New C-1 Owner w questions

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gbenaim

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Hi All,

Just got my new C-1 home and was playing w it. WHat's the right way to fold it down to carry? I can get the bellows almost fully compressed, but the rail sticks out the back. Is there a simple way to fold the rail, or by removing the extension rail do I gain anything in packability? I thought I could use it without the extension rail, but am not sure. How do you C-1 users pack your green monsters?
Also, what's the right way to lubricate the focus mechanism? TIA<

GB
 

juan

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I've never lubricated anything on mine.

The rail doesn't normally remove. There's a part of the rail that extends back - pull that back far enough to clear the camera bed, then unscrew the bolt with the handle that's in the center of the rail - the rail folds up to cover the ground glass. There are photos here.
juan
 
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gbenaim

gbenaim

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John,

Thanks, that's agood start. In addition to unscrewing the bolt that holds the rails together, I also had to take the focusing mechanism out of the rails, and then loosen the screw that hold the rear rail at the hinge. Does that sound right to you so far? If so, how then do you secure the camera/lock it down tight for transport?
I should mention that mine came in three pieces, the extension rail was separate, so I'm not sure the hinges for the rear rail are attached properly to the rail. If you could send me a picture of your folded camera w the hinge screws showig, that'd be really helpful. Thanks again,

GB
 

juan

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I've never been able to get my to fold securely. Some folks have figured out how to do that, I suppose. I put a piece of masonite over the ground glass to help protect it, then run a short bungiee cord from the top of the rail, across the front of the camera to the camera base. That holds everything securely.

I don't have photo of mine, and no digital camera. Maybe someone else has a shot of it folded.
juan
 

phfitz

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GB,

"Thanks, that's agood start. In addition to unscrewing the bolt that holds the rails together, I also had to take the focusing mechanism out of the rails, and then loosen the screw that hold the rear rail at the hinge. Does that sound right to you so far? If so, how then do you secure the camera/lock it down tight for transport?"

At the middle of the rail where it hinges there should be 2 SS spring clips that engage the side screws on the rail. Just lift them and rotate them out of the way to fold and unfold the rail, then rotate them back into place to lock onto the side screws in both open and closed position.

The rear focus bed has 2 studs that stick out of the front. These fit into 2 sockets in the front bed and are locked in place with 2 thumb screws on the underside. If you follow juans link, the single photo at mid-page will show it fairly well.
 

eddie gunks

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How do you all transport these cameras?

by car! har har har!

i have not taken it afield yet. if i go far i will use my dana designs pack. it is big and made for very heavy loads. it will swallow the camera a film holders easily. it carries 35KG well so i figure this monster will be no problem.

eddie
 

TheFlyingCamera

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I used to carry mine by the handle when I went somewhere with it. I got tired of the bruises on my legs (got 'em on both legs because I'd switch sides periodically to balance out the stress on my shoulders from carrying the damn thing), so I sold mine off and got a Zone VI Ultralight, which weighs about six pounds less, and fits inside a nice soft-sided cooler along with eight or so film holders and my darkcloth.
 

juan

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I carry mine in an oversized gym bag I found on sale at Kmart. The bag goes onto a jogging stroller - it fits right into the area where the baby would normally go. Probably heavier than the baby, though.
juan
 

Captain_joe6

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I carry mine in an oversized gym bag I found on sale at Kmart. The bag goes onto a jogging stroller - it fits right into the area where the baby would normally go. Probably heavier than the baby, though.
juan

Well, with the obesity problem these days...


Actually, I'm a newcomer to the C-1 as well, and here's what I've picked up about folding, storage, and transport:

If you feel like you're forcing anything, you've done something wrong.

When you go to fold up the camera, loosen all the adjustments except the swings/shifts, then, once its folded, use the front rise/fall adjustment to straighten things out, THEN lock everything down. Reverse for unpacking.

The pegs on the front of the focusing assemblies go in holes on the front standard and are secured by screws. Already been said. However, mind those screws, because to get the pegs out, the screws have to come out almost all the way and would be very easy to loose.

Even when everything is exactly as it should be, the rear rail will still be somewhat loose and will slap against the bail on the back. Secure it with whatever you need.

Jose in the parts department at Calumet is about the nicest person you could ever want to deal with.


And as far as a case is concerned, check out this thread over at LargeFormatPhotography.info

Cheers and welcome!
 
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gbenaim

gbenaim

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If I loosen the screw holding the guide rails to the rear standard, the it runs much more easily, so it's not a dirt problem, but rather it seems there's too much friction when the screws are fully tightened. Do they have to be fully tightened, or do they function as resistance regulators? The locking screws are free, BTW.
 

Captain_joe6

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Just so we're all clear on everything, the focus locking screws are the metal ones (about an inch across) right behind the focusing knobs, like an inch and a half back? Should be two of them, one on each side, pointing upward. Then there are the extension bed locking screws, these have plastic grips, and there is one on each side of the rear bed pointing outward. Finally, there is the single rear frame locking screw that is made of brass, has a plastic grip, and points straight backwards. Its the one that secures the rear bed to the front frame and standard.

In order to focus, the focus locking screws need, obviously, to be loose.

The rear frame locking screw should be good and tight any time the camera is unfolded into working position. Make sure there isn't any grit or anything between the surfaces that this screw clamps together, as they could potentially throw something out of alignment.

The extension bed locking screws should also be tightened whenever you aren't actually moving the bed in or out. The bed can also be completely removed from the camera, and reinserted in either direction. Try inserting it both ways, because for some reason my camera only focuses smoothly with the bed inserted one way, but not the other. Yours might share the same kink.

Also be warned that the focus locking screws cause a very slight tilt to the rear standard. You can really only see it one the bubble levels, but its there.

These cameras are pretty darned easy to take apart. What I suggest you do is slowly disassemble each component of the camera, one at a time, clean everything really well and rub all the sliding surfaces with medium and fine steel wool. Then, reassemble and move on to the next section of the camera. Worked wonders for mine.
 
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