you use 50 ml of concentrate per 4 rolls, or 50/4 = 12.5 ml of concentrate per roll. So, you are getting less capacity out of your fixer than my method. You indicated that you would expect a capacity of 80 rolls of film from a 1L bottle of concentrate. For cubic grain emulsions, I would expect 1000/10 = 100 rolls capacity with this method. So, I am getting similar capacity. The capacity is less for tabular grain films, but it is similarly less for any fixing method, that is a characteristic of the tabular emulsions and how they fix, not a characteristic of the method. Finally, you note it is more complex and takes longer. Yes, it may seem more complicated, but some of that complication (measuring and mixing for each roll) is one I was willing to accept for the benefits of consistent processing and one-shot use, as I described above. Not everyone will see value in that, I understand. Similarly for taking longer - I realized that I would need to make a trade off in process time if I were to do one-shot, since more dilute solutions will take longer to fix. I arbitrarily set an upper limit of 10-15 minutes for the fixing time, and chose my concentrations appropriately to stay at that time or below. I often spend 10-15 minutes doing development, and felt that was a reasonable upper time to allow for fixing. Rapid fixers are often 5 minutes or less (though perhaps a bit longer for 3X clearing time when they are nearing exhaustion), and the old hypo was in the 10-15 minute range. Again, I was willing to accept the slightly longer processing time in order to get the desired one-shot technique and consistent results roll to roll. Thanks - Richard.
 
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oldche

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This is very funny :D

You can fix 24 films with 1 Liter of 1:4 fixer, within a 1 month period.

How much more economical can it possibly be?
Thanks for your comment. As noted above, economy was not my main motivation. However, yes, the Ilford recommended capacity is 24 rolls for 1L of 1+4 working solution. In that 1L of 1+4 solution is 1000 x (1/5) = 200 ml of concentrate, so this is 200/24 = 8.33 ml of concentrate per roll. This is a little less than the 10 ml of concentrate my method uses per roll. (This is assuming traditional cubic grain emulsion, not tabular. Ilford 1+4 would not get 24 rolls of tabular fixed in 1L of 1+4 solution either.) Now, I can use a modified version of my method to also use 8.33 ml of concentrate per roll, but this would mean a more dilute first fixing bath than the 1+29 dilution I am presently using, and consequently longer fixing time for F1. To achieve 8.33 ml usage per roll, I'd have to use a F1 dilution of 1+35. The estimated clearing time of HP5 at 1+35 dilution is 9.6 minutes (clearing time varies with concentration to the 1.67 power at these dilution ranges), and to allow for a 1.3X clearing time in F1 this would require a fixing time of 12.4 minutes. This was over the 10 minute arbitrary constraint that I set for myself. I also had several other concerns about going to the 1+35 dilution to match the Ilford standard capacity. First, I tested clearing times up to 1+29 dilution, but not 1+35, so I am hesitant to recommend a method only by extrapolating from my time vs. concentration model. Second, I'd rather set the method to use a little more fixer than the Ilford standard recommendation, as a safety factor, since I am departing from common practice and experience. Third, 1+35 is very dilute (less than 14% of the active concentration of ammonium thiosulfate compared with the standard 1+4 dilution), and as Mr. Scudder kindly points out above, at some very low concentration of fixer you will fail to fully complex the silver salts, and this will reduce the effectiveness of removal of the salts from the emulsion both during the fixing steps and later in the water wash. I don't know at what concentration that occurs. My method does have the "insurance policy" of having a fairly concentrated 1+9 second fixer to provide this full complexation. However, I didn't want to "push it" so to speak by going too low in Fixer #1. Fourth, I found it easy to measure 10 ml per roll, and didn't see the advantage in economy of measuring 8.3 ml per roll worthwhile vs. measuring the nice round quantity of 10 ml/roll. One final point - you mentioned doing 24 films in 1 L of working solution in a 1 month period. That is an important point. One of the main drivers of my desire for a one-shot fixer method was the fact that I don't process regularly. It would take me many months to process 24 rolls. A 1 L working solution of fixer (even a 500 ml working solution) would probably oxidize and go bad before I reached capacity. I really wanted a method that would mix fresh solution from IRF concentrate for each roll processed. Even the concentrate can go bad with storage, and I am careful to store it in a sequence of bottles of various sizes so that nearly all of it is always in a full closed bottle, except for a small volume bottle that is in use. I had to compromise my desire for a totally one-shot approach by adopting the F2 bath at 1+9 dilution that I retain between sessions. However, as I "flush" that bottle 1/3 or 1/2 of it's volume with each roll, and add back freshly made 1+9 to return it to full volume, I feel this should prevent that working solution from going bad. Time will tell. Thanks - Richard.
 
