Separate bleach and fixer. Nicely done JOBO. But I call BS on "40 rolls" capacity claim on just 2.5L of C41 developer. This is so annoying... if you going to market a product with a wild capacity disparity with Z-131 (JOBO says 40, Kodak says 8-10 depending on speed) please provide an explanation.
Where did you find that "made in Japan"?
This is not to Kodak-standard, but as brbo just explained it yields well-usable results.
I notice for the E6 kit it says : If used as one-shot developer the kit will yield 20 film rolls to be processed in impeccable quality, even though the E-6 chemistry can be used for up to 40 rolls of film before being utterly depletedSeparate bleach and fixer. Nicely done JOBO. But I call BS on "40 rolls" capacity claim on just 2.5L of C41 developer. This is so annoying... if you going to market a product with a wild capacity disparity with Z-131 (JOBO says 40, Kodak says 8-10 depending on speed) please provide an explanation.
@Craig I have relaxed regarding the overstated capacity claims lately. I realized that most people scan their film which means the raw scans are fed into automatic color inversion tools like NLP that perform far more invasive manipulations with color than a partially exhausted developer would. Essentially you'll get more or less the same image out of NLP regardless whether you're working with roll #1 or roll #40.
But... I am rarely happy with the default output of NLP, and plenty of folks here would agree. So I have no choice but to invert manually, and this is where minor deviations from the spec become really noticeable (and really annoying). Having acquired a color densitometer and a box of control strips, I started to notice how much easier it is to hand-invert negatives that were developed right on the money, i.e. within action limits. And needless to say that hand-inverting negatives outside of action limits is harder, and if you're outside of control limits it's a nightmare.
TLDR: reusing developer is fine if you're OK with auto-color.
But it also leaves a question with very different assumed answers by us: what is considered good results for colour negatives? If judged solely by final images regardless of workflow, then yes, a Jobo/Ilford C-41 2.5L kit likely could give you that even at 40 rolls as they claim.
Most folks these days who are shooting colour film and using DIY C-41 are doing so not for absolute colour fidelity and accuracy, but for the less than accurate colour that film always had. They certainly do not care if it is not 100% correct with control strips and their ilk.
Not to mention that any colour shifts due to temp variations or chemistry fatigue can easily be corrected if desired with digital manipulation before it heads to the inkjet
I've found it easy to get 40 rolls from a 2.5 litre kit, and probably could have kept going for a while longer if I wished.
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