New Darkroom Design suggestions request

CCLA

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Hello everybody,

I just started getting back to Film Photography a few months ago and I am in the process of planning a darkroom. The attached image shows the design I have come with. The reason for this post is to ask for suggestions and/or improvements from people with much more experience that I have.

The size of the room will be 8’ x 9’6”. I think the layout of the room is fairly standard. The only unusual item is the rotary processor placement. In order to fit a 7’ sink, I would put the processor on a moving platform that can move back and forth. This would give me at least partial access to the front of the last foot of the sink when the processor is pushed back to the wall. I just am not sure if that would be useful of more of a hindrance.

I have been going through the Darkroom Portraits thread to get some ideas but I would welcome any suggestions for improvement.

I will start out with 35mm negatives but in the future I hope to move to medium format. On a related subject, the Beseler enlarger that I have came without a lens. Any suggestions on a good lens for 35mm negatives?

thank you

Claudio

 

ic-racer

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I keep my CPP-2 dry and under the sink. I only bring it up and fill it when not doing prints. I fill it with tempered water from my thermo-valve, so it is ready to go immediately. Storing it dry eliminates problems with mold and algae in the water bath.
 
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CCLA

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Hi ic-racer,

the more I think about it the more it makes sense to store the processor under the top surface. I would gain a lot of space when the processor is not there and it makes the surface top easier to clean and to build. Besides I would not gain much by having the processor always on top of the counter.

In addition, I see that you have a water filter in addition to the thermo-valve. I do have a thermo-valve, but I have been debating if I should have a water filter as well? A couple of questions: Most filter I see have one for hot and one for cold water, why is this? Are they different in any way?. I think your way of doing it (filter the mixed water) is better as you would have only one filter. Do you have any suggestions on which filter to use?

claudio
 

paul ron

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I like having my trays right behind me when using the enlarger too. Expose, turn n in she's goes. Less walking that way.

Paper safes are right by the enlarger. my collection of carriers hang on the wall n lenses on a small shelf directly behind my enlarger. View box shouldn't be very far away either so loading a neg is right there. I find there's never enough counter by my enlarger.

I see you have an exhaust but how about a fresh air feed? Cooling as well, so summer won't be so brutal?

Best bargain 50mm is the el nikor 2.8 for around $50

http://www.nikon.com/about/feelnikon/recollections/r15_e/

This is a good bargain

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/used/44387/?gclid=CJjupKXiicsCFVVbhgod9bQJSw

50mm I bought used on Apug for $150 years ago.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/con...LficsCFZaQHwodjKwI-w&Q=&ap=y&is=USA&A=details

Watch the classifieds!
 
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MattKing

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I don't see a surface usable for paper cutting.
 

Sirius Glass

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I do not see room for the drum print dryer that you know you will get.
 

jeffreyg

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I suggest removable panels to fit over the sink. That will give you more counter top space when not using the sink. Also storage space under the enlargers and sink. Perhaps a lift-up extension next to the Beseler enlarger for paper etc while doing an enlarging session. Two cold water faucets --- one for a print or film washer and one for cleanup while washing. A water filter for the wash faucet.

http://www.jeffreyglasser.com/
 

ParkerSmithPhoto

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I would suggest just having one enlarger. As a previous reply mentioned, you will need space next to the enlarger for paper cutting and safes.

Overall this is a pretty attractive layout. However, the 2' clearance is extremely tight between dry and wet.

Be sure to build in plenty of storage underneath for trays, easels, etc. You will need it.
 
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CCLA

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Hi Paul,

I would agree with you that the paper would be best located closest to the enlarger, and I would store it below the enlarger. Thank you for the tip for carriers and lenses. As with regards to the workflow I would mostly use the Jobo for processing and (without starting a war as with regards to print development) I would process the print right to left in the sink, so my process would start almost behind the enlarger. I see I did not leave enough space for a view box, but perhaps I could place it on the enlarger base when needed?

As for the fresh air intake you are right I did not think of it. I think I will place it on the same wall as the exhaust. As for Air Conditioning, the darkroom will be in my basement which is always cool even in the summer. If the temperature gets too hot, I was planning on a small floor air conditioner I could put under one of the counters with an exhaust out to the basement.
As for the lens, I think I just got the el-nikkor from the classified!!! Its all about timing.

Thank you for your time and suggestions.

claudio

 
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CCLA

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Jeffrey,

great, great suggestions. I particularly like the idea of the lift-up extension! I was thinking of placing three faucets over the sink. For the water filter, as I said in a reply above, I was thinking of placing the filter after the thermo-valve and before all of the faucets. Are you suggesting that only the final wash faucet should be filtered? Do you have a suggestion as a good water filter?

claudio

 
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CCLA

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Parker,

the idea of a single enlarger is also a good one. It is probably not likely that I will use two enlargers in a single session. As with regards to the space between the wet and dry side, if needed I could push the depth of the room by a foot or so. I will give it some thought.

claudio

 
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CCLA

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Another question is about counter height. I was thinking to have the wet side to be at 36" and the dry side to be at 42" to be better able to work on the easel either standing or on a stool? Any suggestions?

claudio
 

Luis-F-S

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CCLA said:
Sirius Glass, I was not planning on using a drum print dryer, but print drying screens under the sink. claudio
Click to expand...