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oldche

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Mr. Scudder - thank you very much for your comments. I have read many of your posts over the years, and appreciate your expertise. I'm going to treat your points at length, if you don't mind. These are all points that I have considered, so I have something to say on each, but I did not want to include them in my "short description" document as it would no longer have been "short." Most practitioners would not have the chemical background necessary for the discussion of these points, nor even if they did an interest in discussing them.

the testing you do seems inadequate, to me at least, to authoritatively indicate that, 1) complete fixation is occurring (i.e., residual silver levels in the film after fixation)
Yes, I agree, I need to do more testing to confirm some things I believe to be true, but have not verified. My testing thus far has been to measure clearing times vs. concentration, and also I did some exhaustion tests, again measuring clearing time at high dilutions, but where I used repeated sections of film in the same solution until I achieved the same ratio of film to solution as you would see for a full roll of 36 exp. 35mm or 12 exp. of 120 film in the same volume. I have not yet done residual silver tests on the fixed film to confirm that the undeveloped silver salts have been removed to desirable low levels, but I agree that should be done. I wanted to leave that as a final step in development, before buying the reagents. I have the formula for Kodak Residual Test Solution ST-1 in my copy of Publication J-1. I was thinking of using that, instead of the selenium toner variant, since I have no need of selenium toner and selenium is a bit more hazardous to handle and dispose of than sodium sulfide. If you have any advice on ST-1 vs. the selenium toner technique, please let me know.

that fixing bath 2 really stays at a very low level of dissolved silver (e.g., under approx. 5 g/l) after a long period of replenishment (i.e., testing dissolved silver levels in bath 2 over a long period of time).
I agree that testing residual silver in bath F2 after repeated cycles would be a good confirmation that I'm not getting build up of too much soluble silver. I could do that with a hypo-check solution, and do plan to do so. However, I've done some estimates that indicate build of of soluble silver to significant levels would be very unlikely. Here is my logic, I would appreciate your comments. One roll of 36 exp. 35mm film, or 12exp 120, is about 80 in2 of film. Per information I've found from multiple sources (including past comments of PE on forums), regular b&w negative film may have 3-5 grams of silver per m2 of film. Let's take 4 g/m2 as representative. For an 80 in2 roll, this is 0.21 g of silver. Let's assume on average 50% of the silver forms the image (reduced to metallic silver in the developer), so that 50% is undeveloped and needs to be removed by the fixer (I've also seen multiple sources with this estimate). This means about 0.10 grams of silver will be dissolved out of the emulsion by the fixer, per roll. I further assume at least 90% of the silver is removed by the fixer at 1.0X clearing time (again, I have references for this in the literature; actually the value is usually higher than 90%). This leaves 10% unreacted, to be removed in my second fixer bath F2. So, for every roll that enters F2, it brings 10% x 0.10 g/roll = 0.01 grams of silver that becomes soluble silver in F2. Let's further say that I am using a 500 ml working volume of F2, so that for every roll of HP5 I process I take 100 ml of the 500 ml (1/5 or 20%) out of the F2 bottle at the beginning of processing and use that 100 ml to prepare my dilute F1 solution. This "flush" of F2 removes 20% of the soluble silver content of F2. I now return F2 to the full 500ml with fresh 1+9 solution (which contains no silver). After this first "flush" I have remaining in the bottle of F2 80% x 0.01g or 0.008 grams Ag. Then, the second roll brings in another 0.01 grams of silver, combined with the 0.008 grams from the first roll leaves 0.018 g Ag. You can do some algebra to show (or do a simple spreadsheet and copy 20 lines or so to see the convergence) that this repeated process will converge to a constant value, and F2 will never contain more than 5X the amount of silver brought into it by one roll of film (again, assuming bottle volume of 500 ml and removal of 100 ml per roll to make up F1). In other words, because of the regular "flush" and replenishment that I have designed into the method, you can never have more than 0.05 grams of silver in the 500 ml volume of F2, when 100 ml is removed and replenished for each roll. On a concentration per liter basis, (since my bottle is 500 ml or 0.5L) there can never be greater than 0.1 gram of silver per L of solution in F2, which is quite a low value. Now to examine the silver content of the first bath, F1. The estimate of the silver content in F1 is 0.1 g/L x (100/1000) = 0.01 g Ag in 300 ml, or 0.033 g/L to begin, before the roll is processed (if using a 300 ml tank), and 0.033 g/L + 0.10 g/roll x (1000/300) = 0.37 g/L of Ag in F1 when it is discarded. Compare these silver levels to the 8-10 g/L Ag level that can be tolerated "without serious effect" on fixation that has been reported in the literature, or the 5 g/L you cited, or the 1-2 g/L that has been suggested as a very low maximum silver content in the fixer to assure archival fixation. If my assumptions and math are valid (and I welcome your critique), it seems to me that it is very likely that F2 can be relied upon to achieve archival quality fixation, no matter how many cycles I go through. However, as you suggested, it would be advisable to confirm these estimates with tests of residual silver levels in both F2 and in the film itself.

