New Darkroom, Old Trays.

pbromaghin · Nov 12, 2020

In the final stages of preparation for doing my first darkroom prints, details keep popping up at the last minute. The original plan was to process 4x5 HDPP and 5x7 RC in an Ilfochrome tube, but have since realized how much easier and convenient trays would be, especially because I found trays just for those sizes.

I have combined bits from 3 different full darkroom kits, including a whole bunch of trays in a range of sizes and condition. Very few of these trays are marked as to what step they were used for. I will certainly label them for my continued use, but when picking out the cleanest looking ones to use, 1)how concerned do I really have to be about residue from their prior use? 2)What precautions, if any, are needed to make sure they will be alright at the different steps along the process?

Thanks!

Donald Qualls · Nov 12, 2020

I wouldn't worry about residue. A good wash with hot water and dish detergent (Dawn, for instance) and a thorough rinse and you can use whichever tray for whatever solution. The only possible exception to this would be selenium toner (is it?) or dichromate reversal bleach (a good soak in sodium sulfite solution before the wash would be good here).

mshchem · Nov 12, 2020

I'm with Donald on this. Don't let it stop you. New Paterson trays are really affordable in 8x10, you might consider that at some point. The Mr. Clean Magic Eraser sponges that are sold, work great without harsh chemicals. In the old days people used chromic acid tray cleaners. Very nasty stuff, very nasty.

MattKing · Nov 12, 2020

I don't dedicate trays to a particular use. I just make sure that trays are cleaned with a hot water rinse and a scrub with a rag after each session.
As a result, a tray may be used for developer one session, stop bath the next, fixer the next, and back to developer again the next.
I've never seen any problems.
I do pretty normal stuff, including some toning. The toning trays may get a bit more rigorous scrub - I'm not sure.
I also am comfortable running cleaned and scrubbed trays through a dishwasher - without rinse aid.
If you want to start dedicating trays in the future, I would suggest that the developer tray is the one to do it with. It is the most difficult to keep from staining anyways.

pbromaghin · Nov 12, 2020

[QUOTE="mshchem, post: 2342564, member: 23192"New Paterson trays are really affordable in 8x10, you might consider that at some point.[/QUOTE]

Imagining the look on my wife's face when I walk in the door with anything new that I already own at least a couple dozen of....

Donald Qualls · Nov 12, 2020

"But honey, it's no different from you buying new towels" is not an acceptable reply in that case...

pbromaghin · Nov 12, 2020

Oh, you know this woman!

Paul Howell · Nov 12, 2020

You can buy specific cleaner used for minilabs, works on trays.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/prod..._600015541_envirochem_photolab_cleaner_1l.htm

bsdunek · Nov 12, 2020

Agree that the trays can be cleaned up, so, I wouldn't worry about that. I do label mine for developer, stop and fix using DYMO labels. Work great and seem to last a long time. Besides, think how "experienced" you'll look having well used trays.

grainyvision · Nov 12, 2020

I've heard dichromate is the best cleaner for darkroom trays, but that's only if you have some just laying around! Otherwise, I've mixed trays before with no problem. Some are stained and near impossible to clean. My fixer trays are very obviously fixer because of the dried nearly insoluble but very stuck powder around the edges. It does come out with patience, scrubbing, and hot water, but is a real pain.

The only thing I'd recommend doing is mixing up a batch of farmer's reducer and using that on all the trays, then doing regular cleaning. Silver scum (looks like grey powder. Can be rubbed off under running water, but won't come off without scrubbing) may be left behind and this may affect toners and cause stains on your prints. For gold toner specifically, you'll literally be throwing gold away. The farmers reducer will make that silver soluble and it'll be carried away by the solution. Dispose of like you would fixer, but avoid strong acids due to the ferricyanide

mshchem · Nov 12, 2020

Rule #1 never leave anything sit in trays. Clean up everything immediately. If you don't want water spots on your nice shiny equipment dry them off with a towel.

When I stain or wear out a t-shirt. I haven't lost a shirt I've gained a rag! My Dad was a fanatic about cleaning up and putting everything away.

99% of normal darkroom chemistry won't stain a modern tray as long as you wash up afterwards.

I still have a bottle of the old formula Kodak Developer System cleaner. It's like magic on black tar like stains, but it doesn't really clean off silver. Again this stuff is a nasty and I very rarely use it. You can make your own with potassium dichromate and conc sulfuric acid. Get cancer, dissolve your hands, and get lung damage all at once .

Michel Hardy-Vallée · Nov 12, 2020

A 10% solution of Sodium Carbonate (washing soda, get the cheapest kind you can find in stores on on the internet), can help cleaning up some stains. I like it especially for plastic bottles when I'm reusing them for a different chemical.

After that, good old water and some scrubbing is enough for most purposes.

cmacd123 · Nov 12, 2020

the trays that look silvery in the bottom, are the developer tray

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