New Darkroom Build Advice

[Derek Lofgreen]

Hello Photrio faithful,
It has been a long, long time since I have participated in the forums. I have made two job changes and moved three times since I was really able to focus on my photography. Now that I am settled into a groove and my new (very old) house is up to standards I am able to build out my new darkroom.

I have a small windowless space in my basement that is roughly 6 feet by 20 feet. I am able to install plumbing and any type of wiring needed. My thoughts are to build a custom sink (plywood/epoxy) to fit the space and then the usual bench for the enlarger etc. I have worked in several community and educational darkrooms as well as my old home darkroom, so I know what I need. My plan is for B/W silver printing and toning. I would like to print as big as I can fit into the space, perhaps with tubes instead of trays?

What I am hoping for is any practical advice on things like sink depth, layout, electrical set up. Sort of the "I wish I would have done..." from you all that have set up a darkroom in the past.

Thanks in advance,
D.

 

[Truzi]

People far more knowledgeable than I will give great advice (and I don't yet have a darkroom), so my advice is electrical outlets... lots of them. All the GFI and useful height stuff aside, you never know when you will want to rearrange your space, so outlets every few feet will give you that flexibility as your darkroom evolves.

 

[Sirius Glass]

People far more knowledgeable than I will give great advice (and I don't yet have a darkroom), so my advice is electrical outlets... lots of them. All the GFI and useful height stuff aside, you never know when you will want to rearrange your space, so outlets every few feet will give you that flexibility as your darkroom evolves.

What he said, you cannot have enough.

 

[Renato Tonelli]

It sounds like you have enough space to lay out very large trays, 20x24, maybe bigger. How big would you like to print?
Don’t forget ventilation.

 

[Derek Lofgreen]

I have ventilation sorted but could use a recommendation on a good quiet vent fan if anyone knows of one. The last one I had was almost too loud to use.

 

[Valerie]

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Panason...with-Flex-Z-Fast-Bracket-FV-0811RQ1/307885045
I just installed this over my sink a few weeks ago. So quiet I don't even realize its on!

 

[grahamp]

If you are building your sink you have the luxury of getting the bottom height and sides to suit yourself. Think about what tray height will avoid bending in your normal mode of work (stand or sit). You might want to consider a deeper section for cleaning equipment, depending on what you use.

 

[jeffreyg]

When building your sink consider enough depth so accidental splashes won't end up on you or the floor. Also a backsplash and a back ledge the same height as the front. Make plain "covers" that rest on the ledge and front and are easily removed / placed. That will increase your countertop when its not used as a sink. Consider the type of print washer you will use and accommodate for it. Storage under the sink is also useful.

http://www.jeffreyglasser.com/

http://www.sculptureandphotography.com/

 

[Doremus Scudder]

A few suggestions based on my recent darkroom build.

Separate switches for white lights and safelights. I have a separate circuit of outlets placed high up on all four walls (two along the longer walls, you might want three or four in your long darkroom) for the safelights. I've got both bullet safelights mounted above the enlarger counter at strategic locations as well as some white lights on pull switches plus ceiling-mounted Kodak D safelights (bounced off the white ceiling) and a string or two of red LEDs with rubylith covers all on the "safelight switch."

Four-receptacle grounded outlets for each enlarger station at above-counter height, plus outlets for everything else, floor and wall level. You'll want to plug in your vacuum cleaner, radio, timers, etc.

When you plan your sink, spend some time figuring out the most comfortable height for the sink bottom in relation to the front splash guard, on which you'll be resting your arms. Getting this right, and getting the right curved piece (or cushion) for the top of the front splash will make a lot of difference later.

I didn't have room for a separate deep sink when I build my darkroom, and I miss it. It's nice to have one for dumping chemicals, mixing, washing hands, getting a bucket of hot water, etc.

I designed my sink so that I could cover the top with pieces of countertop. When all four sections are installed, I have a 10-foot by 40-inch counter to work on, which I use for mounting, framing, etc.

Make sure you don't plan cabinets over where you plan to keep your print washer, or make sure that you have enough room to easily insert and remove prints if you do (don't ask how I know...).

Figure out the largest print you will ever want to make and make sure you have enough sink space for all the trays, washer, etc. When building your enlarger stand, think about building a drop table for larger prints.

It's nice to have a bit of counter space next to the sink for mixing chemicals, etc. with a cabinet above.

If you're going to build a long sink, spend some time thinking about draining and drain placement. If you follow the half-inch-drop-per-foot rule, and you place your drain at one end you'll end up with a significant height difference for the sink bottom from one end to the other. Two separate sinks or a sink with a drain in the middle (like mine) may be better.

