I realise cyan has no effect on B&W paper, I just want to use all three to increase exposure times. Thinking about it a bit more, maybe I should just use cyan because it has no effect on B&W paper. The thinking behind using all three is that they, in equal amounts, would just add density with the actual contrast filtration being done by the below lens filters.In the case of Black and White the cyan component is unnecessary and will just make it harder to see your print. A Cyan filter has no effect on Black and White paper. Also I am unconvinced that each of yellow or magenta units is equal in all machines and some observation of your results vis a vis contrast will be in order.
The above works with color. Someone please explain how unaltered blue and green with the cyan filter will affect b&w paper.
Exactly the same.
This actually doesn't make a difference, except in one quite indirect way.Do you have a longer lens available? Would allow you to raise the enlarger head.
That's an interesting question and makes me wonder just what it is that analysers measure, But I do know that the Zonemaster does respond to red light as well as blue and green, for example safe lights need to be off. That said I don't think you can ever be sure what a minus stop of Yellow and Magenta would do with analysers without testing. Note that in many enlargers the maximum number for the two filters is different and so the effect is unlikely to be one to one unit by unit.I feel for markbau. He seems to be getting irreconcilable statements here. There has to be right and wrong answer about whether C is needed to balance and/or add ND to both Y and M based on the science of what these filters do to affect ND and thus increase exposure time for B&W paper
I had thought and this is purely based on what I have seen in previous replies on this subject that an equal amount of all three filters( I think 30 units was mentioned ) add about one stop of exposure. So if markbau is getting 5 secs he now gets 10for dodging and burning but the print looks the same..
There would seem to be consensus or close to consensus that Y and M in equal amounts will add ND. It then remains to be seen if adding the same amount of C will make any difference. Can I take it that cowanw and RPC are saying that C does nothing at all to exposure of B&W paper even if it does make the projection look darker. Leave C at zero or make C 100 will have no effect on the resultant print. The paper but not our eyes is blind to C
So presumably the problem with erroneously using C( as RPC and cowanw contend) becomes particularly important if using an analyser in that the print projection will look darker and "fool" the analyser to "recommend" an exposure that will render the print too dark. i.e. 30Y and 30M will, say, double the exposure but produce the right print but 30 C added on will fool the analyser to suggest more than double but this will be a mistake that leads to too dark a print?
Have I got this right?
pentaxuser
The cyan filter attenuates red light. In a perfect world, with perfect cyan filters, and variable contrast paper that has absolutely no red sensitivity, adjusting the cyan filter would have no effect on exposure.
We don't live in a perfect world.
So I recommend using all three filters, even though the cyan filter should have very little effect.
For panchromatic materials, you need to add equal amounts of magenta, cyan and yellow filtration to reduce exposure.
For non-panchromatic materials, that have no red sensitivity, the effect of adjusting the cyan filter should be very small.
By the way, we are assuming here that the settings on your magenta and yellow (and cyan) filter dials accurately adjust the amount of magenta and yellow (and cyan) filtration in a linear way. If they don't, making equal changes will have an effect on contrast as well.
The above works with color. Someone please explain how unaltered blue and green with the cyan filter will affect b&w paper.
As for yellow and magenta, increasing the yellow filter will block more blue. Increasing the magenta filter will block more green. Increasing both equally will block the blue and green equally, which is the same effect as closing down the aperture.
Even if equal values?
if equal settings indeed create equal filtration.I have to make some postcard size prints and I'm finding the exposure times to be ridiculously short, less than 5 seconds which isn't enough for burning and dodging. I can't stop my lens down any more due to diffraction. I'm using Ilford below lens filters. If I added equal amounts of Y, M and C that would extend my exposure times but does anyone see any problems with this?
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