Incidentally, I also calculated the stoichiometric requirements of ammonium thiosulfate in the solutions given the amount of silver that needs to be complexed, and found that in the dilutions I am using I still have a good margin above the stoichiometric requirement in F1 when it is discarded. This is tentative, since there is no simple formula given the complex chemistry and multiple complexes that can be formed, but I used one proposed formula. While this is of course necessary, it is not sufficient, due to the "ionic pressure" point you mentioned, which means you need a quantity in excess of stoichiometric to drive the formation of the desired complexes.

more dilute fixer works as long as fixing times are adjusted accordingly to a certain point. After too much dilution, the ionic pressure (or something like that; I'm remembering here, not looking things up) becomes too low for the thiosulfate ions to react adequately with the silver compounds in the media (film/paper) and fixation is not able to proceed through the various steps needed to result in soluble compounds. Maybe your second bath, which is stronger, will do the job
Yes, I've read some of the literature on this point. I mentioned this explicitly in the document I asked you all to read. This is a major reason that I decided to use the second fixer bath at a substantial concentration of 1+9. While 1+9 is only half the concentration of the 1+4 recommended by Ilford for film, I know some people (such as yourself) have routinely used 1+9, and sometimes a bit more dilute, fixer baths for film and paper with apparently good success. I believe the term you were looking for here is ionic strength, but pressure is a good analogous term. A minimum level of ion concentration is needed to form substantial concentrations of certain complexes, and if you go too dilute the concentration of those complexes will be too low. If you don't form the desired complexes, the silver doesn't wash out of the emulsion to the desired degree. It is my supposition that 1+9 is sufficient to form the silver thiosulfate complexes that are highly soluble and so easily removed into the fixer or during the wash step. I don't know this for certain, but since 1+9 is recommended for paper I feel it is a reasonable assumption, pending confirmation as you suggested by measuring residual silver in the film after washing. Alternatively, if it proves that 1+9 was not sufficient for good complex formation, I could go to using 1+4 as F2. Since F2 will be nearly like fresh fixer for every roll, 3:00-5:00 minutes in 1+4 F2 would actually give complete fixation in of itself (i.e., 3-5 minutes in fresh 1+4 fixer is what Ilford recommends for a single bath fixer), so I thought this a bit extreme, though obviously it would work. Using 1+4 F2 would mean i would be flushing only 50 ml out of that bottle per roll (to make 300 ml of F1), which is 1/10 flush, so my residual silver levels could rise to 10X the amount carried in by one roll, or 10 x 0.01 = 0.1 grams in the 500 ml bottle, which is 0.2 g/L. Still a rather low value, should not be a concern to insure archival processing. However, I was more comfortable using the 1+9 dilution for the higher volume of "flush" that it implies.