I made over-sink air exhaust using a length of PVC pipe with holes drilled into it. At 10 feet, this needs quite a bit of fan, so do spend time finding a quiet one. For make-up air, I have 12-inch-square light-proof vents in two walls (90° from each other). These are built into the wall framing and have vents on the outside and 12"-square filters installed in framed boxes between. So, when I start the fan, I'm drawing filtered air in from outside the darkroom.

Plan your sink plumbing and mount it all on a piece of plywood behind the sink. That way, you could move the whole thing if you like, or easily reconfigure if needed.

Hot and cold water filters down to 5 microns.

I really like my master water shut-off ball valves. I have one for hot and cold on the wall behind the sink. I can turn them off when not working and be absolutely sure nothing is going to fail. Plus, it's really nice to turn them off when changing filters, etc.

I dedicated a wall at one end of my darkroom for print viewing. There is a large magnetic white board with lots of magnetic clips for hanging prints and track lighting for viewing lights. I like track lighting over the sink as well as some general white light in the middle of the ceiling.

Black walls or boards behind the enlargers are nice, but I'd recommend easy-wipe bright white on smooth walls for the rest of the darkroom. Great for bouncing safelights and cheery and bright for print viewing.

Under-sink storage for trays, etc. is important.

Have fun designing!

Doremus

 

[MattKing]

Include multiple faucets or the ability to attach hoses - this allows you to have a production line with multiple rinse trays for things like multiple bath toning.
I like pull cords for a light above the print examination area.
A circuit that controls your safelights from the safelight outlet on your timer allows you to automatically have no safelight illumination during dodging and burning portions of the exposure.
Separate safelight illumination for each enlarger and the tray and paper handling areas, plus the necessary light baffles, can ease simultaneous use by more than one photographer.

 

[Renato Tonelli]

A few suggestions based on my recent darkroom build.

Separate switches for white lights and safelights. I have a separate circuit of outlets placed high up on all four walls (two along the longer walls, you might want three or four in your long darkroom) for the safelights. I've got both bullet safelights mounted above the enlarger counter at strategic locations as well as some white lights on pull switches plus ceiling-mounted Kodak D safelights (bounced off the white ceiling) and a string or two of red LEDs with rubylith covers all on the "safelight switch."

Four-receptacle grounded outlets for each enlarger station at above-counter height, plus outlets for everything else, floor and wall level. You'll want to plug in your vacuum cleaner, radio, timers, etc.

When you plan your sink, spend some time figuring out the most comfortable height for the sink bottom in relation to the front splash guard, on which you'll be resting your arms. Getting this right, and getting the right curved piece (or cushion) for the top of the front splash will make a lot of difference later.

I didn't have room for a separate deep sink when I build my darkroom, and I miss it. It's nice to have one for dumping chemicals, mixing, washing hands, getting a bucket of hot water, etc.

I designed my sink so that I could cover the top with pieces of countertop. When all four sections are installed, I have a 10-foot by 40-inch counter to work on, which I use for mounting, framing, etc.

Make sure you don't plan cabinets over where you plan to keep your print washer, or make sure that you have enough room to easily insert and remove prints if you do (don't ask how I know...).

Figure out the largest print you will ever want to make and make sure you have enough sink space for all the trays, washer, etc. When building your enlarger stand, think about building a drop table for larger prints.

It's nice to have a bit of counter space next to the sink for mixing chemicals, etc. with a cabinet above.

If you're going to build a long sink, spend some time thinking about draining and drain placement. If you follow the half-inch-drop-per-foot rule, and you place your drain at one end you'll end up with a significant height difference for the sink bottom from one end to the other. Two separate sinks or a sink with a drain in the middle (like mine) may be better.

I made over-sink air exhaust using a length of PVC pipe with holes drilled into it. At 10 feet, this needs quite a bit of fan, so do spend time finding a quiet one. For make-up air, I have 12-inch-square light-proof vents in two walls (90° from each other). These are built into the wall framing and have vents on the outside and 12"-square filters installed in framed boxes between. So, when I start the fan, I'm drawing filtered air in from outside the darkroom.

Plan your sink plumbing and mount it all on a piece of plywood behind the sink. That way, you could move the whole thing if you like, or easily reconfigure if needed.

Hot and cold water filters down to 5 microns.

I really like my master water shut-off ball valves. I have one for hot and cold on the wall behind the sink. I can turn them off when not working and be absolutely sure nothing is going to fail. Plus, it's really nice to turn them off when changing filters, etc.