Does your drying cabinet not have room for drying screens? I know mine does. Also, put the air intake on the wall opposite from the exhaust, or in the door if necessary. That way you get fresh air flowing across the room and work area. Put an A/C filter register on the outside opposite the intake louver for dust control.

If possible, move the wall by 6", that will give you 3' between the enlargers and the sink.

As many storage cabinets/shelves as you can fit. This is what I wish my darkroom had more of.

I like having two enlargers, you can always use the baseboard for one as a work area when printing on the other.

The top of my sink is at 38", the dry side cabinet that the 4x5 enlarger sits on is at 40.5". This is largely dependent on your height and what's comfortable. I'm 5'-8" and these heights work for me. The 810 enlarger has a movable table that allows me to sit when I print.

I have a single filter on the water line before it splits and goes to both the water heater and the cold taps. Depending on the quality of your water, you may not need one. When I feed the darkroom on well water, it filters out all kinds of gunk. If I feed it "city" potable water, you don't see any filtered particles. Typically, you would put the filter before the control valve to keep the gunk out of it. The "hot" side filters & housing are different to account for the high temperature. You may not even need them, but can read about them and the Haas Manuf website: http://www.hassmfg.com/
 
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Luis-F-S

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A few other things. More electrical outlets. They will disappear when working and you can never have too many. A white light with switch near the sink for print viewing. An outlet in the ceiling for a Thomas Duplex safelight. I also have a dummy outlet behind the enlargers next to the timers which feeds an outlet further up the wall for a safelight. That way, I feed from my timer safelight to the dummy outlet (double male plugs on a short cord) and this feeds the upper outlet that the safelight is plugged to. That way, there are no long cords hanging up the wall from the safelight to the timer.

It's nice to have a switch to turn each circuit on and off. I use the breaker switch for the enlargers circuits that way I shut them off when not in use and don't have to worry about lighting strikes killing any of the electronics. You can also put in a wall switch for the enlarger outlets. I have both of my enlargers plugged into a 13 amp surge suppressors just in case.....and of course GFCI circuits for all the outlets.

A variable speed dimmer for the exhaust fan. A base cabinet to the right of the sink at the same level for a print washer or processor. Great sink BTW, I wish mine were the size of yours. I have a 24" x 6' Leedal sink & stand I bought at Helix in Chicago some 30 years ago!

Also, the single most useful item in my darkroom is my Intellifaucet (K250) mixing valve. I would never be without one again, it's the only accurate mixing valve I have used. I have 4 mixed water outlets over my sink in addition to a hot/cold water faucet.

Any newer 50 mm lens will work fine. I'd get an 80 mm Rodagon for the Beseler and use the Focomat for 35mm. I use a 105 Rodagon or 80 ApoR to print 35mm on my 8x10 enlarger. I don't think I've used a 50mm for 135 in about 20 plus years!

A dedicated electrical circuit for the enlargers, and another for anything that has a large power draw. I have one circuit for my smaller enlargers and a dedicated 20 amp circuit for the 810 DeVere. I have a separate circuit for the chiller and the print drying cabinet. I can't run the chiller and the heater in the print drying cabinet at the same time, but I'm always finished washing before I dry. I don't ever use the heater element in the PDC anyway. With the separate circuits, I don't worry about power fluctuations when I'm printing and something comes on.
 
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CCLA

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Wow Luis,

a lot of great suggestions in your posts. I think I will need some time to digest the whole thing!! The dummy outlets for the safelight are brilliant!

claudio
 
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Ken Nadvornick

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Regarding ventilation, here's another possible solution.

In my darkroom I installed matched industrial blower fans for both input and exhaust, both directly connected to air from outside the house. I connected both to the same fan speed controller. That way the input and output velocities are always in sync. The incoming air is also double-filtered using spun fiberglass furnace filtering material.

If there is only an exhaust fan, then every time you open the darkroom door the negative pressure will suck in potentially dusty air. And if there is only an input fan, then the positive pressure will solve the dusty air problem, but will also force any of those wonderful darkroom smells out into the house, where others may not find them so wonderful.

By having matched active input/output fans the air in the room can be replaced continuously while maintaining a neutral pressure. No dust in from the house, no smells out to the house.

I am fortunate in that for 10 months out of each year my climate provides an inexhaustible supply of cool outside air that I can take advantage of while the darkroom is sealed up and light tight.

Ken
 

Sirius Glass

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Drying racks cannot raise the electric bill as well as a print dryer can.
 

Luis-F-S

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Ken Nadvornick said:
Regarding ventilation, here's another possible solution:

By having matched active input/output fans the air in the room can be replaced continuously while maintaining a neutral pressure. No dust in from the house, no smells out to the house.

Ken
Click to expand...

Very good suggestions. I have an AC filtered air return register on both the air intake and on the AC duct into the room in order to try and catch as much dust as possible. L
 
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CCLA

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Hi Ken,

aren't the industrial blowers noisy? Then again I suppose any fan would be noisy. I was planning to have the exhaust fan go outside the house, but the intake be from the basement. We do get hot weather in Central Jersey so I would not want to have hot air coming into the room.
The negative pressure is also something I had not thought of and a good reason to have an intake to offset the pressure from the exhaust fan. I will give some thought to have a fan on the air inlet side as well.

claudio

 
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