Maybe the chemists here on the forum can contribute some testing suggestions and point out other possible foibles, which I have certainly overlooked, as well.
I am not a chemist, but I am a chemical engineer (BSE Princeton, MSChE MIT) with over 40 years experience in doing chemical research, and even longer (50 years) doing darkroom work. I've had several years of academic training in chemistry, however, I am not a photographic chemist, so I may be making some errors and would be glad to hear anyone's suggestions. Thank your very much for your excellent comments, and I look forward to further comments from you, and from others here as well. - Richard.
 
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economy was not my main motivation
I only skimmed the thread and may have missed something. What is the reason for the 2 bath? More complete fixation, quicker fixing, simplicity?
 
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Richard,

Thanks for the long reply. It seems to me that you have done lots of research and have a better grasp of the possible issues with your method than I do. Nevertheless, despite all your postulating and figuring and calculating stochastically, which are great, you need to test to be sure. There is always the possibility that unknown variables or emergent phenomena that will throw a wrench in the works. Testing the end result will tell the tale.

A couple of thoughts on that:

First, hypo-check isn't/won't be nearly sensitive enough to give you reliable and precise results. Go for the process-control strips or some other test that can give you both a sensitivity greater than you need and a more precise measure of just what the dissolved silver content of your fixer is. As a chemical engineer, I'm sure you appreciate this. I sourced strips some years ago and they seemed readily available and not all that expensive.

As for ST-1: the sulfide test is good, just not quantitative. Still, if you get zero staining on your film, you can be reasonably certain that residual silver in the film is at low enough levels. The problem would be if you got some, but not a lot, of stain. Knowing where you lie in the margin of acceptability would be difficult to determine. There are other tests (titrating?) that can be done that are better. However, the ST-1 is an easy test, so why not just do it first and see if further, more precise testing is really needed. BTW, the selenium toner test for residual silver is about as good but certainly not better than the ST-1. I (and others) use it because we have toner on hand, which never goes bad (ST-1 needs to be mixed fairly freshly) and it is simply more convenient.

Finally, do remember that fixer goes bad due to oxidation too. At some point, especially with a working solution (even replenished) and depending on storage conditions, oxidation will catch up with you and kill the fix. Maybe you want to work a number of iterations limit into your method, i.e., a point at which both baths would need to be mixed fresh (similar to what Kodak recommends with the two-bath fixing regime; replace both baths after five cycles).

And there's still the pesky "economy vs. convenience" factor: Is it really worth a few pennies to go to the extra trouble. While you, obviously, think there is an advantage, it may be a hard sell getting others, especially beginners and those not so chemically adept, to adopt this method, even after you've confirmed its efficacy with testing, simply because it's a bit fiddly, takes longer, and the savings factor is not that great. I'm pretty confident that my two-bath, per batch film-fixing workflow is not only efficient (yep, I test), but really economical too. And, it's 40% faster than your one-shot method.

Still, it's an interesting and enlightening endeavor. Do keep us posted.

Best,

Doremus
 
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Thanks again for your comments.
I sourced strips some years ago and they seemed readily available and not all that expensive.
Do you have a product name? I've never seen these test strips listed anywhere for purchase, I'm not sure what I'm looking for.