I dedicated a wall at one end of my darkroom for print viewing. There is a large magnetic white board with lots of magnetic clips for hanging prints and track lighting for viewing lights. I like track lighting over the sink as well as some general white light in the middle of the ceiling.

Black walls or boards behind the enlargers are nice, but I'd recommend easy-wipe bright white on smooth walls for the rest of the darkroom. Great for bouncing safelights and cheery and bright for print viewing.

Under-sink storage for trays, etc. is important.

Have fun designing!

Doremus

I second the suggestions made by Doremus; they are well-thought out and based on experience.
I started building my new darkroom in Jan 2019 and it’s mostly the way I intended it to be. Some compromises had to be made because it was a bedroom.
I attached a plywood panel (in two pieces) on the wall behind the sink; all of the plumbing is attached to it and its designed to be removed with a minimum of effort if need be.
My biggest problem was the ventilation which I finally sorted out only recently..

The darkroom needs to be a comfortable and pleasant place to work in; take your time planning it and building it.

 

[Derek Lofgreen]

Wow these are some great practical pieces of info!

@Valerie - Thanks for the link! I will probably use that one since it seems super quiet.

@Doremus Scudder - Some great nuggets of advice there! I love the plumbing ideas and the sink info. You have done more electrical than I have anticipated, so I will think on that some more too.

@MattKing - Do you have a faucet to recommend? I was planning on getting one faucet and maybe a hand sprayer... but I am planning on a faucet that I can attach a hose to.

Any other input from others is welcome!

Thanks,
D.

 

[MattKing]

@MattKing - Do you have a faucet to recommend? I was planning on getting one faucet and maybe a hand sprayer... but I am planning on a faucet that I can attach a hose to.

Ideally, you would feed all this with a temperature controlled faucet.
An expensive but apparently wonderful option would be a Hass Intellifaucet.
http://www.hassmfg.com/search.pl/1641100397-81034?keyword=1093

 

[jeffreyg]

I am on well water so I have inline cartridge filters. Look at bar faucets. They have long necks that will sit well above the sink and having one with an attached hose comes in handy for rinsing trays etc

http://www.jeffreyglasser.com/

http://wwwsculptureandphotography.com/

 

[Doremus Scudder]

...

@Doremus Scudder - Some great nuggets of advice there! I love the plumbing ideas and the sink info. You have done more electrical than I have anticipated, so I will think on that some more too.

@MattKing - Do you have a faucet to recommend? I was planning on getting one faucet and maybe a hand sprayer... but I am planning on a faucet that I can attach a hose to.

Any other input from others is welcome!

Thanks,
D.

Derek,

I neglected to mention one thing electrical. Since I convert my sink to a countertop/workspace for mounting, etc., I installed two GFI outlets on the back wall on a separate 20A circuit. These end up being above the countertop and I can power my dry-mounting press, etc. with them. I also use them for developing timers and an air filter (that sits on the shelf above the sink). One has a switch wired into the box for the exhaust fan I mentioned earlier.

About faucets: You need more than you think. I have a regular hot/cold utility-style faucet mounted at one end of the sink (on a small shelf over the sink, high enough that I can get my three-gallon bucket under it); it has a regular garden-hose threaded connector. I also have a tempering unit with a hose spigot plus a line that runs the length of the sink with four ball-valve spigots and hose connections (just nipples) for tempered water. That makes six access points for water along the length of the sink. I still run out every now and then . My sprayer is just a kitchen-type sprayer mounted on a 1/2" ID hose that attaches easily to one of the hose connections.

The Haas Intellifaucet is a wonderful piece of equipment, but I just have a shower-type temperature control valve plumbed together with a thermometer well and a couple of ball valves to control the feed. I have to adjust it whenever I change the flow rate much, but it holds temperature well otherwise.

If I had things to do over again, I'd add a dedicated water heater for the darkroom. I missed my chance, but have a high enough hot water capacity with the regular household water heater that I don't have to worry.

Best,

Doremus

 

[craigclu]

I see you're in Minnesota.... My nearby (northern Wisconsin) basement darkroom gets quite chilly and I've been getting by with a portable electric oil heater but will likely re-think that issue in an upcoming darkroom update/expansion. Much of the chemistry I use is temperature sensitive for activity levels and certain things even crystalize in storage there. I plan to insulate in my next iteration and as mentioned by others, add many outlets. I have a wine cellar corner of my basement and I just checked and it's 57ºF right now, mid-winter. If you're not experienced in northern climate winters, respect that mass of frozen earth around you!

