I thought maybe when they say 'square' they mean not round as in the fisheye 110 camera. The Orca and Color Tiger films are pre-exposed to the 13X17 rectangular format.
Aaarrggghhhh!
Why this insanity?
Possibly because the images come out with a white border, "à la Polaroid", even though the printer doesn't set the machine for the border?
That also require a certain precision in aligning the white stripes with the actual frame made by the camera. A recipe for problem (supposing that for somebody using a Diana a problem really is a problem).
Traditional 110 films were pre-exposed between frames, a feature intended to make it easier and more efficient for photofinishers to print: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/110_film
Whether new 110 films such as the Lomography or Fukkatsu releases have similar pre-exposures I have no idea. Kinda doubt it.
I like getting those extra couple of mm's in my Pentax auto 110 using non-perf 16mm film slit from 35mm.
It matters. If the film is divided with pre-exposed boundaries that means that the already tiny market for 127 film is to be divided according to the camera you own. You have to buy 127 "for the square format 13x13" or 127 "for the standard format 13x17". And if you own a 127 camera which uses the 13x19 format, you have to find yet another different film. All this really is industrially insane.
Since roll film was invented the sensitive surface is continuous and is the camera which uses the roll freely.
Apart from format ratio, could someone explain to me the difference between a Lomo camera and a brownie 127?
Sigh.
The biggest problem I have with Lomo cameras in general aren't the plastic build quality or optical quality or anything like that. For what they are, they're fine. I like the funky square formats and vignetting and all of that.
No, my biggest gripe is exposure control. Almost all of the Lomos, with the exception of the LC-A, you only get one shutter speed and one f-stop, plus bulb. Maybe two f-stops on a better camera. That's it. For what C-41 processing is costing these days, blowing shots because of bad exposure is simply a waste. I'd rather be saving money by shooting a cellphone camera app, even a digital point and shoot.
And don't give me that excuse about color film and its wide latitude. I want the look of a Lomo lens but want to control highlight and shadow exposure.
I've been meaning to do a series of tests with my Lomo and figure out how to use ND filters and fast film to get accurate exposures with a handheld meter, in place of variable apertures and shutter speeds.
I know - maybe it's along the lines of "polishing a turd," but for what film and processing costs, the least we should expect is a decent exposure from a Lomo, especially if you plan on scanning to digital.
Instead of all the colorful new camera models they come out with all the time, how about a real f-stop ring? I'd even be willing to pay a bit more. That's why I haven't purchased any new Lomo cameras in the last few years, you just don't have any exposure control.
<End rant mode.>
~Joe
What you need then is a simple plastic lens that will mount on a good quality camera. Lots of the large format folks are using simple plastic meniscus lenses with really interesting results. Shouldn't be too hard to cobble something together inside the gutted barrel of and old lens.
Brownie 127 gave darned nice pictures. Those cameras served a generation or two of American families (and other markets as well).
The main limitation was fixed focus, shutter speed and aperture that meant most people used them only in daylight or with flash bulbs.
Many of the models had glass lenses.
You can find old 127 Brownie photos posted on Flickr and see that the results were not crappy, like Lomo, at all.
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