Finally, do remember that fixer goes bad due to oxidation too. At some point, especially with a working solution (even replenished) and depending on storage conditions, oxidation will catch up with you and kill the fix.
Yes, I know. I think I did have a jar of working solution go bad once, as well as an original concentrate container with about 25% of the concentrate left. This could be an issue. At the end of every processing session, I top off the F2 jar to the brim before capping. We'll see if this is sufficient. One good thing about the solution going bad from oxidation (as opposed to going bad from exhaustion) is that I believe I'll be able to tell by smell and observation (cloudiness or sulfur precipitate) when it may be oxidized. If it doesn't smell like I expect fresh fixer to smell, I chuck it. On the 5L Hypam that I'm currently working through, I broke the 5L down into a few 1L bottles, a 500 ml bottle, and a few smaller bottles, all completely full except for one small bottle that is my working bottle of concentrate. When all of the small bottles are empty, I refill them all to the brim from the next larger bottle up. When all small bottles and the medium bottles are all empty, I refill all from one of the full 1L bottles. By going in this manner, nearly all the stock is in completely full bottles except for the small working volume. This minimizes potential for oxidation. I do the same procedure with my HC-110 stock. Of course this oxidation issue is present for any fixing technique, it has nothing specifically to do with my method. But your point is well taken on the longevity of the F2 bottle.

And there's still the pesky "economy vs. convenience" factor: Is it really worth a few pennies to go to the extra trouble.
It seems everyone in this thread is still misunderstanding my motivation, and what I am claiming, even you. This method provides no advantage in economy over the traditional (one or two bath) methods of fixing. I never said it did, and that is not why I wanted to develop it. I think I keep pointing that out (see above several statements to this effect), but I guess my communication skills are inadequate. I am doing this specifically because I wanted a "one-shot" type of approach for fixation, to go along with my one-shot approaches on all of the other steps (developing, etc.). Every time I process film, I have to carry all my bottles up from the basement to my kitchen, clean off the counter, and set everything up. I want to mix things up from small bottles of concentrate every session, rather than carrying around a bunch of dilute working solutions every time. I also process infrequently, so I don't want to worry that a bottle of working solution went bad since I last processed 30 or 60 days ago. With one-shot I just deal with a few bottles of concentrate, and mix everything fresh for that session. The fact that I do store the one bottle of F2 working solution is a compromise to this approach, but one I felt I had to make in order to have an effective system that works in a reasonable time (and for me, 10-15 minutes to fix vs. your "40% faster" 6 minutes total is not significant.) You object to the "fiddly" nature of mixing fresh solutions each time and spending 10-15 minutes instead of 6. I object to the "fiddly" nature of doing clip tests or checking off numbers of rolls process per bottle of working solution. To each his own I guess. To me, this is no more fiddly than figuring out time, temperature, and dilution for HC-110 for each roll, and then mixing that developer with a syringe to measure out 6.3ml of concentrate for my 300 ml tank, checking the temperature, correcting the time, and then going at it. I could just mix a single re-usable bottle of D76, that would be much simpler. But I don't do that, as I don't want the developer going bad in the 4 weeks since I last developed, and don't want to be doing clip tests to see if the developer is still good. The fixer situation is not much different. It doesn't give me any benefit for people to adopt this method, but it does give me some pleasure to explain it to those who might have similar interests in one-shot processing to my own, and if they try it I hope they let me know what they think. If no one else thinks there is any value in it, that's fine, I'll continue to do it anyway. The critique and suggestions are valuable to me, though, to see if there are areas in which it makes sense to improve, or to further scrutinize the results, that is another reason I am sharing it with a group like this. Thanks for your comments. If I develop some further data, I'll share it with the group. - Richard.
 
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oldche

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I only skimmed the thread and may have missed something. What is the reason for the 2 bath? More complete fixation, quicker fixing, simplicity?
You may readily find information on the web (and in this forum) if you search for "two bath fixation" that explains the advantages in general. In fact, the Ilford instructions for their rapid fixer explain this as well, so I won't repeat it here. If you have trouble finding the information, let me know and I'll find a few links to post for you. In this particular process, I needed to use two baths to insure complete fixation, as I only fix to a little over 1X clearing time in the very dilute first bath, and that is insufficient to fully complex the silver salts for complete removal. I explained this in some detail in the above posts. Thanks for your question.
 

pentaxuser

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oldche, all I can say is that I think I understood your motivation which became even clearer when you continued to take the trouble you to correspond with each of us in a very comprehensive manner. I don't think you ever had any selling motive in this. You were sharing with us a different approach to fixing which you were offering to us as part of a free exchange of knowledge.

It has been a great example of how a forum interchange should proceed.

