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Neopan400 in BTTB developer

idamia

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The Barry Thornton Two Bath developer is my main soup since some time.
(there was a url link here which no longer exists) I reported on my first tries with superpan 200.

Yesterday I developed my last roll of Neopan 400 (35mm) in BTTW. As usual I'm quite pleased with the results (concerning grain, sharpness and contrast).

All shots taken with my trusty OM2 and the Zuiko Auto-S 50mm F1.4





 

TheToadMen

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Looking very good. I still have a stash of Neopan 400 film, but haven't tried the BTTB developer yet. Want to though.
BTW: I have a Bronica SQ-b myself. Don't you love these camera and lenses?
 
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idamia

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Yes. A great cam!
Mine is a SQ (without A or B).
I have the 80mm Zenzanon PS and the 150mm Zenzanon S. Both are great.

I can strongly recommend BTTB developer.
 

TheToadMen

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idamia said:
Yes. A great cam!
Mine is a SQ (without A or B).
I have the 80mm Zenzanon PS and the 150mm Zenzanon S. Both are great.

I can strongly recommend BTTB developer.
Click to expand...

I have got his book (still reading) and will try BTTB developer. Do you make your own or do you buy it ready?

The Bronica SQ was the first model:
"Introduced August 1980 as replacement and successor to Bronica's classic and increasingly bulky Nikkor-lens based cameras, production discontinued September 1984." After that came the other models: SQ-A, SQ-Am, SQ-Ai and SQ-B (Basic). The last models SQ-Ai and SQ-B were discontinued in December 2003. I bought my SQ-B kit (with 80 mm) new in 2003, so I guess it was one of the last.
About 2 years ago I got me the 40 mm lens for Bronica SQ. This is a beautiful lens!! Here are some examples:

(Ilford FP4+ in Caffenol-CM)
 

baachitraka

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BTTB is neither a good nor a bad developer. Bath B is not doing any miracles to the contrast and nobody is sure what really happens to Bath B when Bath A carried during development.

Single bath is more secure and that said nothing really beats it yet apart from x-tol.
 
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idamia

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@TheToadMen: I mix it myself.

@baachitraka Surely, there is nothing miraculous about BTTB, but it works perfectly fine for me. For my films and digitizing process, the results are slightly superior to ID11/D76. And it costs me almost nothing...
 

ParkerSmithPhoto

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I've been using Barry Thornton's Two Bath developer off and on for years, and I've discovered a few things through experimentation:
  1. Temperature variations WILL change the density of the negative. I run all mine at 25 degrees C with a water bath, every time. It may not be as sensitive to temperature as other developers, but it's enough that it's worth attending to.
  2. Changes in agitation will also change the density. Again, keep it consistent.
  3. The A bath is pretty beefy stuff. I ran a test strip for 6 min in the A bath alone and it was very dense.
  4. My standard is 3 min A + 4 min B. Agitate first 15 seconds, then 5 seconds at the top of every minute. Dump out the A and pour in the B, agitate 5 seconds, then let it stand until the two minute mark. Agitate 2 seconds, then let it stand until the time ends.
  5. Agitating in the B bath only adds density to the highlights. By using BTZS tests, I found that 4 minutes in B is optimum for both shadow and highlight density. Extending the time in the B Bath will only add density in the highlights. And, contrary to popular opinion, they will continue to develop. The stand develop in B helps to control this somewhat. If you agitate too much, the highlights will keep on going.
  6. I have also tested the "B-Minus" Bath with only 7g Sodium Metaborate and, although I haven't run the numbers yet, it appears as though they are very close to the standard Normal Bath (12g Sodium Metaborate). I'm not a photo chemist but it seems like once you pass a certain point, the extra SM doesn't do much. Still need to confirm this with the numbers.
  7. I've used the 3A+4B at 25 degrees C with all of the major Ilford and Kodak films and I can't seem to make a negative that I can't print without too much trouble.
  8. This stuff costs pennies per roll to use.
 

baachitraka

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Replenished D-76 costs close to nothing.

*Replenished D-23 is an alternative. I gave up two-bath stuff a while ago since second bath is no the same after few rolls.
 
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