 

[Derek Lofgreen]

@MattKing - Holy smokes, that is not a cheap faucet. I get the importance and reason it costs what it does, but I think I will have to learn how to live without it for now. Thanks for the link!

@jeffreyg - I do have pretty hard water, no telling what else the water is like so I am planning on some sort of filtration. Does good filtration help with water spots on film? I have always used distilled water for my film dev and still seem to get water spots now and then. Thanks for the bar tending faucet idea.

@Doremus Scudder - I have the ability to add three circuits but hope to get by with two. Thanks for the detail on the faucet set up and additional electrical set up you have.

@craigclu - You bring up a very good point. I am in Minnesota and it is very cold here in the winter (just like WI I am sure) and my space is in the basement. It does get pretty chilly down there when the outside temps are anything below 0. Is there any suggestions on what is the best way to heat a basement darkroom? Two of the walls are foundation (dirt on the other side) and two are interior walls. I don't think putting a heat duct in would be wise, as I am trying to keep dust at a minimum. Thoughts?

Thanks all,
Derek

 

[jeffreyg]

Derek
I use distilled water for developer and photoflo. When you change a cartridge filter you will see what's in the water. You won't want that on your prints..Get a decent size filter that takes different cartridges. I use ones that filter iron and very small particles. Aqua-Pure AP110 from 3M

Jeff

 

[Sirius Glass]

@MattKing - Holy smokes, that is not a cheap faucet. I get the importance and reason it costs what it does, but I think I will have to learn how to live without it for now. Thanks for the link!

@jeffreyg - I do have pretty hard water, no telling what else the water is like so I am planning on some sort of filtration. Does good filtration help with water spots on film? I have always used distilled water for my film dev and still seem to get water spots now and then. Thanks for the bar tending faucet idea.

@Doremus Scudder - I have the ability to add three circuits but hope to get by with two. Thanks for the detail on the faucet set up and additional electrical set up you have.

@craigclu - You bring up a very good point. I am in Minnesota and it is very cold here in the winter (just like WI I am sure) and my space is in the basement. It does get pretty chilly down there when the outside temps are anything below 0. Is there any suggestions on what is the best way to heat a basement darkroom? Two of the walls are foundation (dirt on the other side) and two are interior walls. I don't think putting a heat duct in would be wise, as I am trying to keep dust at a minimum. Thoughts?

Thanks all,
Derek

Just think warm as the man did in Jack London's To Build a Fire.

 

[koraks]

Consider wiring your white darkroom light to a remote control (optionally red/amber as well). For me, this was sort of an epiphany. It's really convenient to have the remote on you and being able to switch between red and normal light (and perhaps full darkness, e.g. for focusing) without having to walk to one particular spot where the switch happens to be.
Remote control gizmos with a small array of relays and a remote thingy cost virtually nothing these days and work a charm.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Consider wiring your white darkroom light to a remote control (optionally red/amber as well). For me, this was sort of an epiphany. It's really convenient to have the remote on you and being able to switch between red and normal light (and perhaps full darkness, e.g. for focusing) without having to walk to one particular spot where the switch happens to be.
Remote control gizmos with a small array of relays and a remote thingy cost virtually nothing these days and work a charm.

I keep a small safe light flash light next to the enlarger to check that I stepped down the aperture and switched the enlarge bulb to a dimmer setting before starting to expose the paper after checking the focus or borders.

 

[Kino]

Consider wiring your white darkroom light to a remote control (optionally red/amber as well). For me, this was sort of an epiphany. It's really convenient to have the remote on you and being able to switch between red and normal light (and perhaps full darkness, e.g. for focusing) without having to walk to one particular spot where the switch happens to be.
Remote control gizmos with a small array of relays and a remote thingy cost virtually nothing these days and work a charm.

+1

I have a wireless switch in my darkroom that controls my white lights. One is near the door to turn on the lights when I enter and one is higher than shoulder height on the wall next to the enlarger, so I don't accidentally bump it and ruin a session. It's very nice to have the control near the enlarger, just across from the sink, so I don't have to wander over to the door every time I need white light.

 

[Derek Lofgreen]

The remote switch for white lights is a great idea. All of this is great information really. I have been able to update my plan with a lot of these already.

D.

 

[mshchem]

I bought a case of cheap plastic LED flashlights. I have them all over the house. I keep 10 or 12 in my darkroom. I have them in a couple small boxes in a couple places. Easy to find in the dark. These were $1.50 ea,