Thanks

pentaxuser
 

ic-racer

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You may readily find information on the web (and in this forum) if you search for "two bath fixation" that explains the advantages in general. In fact, the Ilford instructions for their rapid fixer explain this as well, so I won't repeat it here. If you have trouble finding the information, let me know and I'll find a few links to post for you. In this particular process, I needed to use two baths to insure complete fixation, as I only fix to a little over 1X clearing time in the very dilute first bath, and that is insufficient to fully complex the silver salts for complete removal. I explained this in some detail in the above posts. Thanks for your question.

Ilford only indicates the two bath method is "efficient." So, I was wondering what that means from someone using the technique; more complete fixation, quicker fixing, simplicity or something else?
So it seems like complete fixation with minimal fixer. Out of curiosity, when re-reading the Ilford document I noticed the section on fixer replenishment. I have never tried that (though I used to use two-bath print fixing many years ago).
I wonder if you tried the replenishment? Seems like a very similar thing to two-bath, in that the second bath is getting replenished continuously from the fresh fixer bath.

Two bath fixing
An extremely efficient method of fixing film or paper is to use the two bath fixing technique.
https://assets.website-files.com/5ba2689b2e7121210bfa9af3/5c0ecc53472033a2b1b17efb_tech specs ilford rapid fixer.pdf
 
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oldche

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oldche, all I can say is that I think I understood your motivation which became even clearer when you continued to take the trouble you to correspond with each of us in a very comprehensive manner. I don't think you ever had any selling motive in this. You were sharing with us a different approach to fixing which you were offering to us as part of a free exchange of knowledge.

It has been a great example of how a forum interchange should proceed.

Thanks

pentaxuser
That is very nice of you, thank you very much. Yes, I agree, that is how a forum should work. Sometimes it doesn't, but I just skip over those parts when I come to them. I've learned an awful lot over the years reading in forums such as this one, so I appreciate all comments. Thanks!
 
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oldche

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Ilford only indicates the two bath method is "efficient." So, I was wondering what that means from someone using the technique; more complete fixation, quicker fixing, simplicity or something else?
So it seems like complete fixation with minimal fixer. Out of curiosity, when re-reading the Ilford document I noticed the section on fixer replenishment. I have never tried that (though I used to use two-bath print fixing many years ago).
I wonder if you tried the replenishment? Seems like a very similar thing to two-bath, in that the second bath is getting replenished continuously from the fresh fixer bath.

Today at lunch I didn't have time to sort through my many bookmarks for the best one on two-bath fixing. However, I just found it for you - see below.

To address your second point - I've never noticed the section on fixer replenishment, I'll have to take a look at that. Perhaps I did see it and thought it mostly applied to commercial labs, where they typically replenish a bath that is continually working. I've never really done replenishment on my developers, I prefer instead a one-shot approach (as you've now heard me say several times - sorry!) However, you can consider the 1-2-Fix method to be essentially a replenished fixer system, since I replenish the F2 bath with fresh fixer with every roll I process. For example, while I'm mixing up the solutions to do a roll of 35mm Tri-X, I'll remove 100 ml from the F2 bottle and dilute that to make 300 ml of bath F1. Then, I'll take 10 ml of fixer concentrate, mix that with 90 ml water (to make 100 ml at 1+9), and add that back to the F2 bottle to bring it back to full volume. Then I'll process the roll, and at the end I dump the used F1 and pour the used F2 back into the bottle for next time. In essence, I have replenished F2 right before use. When I do the next roll, I'll replenish it again. So, the 1-2-Fix method is a continuously replenished system.

Now on the virtues of traditional two-bath fixation - it is a method to correct a deficiency in traditional one-bath fixation, where with one bath you use the bath until it is nearly exhausted, then you dump it and prepare fresh. That last roll you processed just before exhaustion is not fixed as well as the first roll done in a fresh bath. It might be fixed "well enough" but still not fixed the same, since the bath nearing exhaustion has elevated silver levels and lower thiosulfate levels. The rules of chemical equilibria govern how well the undeveloped silver will react, and if the silver concentration is high and thiosulfate low, you just can't form the soluble silver-thiosulfate complexes as well under those conditions as you can in fresh fixer. How "well" each roll is fixed will therefore continually vary through the life of the bath, from fresh to nearly exhausted. You typically know when to dump the fixer bath by determining if it is nearing exhaustion, either by keeping track of the number of rolls processed, or by doing clip tests. If you go by keeping track of rolls processed, that can sometimes be inaccurate, since each roll of film is not exactly the same in the load of undeveloped silver deposited in the fixer. The silver burden per roll depends on many things - the film type, length of roll, and how much of each frame has been exposed by light to a latent image that is developed to metallic silver. Sometimes you may process several rolls in succession that each deposit a heavier than average load of silver in the fixer, and that bath may exhaust faster than average. Many times people don't keep good track, and just fix until they see a roll where the fixing appears inadequate at the end. Then they need to mix a fresh bath and re-fix that roll. Or, you can do clip tests for every roll, and discard the fixer when the clearing time has increased to 2X the clearing time of fresh fixer. Of course, different types of film clear at different rates in the same fixer, so even this method is not totally accurate. You'll often see posts in this forum and others where people have been "surprised" when their fixer has "unexpectedly" failed. Usually the folks that do clip tests are not surprised, but it can happen.

If you split the fixing into two baths, the first bath does most of the work, and the second stays mostly like "fresh" fixer with low silver levels and high thiosulfate levels. You fix for 1X to 1.5X the clearing time in each bath. Some folks fix for 2X clearing time in each bath. Then, when the first bath is near exhaustion, you dump it, advance the second bath to become the first bath, and make a fresh second bath. In this way, most of the sliver (90-99%) is removed in the first bath, and the second is there to insure two things. First, it provides very high concentrations of thiosulfate and very low levels of dissolved silver, so that it can really drive the formation of the desired silver complexes. This is necessary to fix to archival (i.e., very low residual silver ) quality. Second, if you miss predicting the exhaustion of the first bath, the second provides an insurance policy and "cleans up" your error by completing the fixation anyway. Overall this provides quite consistent and complete fixation from roll to roll. The 1-2-Fix system shares this advantage. The differences brought to two-bath technique with 1-2-Fix are: the first bath is very dilute and is used only once; the replenishment or "replacement" of the second bath is done continuously, a little bit at a time on every roll; the fixing time is longer than in traditional one or two bath methods, because of the more dilute fixer; and you don't have to monitor for exhaustion, either by tracking or by clip testing. I suppose a further difference of 1-2-Fix vs. normal two-bath is that, since 1-2-Fix dumps that first bath after each roll, I never have much silver building up in the system, neither in the first bath nor the second. So the whole fixer system stays much "cleaner", which is good for the chemical equilibria of the reactions. This factor also means much less dissolved silver can be carried over (i.e., adhering to the film and tank surfaces) from bath 1 to bath 2, so less silver contamination into bath 2 can occur than in traditional two-bath technique.

This is the key part of the link I'm providing below, which is an excellent presentation on two-bath fixation, and on fixation in general. "The only way to ensure that little silver bromide (AgBr) or the insoluble first complex is left in the paper, is to use fresh fixer with little accumulated silver and halide, and an excess of non-complexed free thiosulfate to remove it. This approach to archival fixing when used with one fixer bath is fairly wasteful, though effective. Rather than using one fixer bath, the same results can be obtained with two baths, and the capacity of the fixer is far greater. Essentially, the first bath removes the bulk of the silver and halide, and leaves traces of silver halides and the first insoluble complex in the emulsion and paper. The amount when carried over to a second fixer bath is insignificant in comparison to the amount of free thiosulfate, so the second bath always acts as "fresh" fixer with high non-complexed thiosulfate levels to react with the small amounts of silver halide and less soluble complexes to speed their complete removal from the emulsion."

I'm not sure about the statement that the capacity of two-bath fixation is better than single bath. As far as I can see, they are about the same, although perhaps you can push your capacity with two-bath more to the full capacity of the chemistry with better assurance of good results with two baths. But otherwise I agree with what is stated in the article.

https://www.photo.net/discuss/threads/why-two-step-fixing-is-a-really-good-thing.93389/

Thanks very much for your comments! - Richard.
 
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oldche

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Dear colleagues: In searching for information on determining exhaustion of fixer baths, I found this interesting old Kodak publication, giving a "hypo-check" formula and instructions on how to use it for checking a two-bath fixing system, in addition to checking a single-bath fixer. I was thinking I could probably develop a quantitative chemistry method variation of this, you are basically using a potassium iodide reagent to precipitate silver iodide. If I filtered and weighed the resulting solution filter paper, I could measure the weight of the AgI precipitate, and therefore get a quantitative measure of the silver concentration in the solution. In fact, I'm pretty sure I did this same technique in chemistry lab all those many years ago. I might have to adjust the concentration of reagent used, to make sure I get a precipitate at low silver levels. What would be necessary to standardize the technique would be to make a series of standard solutions of known silver concentration (probably by diluting silver nitrate solutions to different strengths) and then do the technique on these standard solutions. I'd then plot the measured mass of AgI collected from each sample against the know concentration of silver in each sample, and I can use that calibration curve to estimate the silver concentration in an unknown sample from the measured mass of precipitate. I'll have to check if the balance I use to mix developer formulas is sensitive enough for this.

FIXER TEST SOLUTION, FT-1
Preparing the Solution
Use a clean, dry mixing vessel to prepare the solution.
1. Start with 750 mL of water at 78°F (26°C).
2. Add 190 g of potassium iodide.
3. Add water to make 1.0 litre.
Testing the Fixing Bath Single-Bath Fixer
To 5 drops of Fixer Test Solution, FT-1, add five drops of the
fixing bath and five drops of water. If a yellow-white
precipitate forms instantly, discard the fixer. Disregard any
slight milkiness.
Two-Bath Fixer. Test the baths separately as follows:
First Bath: Test as described above for a single-bath fixer.
Second Bath: To five drops of Fixer Test Solution, FT-1, add
five drops of the fixing bath and 15 drops of water. If both
tests produce a yellow-white precipitate, replace both baths
with fresh solution. If only the first bath forms a precipitate,
replace the first bath with the second, and replace the second
bath with a fresh bath.

from: "Black-and-White Tips and Techniques for Darkroom Enthusiasts" Kodak Publication O-3, 2002.
http://www.sagradapelicula.com/sites/default/files/docs/diversos/kodak-truques-e-dicas.pdf
 
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oldche

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Richard,

Kodak's FT-1 is likely exactly the same as the Hypo-Check product you referred to earlier. I don't think it is going to be nearly sensitive enough for real testing of your workflow.

And, I'll be a wet blanket again here too: I realize your desire to use fixer one-shot. I do essentially the same thing. I'm just not as economical as you. I think my way is simpler.

If I only have, say six sheet of film to develop, then I'll mix 600ml of fixer (Ilford Hypam or Rapid Fixer) at the 1+9 dilution and use that two-bath (300ml per 5x7 tray being the minimum volume I like to work with) and fixing for at least a total of 3x the clearing time. Usually, I just fix for three minutes in each bath, for a total of six minutes (I like longer film fixing times; film's not paper and the base doesn't absorb fixer. A bit more time in the fix harms nothing).

Yes, that 600ml of fixer would have fixed more film, but unless I have more, I'll just discard it.

If I have more film to develop, I'll use the fixer to capacity. Even more film, I'll increase the volume to 1000ml total at 1+9 dilution. More film that that? I'll switch to the 1+4 dilution and use two-bath fixing, swapping out bath one with bath two when the capacity of bath one has been reached. I'll do this for as many cycles as I have film. I have a table that I've made up that tells me which amount of fixer I need to mix, and at what dilution (1+9 or 1+4) for the amount of film I have to develop in a "session" (the session might be two or three days of developing when I have lots of film to process).

Regardless of how much film I have to develop, from six (or fewer) sheets to 100 or more, all fixer is discarded at the end of a developing session. I never store a working solution of fixer for future use.

Best,

Doremus
 
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cliveh

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You fix in one bath. Job done. End of story.
 
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